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How to build up mower drive shaft?

m32825

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My kid brought me a self-propelled mower drive shaft and he wants to know if the worn area can be built back up. It's a .50" shaft and the worn place is .45" diameter. I told him I didn't know but I'd ask the experts. I have a stick/tig welder, what do you think?

-- Carl
 

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The Cobbler

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what does the shaft do? what's the other end look like? maybe someone can make you a new one . maybe the part is available?
weld up is one option but it then needs to be turned down, might be easier to fab a new one
 
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m32825

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The part is readily available for about $40. My son repairs lawn equipment and sees this happen with the drive axle quite a bit; the effect of Florida sand. He is thinking of this as a proof of concept, as the same thing happens to much more expensive axles.
 

MoonRise

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Can one build up the worn section via welding?

Usually, Yes. But not always.

But is it economically viable to do so? Welding time, welding materials, lathe machining time after welding all add up. What labor rate and overhead rate are you running?

For $40 to replace the entire shaft, my really rough estimate would be that you would have to do the ENTIRE weld-and-remachine job in less than a half hour elapsed for it to even be close to economically a 'good' choice to do that task.

That half hour includes all the welding set-up time and all the lather set-up time.

psst, do not weld round-n-round if doing a shaft build-up repair. Run a weld bead length-wise, then rotate the shaft and run another weld bead length-wise, repeat until the shaft is built up as desired. Don't turn the shaft into a banana, or you then have to add in more time and effort to try and straighten out the now bent shaft.

Also watch out that some shafting is made with 'free machining' steel (either leaded or has sulfur or phosphorous in it). Those materials are NOT weldable.
 

treeview

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Three simple ways:

Epoxy/steel

Wraps of shim stock

LocTite makes a product that fills gaps like that
 

txvwnut

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Forty bucks for a new part is a lot less than the total time spent to either weld and machine back to spec or even fill with an epoxy type of material and bring back to spec. If this was some obsolete part then a build and machine would be the answer.

What does the other end of the shaft look like? if its just roll pin holes and no keyway slots then get some 1/2" cold rolled bar and make as many as you want for less than forty bucks.
 

The Cobbler

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IMO, you'd be hard pressed to get any reasonable repair or replacement for under $40. even for someone with all the equipment to do it on their own it would be somewhat time consuming .
 

laser3kw

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The hole is for the floating drive pin that engages the one way drive pawl. I would be concerned with not getting thee shaft concentric and the hole back on center. That would keep the drive from functioning.
spend the $40 or shop on Ebay for a good used one.
 

dr_clyde

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That's a $75 dollar repair in my shop for a simple build up and turn down. But I wouldn't. Not for $40, that's cheap.

If I had to make a new shaft, I'd probably be at $150 labor + materials. Depending on that snap ring groove size, I may have to grind a tool, that could add a couple bucks too.

Sometimes you can't fix stuff for less than the cost of a new part. Most guys forget to charge themselves labor on stuff like this. Unless you REALLY like fixing old lawn mower parts, there is an opportunity cost on DIY repairs. Would you rather be fixing your mower or sitting beside the pool drinking a cocktail/ tinkering on your hot rod? Your time is worth money, even if you're not charging anyone other than yourself.
 
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txvwnut

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My brother gave me an edger that he picked up at a garage sale for three bucks. I put some gas in it ripped the cord and that antique fired right up. Tried the to edge the sidewalk and I found out why was three bucks. The blade spindle was bad, I had some round stock a lathe and a mill so off I set to make a new one. Bout an hour later I had a new shaft made with key slots and threads, after a trip to the bearing house I figured I was into this three buck edger for about hundy maybe a little more if this was a paying job.
 

pamike

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I agree its cheaper to buy new, however if you wanted to repair that I would tig weld it. make a bead, then rotate shaft and make a bead on the other side. The goal is to distribute the heat evenly so that the shaft doesn't warp. Weld the entire thing up then turn it down. Pretty simple.
 

Kevin54

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My kid brought me a self-propelled mower drive shaft and he wants to know if the worn area can be built back up. It's a .50" shaft and the worn place is .45" diameter. I told him I didn't know but I'd ask the experts. I have a stick/tig welder, what do you think?

-- Carl

What's the complete shaft look like and how long is it?
 

Dumber than lumber

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My brother gave me an edger that he picked up at a garage sale for three bucks. I put some gas in it ripped the cord and that antique fired right up. Tried the to edge the sidewalk and I found out why was three bucks. The blade spindle was bad, I had some round stock a lathe and a mill so off I set to make a new one. Bout an hour later I had a new shaft made with key slots and threads, after a trip to the bearing house I figured I was into this three buck edger for about hundy maybe a little more if this was a paying job.

We have a Sears edger from the early ‘80s that was given to us. We had the spindle go bad, and the pulley. I took old spindle and new pulley to a machine shop and had new one made. This was after the brass shim wouldn’t help enough.
 

gearhead1

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I agree that it’s sometimes cheaper just to get the part. It depends on perspective and what you want to do. If you want the kid to learn something, I would clean it up squeaky clean then wipe clean with acetone, then build up with epoxy putty. If the dia is small enough to get in a drill, you can spin in with a drill and use emory cloth to sand it down. Sometimes the learning experience is worth the time.
 
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