How to build cabinet base?

[catch2otwo]

So its a little off topic but i figured if anyone knows, GJ will. Im trying to finish my kitchen island. Its three ikea cabinets in a row. I've been scratching my head as to how to build a base for it. It is on a tile floor. Im not well versed in wood working so I am not sure how to build a base in a way that it wont look like i just make a 2x6 box. Do I need to secure it to the floor? What about gaps from the grout lines? Out of my element on this project.

 

[markietas]

I take it these cabinets were not originally intended as floor standing cabinets?

I would think about building a 2x6 base to actually support the cabinets and lay tile about 1/4 to 1/2 inch away and then get a nicer quality baseboard styled to match your cabinets and nail that to the 2x6s. That will overhang and hide the edge of the tile.

And you definitely need to secure the base to the floor, I would just screw the 2x6s down to the sub floor.

This is all assuming that the tile hasn't been laid yet.

Also, recess the base so that the cabinets overhang it some.

 

[harleybear66]

bring all three cabinets into the kitchen and remove the doors and drawers from them.

c-clamp them together flush at the doors openings and screw them together with 1 1/4 coarse thread drywall screws. you need this done first so you can get an exact length of the base.

roll the assembly over upside down- rip down your 2x6's to match the toe kick height of your other cabinets if any-build your base and fasten to the bottom of the assembly

after building the base figure out your location and cut 2 2x4's to fit inside the base on the long sides

grab a masonry bit and drill some 1/4 holes through the grout and screw the 2x4's down to the subfloor-roll the assembly over and drop it over the 2x4's

screw through the base into the cleats to fasten the assembly

 

[rburke65]

I have grout lines....gaps....under my baseboards in my kitchen....and the problem is......? You can face the 2x6s with some sort of base board.

 

[catch2otwo]

the tiles have already been laid. The house is on a concrete slab. The reason I asked about gaps in the grout lines is I didn't know what standard practice is for stuff like this. So it seems my idea of a 2x6 base and then trim nailed to it will work. I've been sucking on the fit and finish of my wood working, so i guess this will be more practice.

The cabinets are ok for an island according to ikea. They sell a "base" but its pretty pathetic looking.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I have grout lines....gaps....under my baseboards in my kitchen....and the problem is......? You can face the 2x6s with some sort of base board.

You cn buy some premade toe kick, that you cut to length. Failing that, a 4x8 sheet of Masonite, cut to size and painted flat black (or gloss, your choice) should suffice

 

[BSTON]

I recently did my kitchen with IKEA cabinets. I'm not a huge fan of the toe kick that they sell. I felt like the ends are a little cheap looking and the height is finicky. They sell full height end panels to use for the sides of fridges and pantry cabinets. I cut one of those up to use as a toe kick instead on some cabinets that my inept contractor set too high. The panel like this could possibly work for the back of the cabinets but the wood grain would be the incorrect direction (if you're using a wood finish). Keep in mind that these panels are also particle board so you want to seal the cut edges that will be along the floor. I just put a thin layer of silicone along mine.

As far as the grout lines going under and leaving a slight gap, I wouldn't worry about it. It's one of those things that you'll just never notice. I'll try to snap a picture of mine in the morning if I remember.

Also, with the suggestion above, you probably wouldn't use the adjustable feet and just attach the cabinets to the wood frame.

 

[Kaizen]

Harley's description above is right on with the exception of the drywall screws. get pan head cabinet screws. they work so much better.
I'd make the toekick frame 3/4 inch smaller and then add 3/4 solid lumber on the outside. this is where your finish woodworking comes into play. rip the bottom of the solid lumber at a angle so the part touching the floor is only 1/8 inch thick. lay it on the floor and if its not perfect enough scribe it to the floor and cut off the wood to make a perfect fit. imo its better to use a single piece and just scribe to the tiles if the floor isn't perfectly level. use some caulking in the grout lines where it hits the base.

 

[bullnerd]

Yeah, basically what Harley and Kaizen said.
Tons of vids on YT.
Heres a very basic one just for visual. Turn the sound off and skip to 2:00, pics are good enough to give you the idea.

Also, you could just level a base of 2x4s and screw them down, set cab on top and trim around the bottom.

 

[jetnow1]

If the grout line gaps bother you check for color matched caulk, probably need caulk at
the base anyway.