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How-To Clean Rusty/Dirty Chromed Tools! (DIY Guide)

DennisH2014

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
120
As a tool collector and enthusiast, I enjoy having my stuff looking clean and polished, so after a long time searching and trying out different methods for cleaning, I've developed my own and it works excellently for me so I would like to share it with you all!

Supplies:
-Calcium/Lime/Rust Remover (Source: Dollar Tree)
-Heavy-Duty Scouring Pads (Source: Dollar Tree)
-Plastic Bins x2 (Source: Dollar Tree)
-Colander (Source: Dollar Tree)
-Bucket
-Marvel Mystery Oil ($4/QT @ Walmart)
-Microfiber Cloths/Rags
-Toothbrush
-Paper Towels
-Gloves (Nitrile, Vinyl, Latex, etc...)

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning & Preserving Chrome Tools....

Sockets & Wrenches (skip step 4, just rinse with hose)):

1. Wash of all excess dirt and grime with a hose, or by tumbling in the bucket with water, makes the whole process easier.
2. Dump the sockets into the bucket, add CLR Cleaner & Water in a (CLR 1:1 Water to CLR 1:4 Water ratio, depending on severity of rust), adding enough to thoroughly cover all tools.
3. Allow tools the time to soak and the CLR to work on the rust, at least a day, longer if you prefer (shouldn't damage the chrome); stirring occasionally with a scrub brush helps to clean the tools by physical means and keeps surfaces open to the CLR. For heavily rusted/grimed tools, after a short time of soaking, manually clean with a toothbrush for inside of sockets, and heavy duty scouring pad on the outsides of sockets & wrenches.
4. After soaking for some time, pour the contents out through the colander to separate out the sockets, and with a garden hose, rinse off the sockets while shaking colander to loosen stubborn grime. Thoroughly shake once finished to remove as much water as possible.
5. Pour tools into microfiber cloth-lined plastic bin and then dry as much as possible with the cloth. The drier the better, it may help to use a space heater and/or fan to help with this.
6. Once dry, pour a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil (.5oz or so), into the other plastic bin and add the dried tools. Tumble them around until all sockets are covered with a slight film of oil.
7. Finally, you're almost done! Grab some paper towels and line the other bin with them, making sure the bin is dry first and then pour the greasy tools into it. Use the paper towels to wipe off the excess oil; DO NOT use a microfiber cloth for this.

That's all there really is to it, it's surprisingly simple, and cheap thanks to DollarTree! I hope at least a few people find this guide to be helpful, I'll try to take some pictures the next time I do this and add them here!
 
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5.9Jon

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
38
Location
The Pas, Manitoba, Canada
Hey, I know this thread is a bit old but it was the newest one I could find on the subject. Will this method work with impact sockets? As I have quite a few that are rusty.
Thanks, Jon
 

catalytic

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
636
Location
Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
I strongly recommend either:
Evaporust + scotchbrite pads + Simple Green green cleaner followed by Boeshield T9

or

Electrolysis + scotchbrite pads + Simple Green green cleaner followed by Boeshield T9 (Electrolysis is more work to set up, but you can do huge parts this way and no need to order Evaporust)

I have worked on a LOT of hand & machine tool restorations and tried everything. The OP's method will work, but the rust solution he recommends is usually made of buffered acid, which may etch machined surfaces (although maybe you don't care if it's just sockets and not machine tools), and oil makes a not-ideal anti-rust coating. Evaporust is MUCH more resistant to re-rusting in my experience.
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
Hey, I know this thread is a bit old but it was the newest one I could find on the subject. Will this method work with impact sockets? As I have quite a few that are rusty.
Thanks, Jon

I've done that method or similar for impact sockets, but usually I end up using a fine wire wheel and/or buffer to make them smooth.

the final step is to use cold blue from a gun/sporting good store (I prefer the cream over the liquid). the cold blue puts a nice quick and easy finish and blends in with the black phosphate (if there is any left) pretty well. then of course oil it well. I have even done that with some old snap-on's that were silver but not chrome (probably 40's?), and they look much better that way...YMMV.
 

woody6904

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
522
Location
NW Ohio
I've done that method or similar for impact sockets, but usually I end up using a fine wire wheel and/or buffer to make them smooth.

the final step is to use cold blue from a gun/sporting good store (I prefer the cream over the liquid). the cold blue puts a nice quick and easy finish and blends in with the black phosphate (if there is any left) pretty well. then of course oil it well. I have even done that with some old snap-on's that were silver but not chrome (probably 40's?), and they look much better that way...YMMV.

X2, I have touched up a few impacts with gun blue. I just used what I had for the guns, that Brownells Oxpho Blue in the liquid. Just make sure the socket is completely degreased and all you need is a q-tip to apply it then some 0000 steel wool to blend it in, and it works great. Cabelas has a small 4 oz bottle of it, it is the best gun blue I have found.
 
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