kunkernator
Well-known member
Alright guys, after reading another member's post regarding a guy on eBay making, and selling cheap emissions leak detectors for under $150, I decided to make one!
The idea is to create a simple, cheap smoke machine for UNDER $50. That way, all my fellow members can make one of their own (with their own improvements).
This is my first "how to" write up, so bear with me. If anyone points out anything I forgot, I will add it in. Feedback is great, and share your improvements too. I have had a lot of improvements in mind, but wanted to keep it basic for the "how to".
First, let me inform the less educated, what this tool is intended to do.....
An emissions leak detector is designed to fill your vehicles evaporative emissions system with a harmless smoke, which will then find its way out of the system thru any leak points. It can also be extremely useful in diagnosing exhaust system leaks, as the same principal applies.
Why can you not just use a normal "theater" smoke machine?
Well, these use a water based smoke fluid, which can be harmful to your evaporative system. An automotive smoke machine uses an oil based fluid (in this case, mineral oil), which may leave a residue, but is harmless.
Let's get started with a parts list. I have included prices, which are rounded to whole dollars, to give an idea of final price. ALL of these items can be found at Home Depot, Amazon, and Radio Shack.
1 Gallon Paint Can- $5
10 feet 3/8'' clear tubing or vacuum hose- $5
Battery clamps with wire leads- $10
2x brass drain bushings (3/4'' outside, 1/2'' inside)- $5/piece
Fuse holder/10A fuse- $5
Vacuum hose reducer (fits various sizes)- $3
3/8'' brass ******- $3
3/8'' brass elbow- $5
1/2'' to 3/8'' brass reducer- $4
1/2'' to 3/8'' brass ******- $3
1/2'' to 3/8'' plastic elbow ******- $2
1/4'' brass ball valve- $8
1/4'' male air hose fitting- $2
Alligator clips- $1
Various heat shrink- $1
Binding posts- $5
24g Nichrome wire- $6
1psi propane regulator- $10
Fiberglass wick- $1
4x 1/4'' flat washers- $1 (not shown)
2x 1/4'' rubber washers- $1 (not shown)
2x small spade terminals- $1 (not shown)
Now, some general tools you will need;
Soldering iron and solder
Step drill bit that reaches 7/8''
Wire strippers/crimpers
Drill
Drill bit set
Pipe sealant/teflon tape
2 adjustable wrenches
Sharpie
(the silicone is not used, rubber washers are used instead.)
And for the smoke fluid, I used UV dye and baby oil (100% mineral oil).
The UV dye will assist in finding leaks. Just make sure you use a type that will mix with oil (A/C dye).
Now lets start!
First to build, is the air inlet.
Gather up the following fittings and parts.
And now we will mock them up as such.
Now cement them together. Pay attention to how the regulator is clocked.
The air inlet assembly allows you to connect an air source, and then allows you to turn it on and off at demand.
Now, lets build the smoke outlet.
Gather the following parts.
And assemble them as such.
Your clear hose, will serve as the discharge hose and connect to the plastic elbow.
Next, lets make the inlet/outlet assembly.
Mark two spots on the lid of the paint can, roughly 1'' in on each side.
Drill a 1/4'' pilot hole in each spot, then continue with your step drill bit and enlarge the holes to 7/8''. Debur with the same bit on the inside and outside.
Attach your inlet and outlet to the lid as such, with the rubber washer on the outside.
Now take a small piece of your clear tubing, cut approx 4'' long.
And attach it to your assembly. This tube directs inlet air to the bottom of the can, thus pushing your smoke up and out.
Now, we will start with the electrical assembly. Put your lid aside.
Mark two spots on the paint can, roughly two inches from the bottom, and then one inch from each other.
Drill out two 1/4'' holes where you marked. Install the binding posts with a hard washer and rubber washer on the outside, and a hard washer on the inside (not shown).
Crimp an alligator clip on the inside of each binding post.
Gather your battery lead/wire, and your fuse holder. Trim and strip the wires as such.
Solder the fuse holder to your leads. REMEMBER to put your shrink wrap on first!
Shrink the heatshrink on the wires. I added a smaller large piece of heatshrink to hold the wires together.
Now, crimp on two spade terminals, and put your 10A fuse in the holder.
You can now connect the wires to the binding posts, and tighten them down.
To make the smoke element, you will need a short length of Nichrome wire, and a 3'' piece of fiberglass wick. Assemble as such.
Attach the wick inside to the alligator clips like so. Ensure the bottom of the wick is touching the bottom of the can.
Soak the wick in mineral oil (baby oil), and fill the can up approx. 1/2'' (add UV dye if you desire)
Seal the can lid on, then attach the remainder of your clear tubing to the outlet, and put the vacuum tube adapter on the end.
You are now done!
How do you use it?
Connect air to the inlet, and turn on. Then connect your battery leads to a 12v supply (car battery) within seconds, you will start to see smoke pushing out of the hose. You can use different adapters to adapt the machine to your specific needs.
How does it work?
The Nichrome wire acts as a heating element, and "burns" the mineral oil. It produces smoke.
SAFETY NOTE
The Nichrome wire DOES get very hot, red hot. Do not touch it while it is energized. If your wick goes dry, it will catch fire. Check your fluid level often to prevent this. I am not responsible if your hurt yourself or damage property.
