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How to clean greasy undercarriage

glentre

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May 21, 2016
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909
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Gloucester, Virginia
My new to me 1935 Packard has an original factory Bijur oiling system. This is a vacuum operated oil reservoir mounted on the engine fire wall that, using small copper tubing, automatically oils the spring shackles and the clutch/brake pedal linkages and cross shaft. The result is that when the car gets up to speed with the system operating, these drops of oil spread over everything under the car including the entire frame. With no regular cleaning over the years, layer after layer of road dirt has combined with this oil to form a semi-rigid layer of crud under the car, all covered with a fresh layer of new oil.

With the car up on a four post lift, I have tried to remove this buildup using a spray-on & wipe off degreaser which works fine except on the heavy layered places which is the majority of the undercarriage. A putty knife also works but only on the limited flat areas. Degreasers like Gunk work but require rinsing off with water. I have toyed with using Gunk and a power washer but my garage is fairly new with painted drywall and an epoxy type floor which will all be a real mess if a power washer is used.

I have researched car detailers and found they all seem to attack the undersides with power washers while the car is on the ground and that will not get to anything other than the surfaces closest to the ground. One company uses a power washer with the car up on a 2-3 ft high ramp which also won't work because it's not high enough.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get this car clean underneath? The car itself has a very nice paint job, photo attached. After being cleaned and painted, once a month on the lift with a rag will keep it looking like this old classic should both up top and underneath.

GlenIMG_2080.JPG
 
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Sumboodie

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Hotsy.

Why wouldn't 2-3 feet up not be high enough? Use a short wand and get under with a creeper.
 
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glentre

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May 21, 2016
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909
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Gloucester, Virginia
Attached photo of the underside of the car. It is a 5,050 lb vehicle supported by massive C channels with 3/16" steel connecting plates plus it has a number of cables and levers for the mechanical brakes and emergency brake. The photo does not show the crud on all the surfaces very well. But, that crud covers the insides and tops of the C channels and the top of the supporting plates as well as all the linkages and cross shafts and even extends to the underside of the running boards and the wood body flooring. Spraying cleaners or pressure washer water directly from under the car when on the ground or 2 ft above the ground would only clean the exposed horizontal surfaces which I have already addressed for the most part. With the car high on a lift, the pressure washer could be directed to those surfaces not able to be hit from directly below.

Years ago, engines and chassis were steam cleaned but I have not found any detailers or other companies in my area who still use steam. It seems they all are using liquid degreasers and power washers. And, none of the equipment rental businesses in my area rent steam cleaners. If I could find someone with a steam cleaner, would it be adequate to remove years of built-up oil and crud? I have also seen dry ice degreasers on line but do not know if they could do the job and also have not found any local detailers who use them.

My reason for posting is to get some ideas on alternatives to me using my power washer to do the job and making an absolute mess of myself and my garage. I would love to find someone nearby who could do the cleaning for me. From experience, this forum is loaded with ingenious folks who often think out of the box and come up with ideas and solutions one would never have thought of. Maybe someone has an idea I didn't think of.

GlenIMG_2102.JPG
 

Adaylate

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Apr 19, 2021
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Washington
Beautiful example of a 1935 Packard!
I don't have anything to add except ....do not do this in your shop!
Good luck!
 

mike93lx

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Tuc04

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AZ
I have one too and it wont do anything but make the undercarriage wet, in my experience
I’ve had luck by parking on ramps in the driveway, then spraying the underside with some degreaser. After I let it soak for awhile I run the sprayer under at a few different angles. That has worked good for me on things that I can get spray to. Certain areas are always going to be obstructed and will need extra attention.
 

Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
I suspect all that oil buildup over the years has done a good job of preserving the bits underneath it. For that reason I'd sure try to find the mildest method of cleaning possible, so it won't disturb or damage any original finishes. As you mentioned it has wood floorboards, and those probably won't stand up well to pressure washing either; besides the high pressure, the less water you get on them the better. It may take a long time but I'd stick to cleaning the chassis one spot at a time with a little solvent, a brush and a rag.

I have a little experience with Bijur oil systems, to this day they're used on various kinds of machinery. Their feed rate can be adjusted. Once you do have it all cleaned up, you may be able to turn it down a little, so it still provides enough lubrication but not so much that it makes a mess. Today's roads are mostly paved and don't have as much dirt and dust, so the lubrication needs aren't as rigorous.
 

scooby074

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Find someone with a proper steam cleaner (not hot water). Steam will just melt off grease and oil but not overly soak everything else.
 
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racecougar

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Missouri
Ditto on the inclination to leave it alone. If not, I'd consider rolling the 4-post outside and power-washing it out there. That said, you run the risk of causing damage with degreasers and a power-washer.
 

Bill T

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Easley,S.C.
Be careful with pressure washers. I was hired to dissassemble ,clean and reassemble a vehicle's tramsmission and rear diff because the owner decided to be extra aggressive with a pressure washer. Seals do a good job keeping oil in, but do a lousey job keeping water out when it is under pressure. He had just about completely filled his rear end and transmission with water.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I remember steam cleaners. They weren't exactly gentle. For this fine old car I think I'd cover the garage floor (and lower walls if needed) and take this a bit at a time. I know pressure washers have an extension as standard but having the nozzle on a very short extension would be very useful. Getting one bent at a 45º would get into to tight spots. Obviously this is a very dirty job so suit up.

