Bolster
Well-known member
Please explain?
How to crack Pawn Shop Codes
- Thread starter Blacknwhitepit
- Start date
Please explain?
Ok, I went to my pawn shop today picked up the earlier stated Snap on (underline logo) combo wrenches and i noticed that he did have codes on some of the bigger items and even 1 of my wrenches had "5644-x" He had the wrench listed at $10 bucks seperate so im thinking that instead of code it must have been some sort of inventory management identification, Dunno but i did score a 3/4, 5/8, 9/16, 1/2, 7/16,3/8, 11/32 and a 17mm x 19mm offset boxed end along with 5 hard handled screwdrivers for $55 bucks. He had the complete set from 7/8 down but sold some of them while i was waiting him out on his price.... Dammit ahwell still a good haul for the day i suppose. Will include pics in a new thread once i get all these stupid stickers off.
Flathead Youngin'
Well-known member
I guess I'm a little slower than the average bear......
Our local shops just have a price but then again, I've never really paid that close attention.
so, say a price would look like this:
$29.99RNNN
republican
they have $10.00 in it?
our shops ****......rusted, chicom junk.....stuff that horror freight didn't even sell in the beginning...
i did score a metabo 4.5 angle grinder for $25, once......that made me go back a lot but i've never found anything that great since.....
hmmmp, i want to be a code hacker and just go around telling them their code
Our local shops just have a price but then again, I've never really paid that close attention.
so, say a price would look like this:
$29.99RNNN
republican
they have $10.00 in it?
our shops ****......rusted, chicom junk.....stuff that horror freight didn't even sell in the beginning...
i did score a metabo 4.5 angle grinder for $25, once......that made me go back a lot but i've never found anything that great since.....
hmmmp, i want to be a code hacker and just go around telling them their code
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
I would love to crack the date code at Cash America, since this is more important to them than the amount paid. The employees can just glance at the tag and know how long it has been there. I look at all the numbers on the tag and say, "Huh?" I guess that is what they want me to do. I've got to become friendly with one of the employees and then ask them. Maybe I should just go in there one day hell bent of figuring it out.
Ign
Well-known member
Interesting read.
The prices on tools around here are ridiculous, too. $300 for an old Dewalt drill held together w duct tape, circular saw and one battery.
$200 for an old-style Milwaukee abrasive shop saw (can be had for $180 or less new)
Clearly the retail sales are not their concern
The prices on tools around here are ridiculous, too. $300 for an old Dewalt drill held together w duct tape, circular saw and one battery.
$200 for an old-style Milwaukee abrasive shop saw (can be had for $180 or less new)
Clearly the retail sales are not their concern
fordbroncodave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 4,555
weather you find out their secret code or not you still don't know the price denominations. i don't see how it will help knowing any of this anyways.
the shop i go to won't budge unless it is not marked. i bought a ton of stuff from them and not once i was able to bargain and win
the shop i go to won't budge unless it is not marked. i bought a ton of stuff from them and not once i was able to bargain and win
jgj5150
Well-known member
I've bought a lot of tools from pawn shops. The first rule is to know the price of things new. Like the other posts, I've seen as new Craftsman sets priced at retail plus. I don't like to pay over half new price and then only if the tool is in like new condition.
I've found it helps to pick out several items and if the negoiated price isn't good, put them down and leave. The next time you are in he may be readier to deal. Keep everything polite and light hearted, It's not going to hurt you to miss buying some old tools, and it won't kill him to miss a sale.
The time the tool has been in stock does make a difference usually. I had glanced at an old rusty ratchet that I thought was a Wright. After several months I decided since I didn't have a Wright I would try to buy it, got it for$1. Well, it was slightly rusty but mostly it just had an industrial finish and it was very tight and worked fine. It turned out to be a Williams 1/2 inch drive but I didn't have a Williams either.
You have to be ready for the unexpected. I saw a black plastic clamshell case on the floor under a rack of shelves with Husky on it. It was very hard to get open and I figured it was a Chinese set from Home depot, which turned out to be the case. However, someone had replaced the ratchet with a Snap on 3/8 drive ratchet. The sticker price was $20 and I went to the clerk and told him that I was going to shock him by paying the listed price. He gave me a $5 plus tax discount.
KEH
I've found it helps to pick out several items and if the negoiated price isn't good, put them down and leave. The next time you are in he may be readier to deal. Keep everything polite and light hearted, It's not going to hurt you to miss buying some old tools, and it won't kill him to miss a sale.
The time the tool has been in stock does make a difference usually. I had glanced at an old rusty ratchet that I thought was a Wright. After several months I decided since I didn't have a Wright I would try to buy it, got it for$1. Well, it was slightly rusty but mostly it just had an industrial finish and it was very tight and worked fine. It turned out to be a Williams 1/2 inch drive but I didn't have a Williams either.