The idea is to create a simple, cheap smoke machine for UNDER $50. That way, all my fellow members can make one of their own (with their own improvements).
This is my first "how to" write up, so bear with me. If anyone points out anything I forgot, I will add it in. Feedback is great, and share your improvements too. I have had a lot of improvements in mind, but wanted to keep it basic for the "how to".
First, let me inform the less educated, what this tool is intended to do.....
An emissions leak detector is designed to fill your vehicles evaporative emissions system with a harmless smoke, which will then find its way out of the system thru any leak points. It can also be extremely useful in diagnosing exhaust system leaks, as the same principal applies.
Why can you not just use a normal "theater" smoke machine?
Well, these use a water based smoke fluid, which can be harmful to your evaporative system. An automotive smoke machine uses an oil based fluid (in this case, mineral oil), which may leave a residue, but is harmless.
Let's get started with a parts list. I have included prices, which are rounded to whole dollars, to give an idea of final price. ALL of these items can be found at Home Depot, Amazon, and Radio Shack.
1 Gallon Paint Can- $5
10 feet 3/8'' clear tubing or vacuum hose- $5
Battery clamps with wire leads- $10
2x brass drain bushings (3/4'' outside, 1/2'' inside)- $5/piece
Fuse holder/10A fuse- $5
Vacuum hose reducer (fits various sizes)- $3
3/8'' brass ******- $3
3/8'' brass elbow- $5
1/2'' to 3/8'' brass reducer- $4
1/2'' to 3/8'' brass ******- $3
1/2'' to 3/8'' plastic elbow ******- $2
1/4'' brass ball valve- $8
1/4'' male air hose fitting- $2
Alligator clips- $1
Various heat shrink- $1
Binding posts- $5
24g Nichrome wire- $6
1psi propane regulator- $10
Fiberglass wick- $1
4x 1/4'' flat washers- $1 (not shown)
2x 1/4'' rubber washers- $1 (not shown)
2x small spade terminals- $1 (not shown)
Now, some general tools you will need;
Soldering iron and solder
Step drill bit that reaches 7/8''
Wire strippers/crimpers
Drill
Drill bit set
Pipe sealant/teflon tape
2 adjustable wrenches
Sharpie
(the silicone is not used, rubber washers are used instead.)
And for the smoke fluid, I used UV dye and baby oil (100% mineral oil).
The UV dye will assist in finding leaks. Just make sure you use a type that will mix with oil (A/C dye).
Now lets start!
First to build, is the air inlet.
Gather up the following fittings and parts.
And now we will mock them up as such.
Now cement them together. Pay attention to how the regulator is clocked.
The air inlet assembly allows you to connect an air source, and then allows you to turn it on and off at demand.
Now, lets build the smoke outlet.
Gather the following parts.
And assemble them as such.
Your clear hose, will serve as the discharge hose and connect to the plastic elbow.
Next, lets make the inlet/outlet assembly.
Mark two spots on the lid of the paint can, roughly 1'' in on each side.
Drill a 1/4'' pilot hole in each spot, then continue with your step drill bit and enlarge the holes to 7/8''. Debur with the same bit on the inside and outside.
Attach your inlet and outlet to the lid as such, with the rubber washer on the outside.
Now take a small piece of your clear tubing, cut approx 4'' long.
And attach it to your assembly. This tube directs inlet air to the bottom of the can, thus pushing your smoke up and out.
Now, we will start with the electrical assembly. Put your lid aside.
Mark two spots on the paint can, roughly two inches from the bottom, and then one inch from each other.
Drill out two 1/4'' holes where you marked. Install the binding posts with a hard washer and rubber washer on the outside, and a hard washer on the inside (not shown).
Crimp an alligator clip on the inside of each binding post.
Gather your battery lead/wire, and your fuse holder. Trim and strip the wires as such.
Solder the fuse holder to your leads. REMEMBER to put your shrink wrap on first!
Shrink the heatshrink on the wires. I added a smaller large piece of heatshrink to hold the wires together.
Now, crimp on two spade terminals, and put your 10A fuse in the holder.
You can now connect the wires to the binding posts, and tighten them down.
To make the smoke element, you will need a short length of Nichrome wire, and a 3'' piece of fiberglass wick. Assemble as such.
Attach the wick inside to the alligator clips like so. Ensure the bottom of the wick is touching the bottom of the can.
Soak the wick in mineral oil (baby oil), and fill the can up approx. 1/2'' (add UV dye if you desire)
Seal the can lid on, then attach the remainder of your clear tubing to the outlet, and put the vacuum tube adapter on the end.
You are now done!
How do you use it?
Connect air to the inlet, and turn on. Then connect your battery leads to a 12v supply (car battery) within seconds, you will start to see smoke pushing out of the hose. You can use different adapters to adapt the machine to your specific needs.
How does it work?
The Nichrome wire acts as a heating element, and "burns" the mineral oil. It produces smoke.
SAFETY NOTE
The Nichrome wire DOES get very hot, red hot. Do not touch it while it is energized. If your wick goes dry, it will catch fire. Check your fluid level often to prevent this. I am not responsible if your hurt yourself or damage property.
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