A pre soak and agitating is going to produce the best results with less overall work. I used to keep the undersides of my cars spotless. It was an OCD thing to wash the wheel wells every time I washed the car. Back side of the wheels too. At my age I don't do that anymore. One trick I used was to trigger spray a cleaner on a warm but not hot engine compartment. I'd get a long brush and hit what I could. Then I took a bucket of water with a full cup of Tide and dump it everywhere and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. I didn't want it to dry. After that, a stream out of the garden hose would finish things beautifully.

Compressed air or a yard blower helped drying. But the final detail is always rags and elbow grease. In addition, I have found more modern cars to not like being washed around all the sensors, etc. So the dry ice thing is really the best thing to come along. I even looked into it but equipment is very expensive.

I have thought of using my airless spray paint gun with water, but I have yet to do that. I think it would work.
 

AldeanFan

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Niagara on the Lake
cleaning this is going to make a mess wherever you do it.
Personally I like hot water and a cheap pressure washer.
Each fall I jack my truck up as high as I can get it on the gravel part of my driveway (with plywood squares under the stands) and pressure wash the underside with my cheap electric pressure washer hooked up to the hot water spout. I'm told this is bad for the pressure washer but the hot water really helps melt off the grease and gunk.

For a very greasy vehicle I would spray it down with degreaser and put cardboard on the ground to catch the chunks of grease.

You need to be a contortionist to get everything but it does work.
 

mcj115

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Dec 4, 2018
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Hershey PA
I like the idea of steam cleaners.....I say start with brining a knife to a gun fight. But a cheapo $40 hand held steam cleaner with wand, put the car of the lift in the garage and see if it makes a difference. Maybe it will work well, maybe you wasted $40 or maybe you it works awesome and you want to get a better steamer. a cheapo steamer shouldn't make too much of a mess if your garage for a test.
 
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glentre

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May 21, 2016
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Gloucester, Virginia
Thanks so much to all who suggested ways to clean this chassis. Use of an old-fashioned steam cleaner seems to be the best solution as it would not blow crud all over the garage or damage the car. If I can find one, I just hope it will be strong enough to dislodge years of layered dirt and oil. I'll continue to look for a place to rent one as it doesn't make sense to invest in a single use machine. Meanwhile, I'll work with degreasers, brush and rags to slowly attack the problem.

Stuart's suggestion that the Bijur oil system can be adjusted is something I did not know and I'll look into that. The system is automatic, working off of pressure differentials between the manifold and vacuum pump on the engine so it may not be adjustable. We shall see.

Regarding doing nothing to clean the underside, this is not an option. The previous owner maintained the car well but considered it a driver to take on tours and not a show car so he had no interest in having a pretty engine compartment or undercarriage. The car has a fantastic paint job and all the chrome is pristine. With a lot of time but little money spent on cleaning up the underside and interior, the car can be turned from a driver to a show car worth considerably more than I paid for it and that is the objective.

Glen
 

slidehammer

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California Central Coast
Drench a rag in mineral spirits and try scrubbing a section with that. It cuts through oily grime like butter but won't remove paint or etch metal like many degreasers do. You may not need to resort to heavier artillery.
 

charbar

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Feb 6, 2021
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Ive never been around a dry ice blaster, didn't even know there was such a thing. My first thought was a parka and a hot power washer, that's how I clean vehicles before they come into my shop for a transmission, transfer case, axle work etc. Pull the wand off the handle and stick the nozzle right to the handle and you can get in far more places than with the wand on it.

Lots of times I have let a lawn sprinkler run under a car to help loosen crud up. You would probably need to use hot water since its mostly oil build up, but a sprinkler running under it in different areas with hot water would probably at least help loosen/soften the stuff up Id think.

Next thought is pull the body and roll the frame outside....go to town with a power washer :lol:
 

gahrajmahal

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Cincinnati, Ohio
For the type of “frame off restoration“ clean you are looking for I think the only way to get there without making a mess is to go at it by hand with turpentine, simple green and plastic scrapers for thick areas. Harbor freight sells some nylon brushes that will be gentle on the nooks and crannies. Personally, I’d settle for what you have, it’s a real beauty!
 

MBfreak

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A shop working on large lorries will have a steam cleaning bay. They will be able to clean the underside of your fantastic car perfectly.
Had it done on a barn find old Camaro. So gunky we did the entire car inside out b4 disassembly. Enough rat and squirrelscontaminations to kill us!

Ola
 

Blue

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With a lot of time but little money spent on cleaning up the underside and interior, the car can be turned from a driver to a show car worth considerably more than I paid for it and that is the objective.
How much is "considerably more," and how much is your time worth?
 

RoninB4

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Under My House
Used dry ice blaster at the last job on injection molds a lot, it was an industrial unit with no shortage of air. It does a nice job of not marring the anything underneath the surface grime, even burned compounds. If the layer of grime is thicker than .030-.045 it doesn't seem to be as effective, particularly if the grime is soft enough to absorb the impact of the dry ice particles. Removal of half baked grease just smeared it without really removing it. Seems to work better on fully hardened substances as an impact method would suggest. Even in the video posted above the guy recommended and used multiple methods for removing the grime on that Porsche. As noted several times, the blasted grime will have to go somewhere and it will make a mess. Dry ice may work well for periodic cleaning but for the first go I think you may need to use several methods, depending upon how thick the grime is layered on. Beauty of an automobile, enjoyed seeing it. Good luck.
 
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