You have to be ready for the unexpected. I saw a black plastic clamshell case on the floor under a rack of shelves with Husky on it. It was very hard to get open and I figured it was a Chinese set from Home depot, which turned out to be the case. However, someone had replaced the ratchet with a Snap on 3/8 drive ratchet. The sticker price was $20 and I went to the clerk and told him that I was going to shock him by paying the listed price. He gave me a $5 plus tax discount.
KEH
That's funny because I haven't really been able to find the date code either, but like you, I haven't really tried too hard either. FYI, the Cash America's that I've been in use MARY LOUISE as their code for the amount borrowed against it.
mkdive
Well-known member
Yep, that about sums up what I have found down here also.
Damn good thread, really interesting. Thanks!
Bolster
Well-known member
OK, so far we have :
MONEYTALKS
MARYLOUISE (CashAmerica)
BLACKHORSE
BLACKMONEY
REPUBLICAN
VOLKSWAGEN
DAYORNIGHT
NIGHTORDAY
CHARLESTON
PHARMOCIST
ABCDEFGHIJ
WORKSTEADY
...any others??
Seems that looking at repeated letters toward the end of the price tells you what the zeroes may be, so the fast way is to keep this list on you (I keep this list in my smartphone), and look for the code that matches your guess at the zeroes, as a first attempt.
MONEYTALKS
MARYLOUISE (CashAmerica)
BLACKHORSE
BLACKMONEY
REPUBLICAN
VOLKSWAGEN
DAYORNIGHT
NIGHTORDAY
CHARLESTON
PHARMOCIST
ABCDEFGHIJ
WORKSTEADY
...any others??
Seems that looking at repeated letters toward the end of the price tells you what the zeroes may be, so the fast way is to keep this list on you (I keep this list in my smartphone), and look for the code that matches your guess at the zeroes, as a first attempt.
There is a chain of pawn shops in my state which I believe are privately owned. The prices vary widely between them. I bought a 159pc craftsman set with 1/4 drive missing which I paid $30 for; the other store listed a 115pc set for $70. Their codes is displayed from one store on their website but not the others.
There is also a private store nearby which I haven't seen any label codes. Its dark and musty and its inventory is full of old stuff. I like this store as they have complete set behind the counter but their loose tools (wrenches and sockets) are in bins. I walked away with two handful of sockets and couple of wrenches for $5.
But the best place I enjoy going to is Goodwill Outlet store. Everything is in bins and they sell by the pound, usually $.49/lbs. Electronic goods go for $1.99 - 2.99. I bought a TEAC av reciever, Sharp amp, several screwdrivers, pliers, etc. I've always walked away not spending more than $4, with most times less than $1. But the secret is out now, everytime I go, I see work vans there.
There is also a private store nearby which I haven't seen any label codes. Its dark and musty and its inventory is full of old stuff. I like this store as they have complete set behind the counter but their loose tools (wrenches and sockets) are in bins. I walked away with two handful of sockets and couple of wrenches for $5.
But the best place I enjoy going to is Goodwill Outlet store. Everything is in bins and they sell by the pound, usually $.49/lbs. Electronic goods go for $1.99 - 2.99. I bought a TEAC av reciever, Sharp amp, several screwdrivers, pliers, etc. I've always walked away not spending more than $4, with most times less than $1. But the secret is out now, everytime I go, I see work vans there.
Titus
Well-known member
A good place to start would be to go up to the guy working the tool counter and ask him if he has anything new in. If you are lucky, he will say "this just came in yesterday" and then you can assign a date to the code on the item. If you have no lock with the guy working the tools, you can try one of the other staffed areas of the store. Do this each time you stop in there, and after a while you may be able to notice a pattern.
Bolster
Well-known member
very Clever!!
rwhite692
Well-known member
Bob I am curious, what would a regular (ie, not a pawnshop) store, such as Longs, use these codes for?
R6 Racer
Well-known member
southrland
mkdive
Well-known member
@R6racer.....
You race R6's or are you just a track day guy like most of us? I have two R6s (also two R1's)....one of my R6s is a dedicated track bike. I'm interested if you race, what circuit are you in?
You race R6's or are you just a track day guy like most of us? I have two R6s (also two R1's)....one of my R6s is a dedicated track bike. I'm interested if you race, what circuit are you in?
Lump
Well-known member
I often use a price-tag-code when pricing tools and other junk at my booth in a swap meet, etc, so that my wife and family members can negotiate sales whenever I am away from the booth. But I use my codes differently than any of the examples shown above. For example, I do not use (or need) zeroes on the end of any price, and I encode the lowest price I will accept, not the price I paid. (For me, it's irrelevant what I paid for the item. The way I see it, whether I got a bargain and anticipate a big profit, or whether I paid too much for the item and must take a loss...the item is worth exactly whatever the market will pay for it---no more and no less).
So for example, if I have a price tag showing $50 on an item which I paid $20 for, my price-tag code might reveal something like "43" to anyone who knows the code. (Note that I generally try to use arbitrary numbers at the end of my price, like "forty-THREE" or "forty-ONE", instead of "forty dollars even" or "forty-five" every time. And I mix my bottom-line-sale-price numbers up arbitrarily, to suit me).
Of course, any code can be broken. But that's no big deal to me. My codes are only there so my wife, sons, or other family members can go ahead and accept an offer on an item without worrying that they are making a mistake, while I'm not standing there. And while I might accept an offer of $43 on the item in my above example from one particular buyer...I might choose to hold more tightly to my price on the next one (if he/she is rude, arrogant, etc, etc). Conversely, if someone offers to buy lots of items all at once, or if a buyer happens to hit me at the right moment, I am subject to take a lot less. So sometimes it might be difficult to figure out my codes...even for my helpers!
Of course, I don't have the overhead or employees of a pawn shop. When it's all said and done, I'm just an amateur seller out for a fun day of buying and selling at a local swap meet, etc. And I mix up my pricing to suit me all day long...because I can.
I doubt that too many people will break my price codes. But if they do...oh well.
So for example, if I have a price tag showing $50 on an item which I paid $20 for, my price-tag code might reveal something like "43" to anyone who knows the code. (Note that I generally try to use arbitrary numbers at the end of my price, like "forty-THREE" or "forty-ONE", instead of "forty dollars even" or "forty-five" every time. And I mix my bottom-line-sale-price numbers up arbitrarily, to suit me).
Of course, any code can be broken. But that's no big deal to me. My codes are only there so my wife, sons, or other family members can go ahead and accept an offer on an item without worrying that they are making a mistake, while I'm not standing there. And while I might accept an offer of $43 on the item in my above example from one particular buyer...I might choose to hold more tightly to my price on the next one (if he/she is rude, arrogant, etc, etc). Conversely, if someone offers to buy lots of items all at once, or if a buyer happens to hit me at the right moment, I am subject to take a lot less. So sometimes it might be difficult to figure out my codes...even for my helpers!
Of course, I don't have the overhead or employees of a pawn shop. When it's all said and done, I'm just an amateur seller out for a fun day of buying and selling at a local swap meet, etc. And I mix up my pricing to suit me all day long...because I can.
I doubt that too many people will break my price codes. But if they do...oh well.
There's only a couple pawn shops around here, both little hole in the wall privately owned ones.
I haven't noticed any price codes at either one. In fact, the one store I couldn't find any price tags or anything at all on the stuff. It's been a while since I've been to the other one, so I guess I'll make a point of stopping in again and see if I can find any hint of a price code.
Neither on really has anything worth buying, though, so in the end I guess it doesn't matter!
I haven't noticed any price codes at either one. In fact, the one store I couldn't find any price tags or anything at all on the stuff. It's been a while since I've been to the other one, so I guess I'll make a point of stopping in again and see if I can find any hint of a price code.
Neither on really has anything worth buying, though, so in the end I guess it doesn't matter!
american lockpicker
Banned
No codes here just top prices on craftsman and even higher prices on Rigid(Made in Ohio only.) They buy used tools or let you trade them in but it has to be US made no Asian or EU. 
Interesting.
Yesterday I bought an IR 2135TiMax 1/2" impact for $80 OTD.
I know what I paid for my new one, and it's guaranteed to work (it does) so it seemed like a good risk.
The tag was marked RN1110......what did they have in it? $10?
Yesterday I bought an IR 2135TiMax 1/2" impact for $80 OTD.
I know what I paid for my new one, and it's guaranteed to work (it does) so it seemed like a good risk.
The tag was marked RN1110......what did they have in it? $10?
1320stang
Well-known member
I've been trying to crack this code and for the life of me, can't.
This was on a LG radio YRZRR OEZEE
This was on a LG radio YRZRR OEZEE
There used to be an appliance store near me that used numeric code where 11241099992 would be the date the item was put into stock and their cost backwards. Date 11/24/2010 their cost 299.99. But they wouldn't hagle on price so it was useless info to have.
sumner52000
Well-known member
The guy at my local pawn shop screwed up and told me they usually pay $1 a piece for any tools. So now I know what they have in it. I walk up to the counter and laydown a handful of wrenches and say what i will pay. I have never had them say no. Got a set of gearwrench ratchet wrenches for $10 two weeks ago. A few days before that i paid $50 for about 40 pieces including about 15 snapon and mac sockets, a craftsman ratchet stamped rebuilt, and the rest assorted american made wrenches.
mrshaun
Well-known member
One of the local pawn shops just opened and they have a Pro link iq for 1599 and the letters on the price tag are aeeee looks like they are using volkswagen as their code it would put their price at 799.99 which is about right for the full price on the ticket.
did I look at this one wrong. i didnt have any time to scout out the other stuff in the shop and i would have to get more prices to get a true feel for their secret code word.....
the pro link is new and is fully loaded. since we have diesel trucks now we have to use one of those to scan these things. figured that would be a cheap way to get an expensive tool....
did I look at this one wrong. i didnt have any time to scout out the other stuff in the shop and i would have to get more prices to get a true feel for their secret code word.....
the pro link is new and is fully loaded. since we have diesel trucks now we have to use one of those to scan these things. figured that would be a cheap way to get an expensive tool....
shanker
Well-known member
I'm still trying to figure out my pawn shops code...I'm almost positive that H stands for 0, which really limits what words it can be
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
The Cash America date code is simple.
Above the "MARYLOUISE", there is a small three number code, such as 110. The first two digits are the month, and the last is the last number in the year; hence, 110 is November, 2010.
I was asking for 10% off a jig saw when the associate explained that they couldn't discount it because they had just gotten it that month, and she showed me the date code and explained it to me. She acted like it was no big secret, but if the company wanted the customers to know, then they wouldn't use a code.
I was at the same location week earlier, trying to negotiate a price on a Smith & Wesson 4046. The manager told me, "Well, we only have a penny in it." I checked the MARYLOUISE, and he wasn't kidding. I asked how that could be possible, and he said that it came from a local police department and they can't legally give it to them so they sell it for a penny. Why the police department wastes the taxpayers money like that and why they sell it to that particular pawn shop is beyond me. Anyway, I got a great deal on that gun, and they made a killing.
Above the "MARYLOUISE", there is a small three number code, such as 110. The first two digits are the month, and the last is the last number in the year; hence, 110 is November, 2010.
I was asking for 10% off a jig saw when the associate explained that they couldn't discount it because they had just gotten it that month, and she showed me the date code and explained it to me. She acted like it was no big secret, but if the company wanted the customers to know, then they wouldn't use a code.
I was at the same location week earlier, trying to negotiate a price on a Smith & Wesson 4046. The manager told me, "Well, we only have a penny in it." I checked the MARYLOUISE, and he wasn't kidding. I asked how that could be possible, and he said that it came from a local police department and they can't legally give it to them so they sell it for a penny. Why the police department wastes the taxpayers money like that and why they sell it to that particular pawn shop is beyond me. Anyway, I got a great deal on that gun, and they made a killing.
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shanker
Well-known member
My local Cash America also uses MARYLOUISE
I'm still trying to figure out what the local independent uses, as they're the only ones in town w/ tools or anything worth a chit
I'm still trying to figure out what the local independent uses, as they're the only ones in town w/ tools or anything worth a chit
bulldrm
Well-known member
What a great thread....The best Pawn Shop around me is Cash America. Might have to go in today and use my newfound knowledge!
Lambo nut
Banned
I always get a pretty good deal at my Pawn shop, sometimes get things for free!
Doesn't hurt that my brother and father own the place.
You would not believe some of the stuff that comes in there. Plus the stories, oh the stories.......
Kevin
Doesn't hurt that my brother and father own the place.
You would not believe some of the stuff that comes in there. Plus the stories, oh the stories.......
Kevin
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
I always get a pretty good deal at my Pawn shop, sometimes get things for free!
Doesn't hurt that my brother and father own the place.
You would not believe some of the stuff that comes in there. Plus the stories, oh the stories.......
Kevin
Seems like it would be a fun place to work except for the class of "people" that you have to deal with.
One of the Cash Americas over here has a nice arcade quality like new Family Guy pinball machine. Who the hell pawns/sells something like that?
Lambo nut
Banned
Like I said, the stuff and the stories.
I have seen alot my self, and I only stop in there once in a while. These days the range of people are getting more stretched, as in all walks of life are coming in pawning/hurting for money.
Kevin
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NJHandyGuy
Well-known member
WOW i have been looking at pawn shoips all wrong good info thanks
mrshaun
Well-known member
this pawn shop is new and I bet they will not budge on the price.
I thing they have 799 in it. I wonder if they would go for 1000 cash no receipt.
anyone else get better deals trying to go for no record of the sale
I thing they have 799 in it. I wonder if they would go for 1000 cash no receipt.
anyone else get better deals trying to go for no record of the sale