I would like to cut a few inches off each side of a vise stand, including the pieces of angle iron. It is 1/4" plate steel. I have a hack saw, angle grinder, circular saw with metal blades, and a sawsall. I need to make two 8" long cuts. Is there any possible way I will be able to make these two cuts with what I have available, or am I better off living with it as is? Thanks.
how to cut steel plate?
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MScott
Well-known member
I would use the angle grinder with a metal cutting abrasiver disk. The hacksaw is going to take forever, you will have trouble getting the circular saw close enough to make the cut and it is easier to make a straight cut with the angle grinder than with the sawsall. JMHO
neonnblack
Well-known member
yeah grinder all the way.
Link-Belt
Well-known member
4 1/2" electric angle grinder with a metal cutting disk. Do not put to much pressure on the disk they are very delicate and can do some real damage to the body if they explode. Make sure the guards are on and wear a face shield. If the disk is used properly with very light pressure it will make quick clean work of that 1/4" thick plate and your cutting will last longer.
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RECox286
Well-known member
My choice would be to chuck a metal cutting blade in the Sawzall, then use the
angle as a "fence" for the straight cut, and finish off the cut with the angle grinder.
Take your time with the Sawzall, not too much pressure or blade speed, and keep the
blade tight against the fence for a straight and good looking cut. I've done this
many times, it works well, and looks better than when done with a hot wrench.
Uncle Bob
angle as a "fence" for the straight cut, and finish off the cut with the angle grinder.
Take your time with the Sawzall, not too much pressure or blade speed, and keep the
blade tight against the fence for a straight and good looking cut. I've done this
many times, it works well, and looks better than when done with a hot wrench.
Uncle Bob
Tink
Well-known member
You could cut it as straight as you can with the sawsall ,then clamp a piece of angle iron to the remaining piece and use it as a guide for the grinder to straighten the edge.
bdkruger1
Banned
Angle grinder with a death wheel. I've built many things w/o torches or a plasma. Ear plugs, glasses,face shield, and a good mask make the job more bearable. Good gloves too. Just draw guide lines on it with a sharpie or whatever, and let the disc do the work. It's when you cut crooked and twist them that they break.
premierplayer
Well-known member
Yes, use what you have. My choice would be the angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. YMMV, go with what feels good to you.
Guys, no where in the op does it say or imply the cuts need to be straight. There ya' go again assuming.
Will67
Well-known member
Porta-band with a decent metal blade. Done in 30-45 seconds.
crazytrain
Well-known member
My vote is for the angle grinder.
MikelHochst
Member
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it works well, and looks better than when done with a hot wrench
csp
Well-known member
I cut 4' of 3/8" steel a couple of weeks ago with a 4" angle grinder with cutoff discs in it. It took about 30 minutes and I went through three discs in the process.
My vote is the angle grinder.
My vote is the angle grinder.
Chaz
Well-known member
A good blade in a sawzall. Grinding/cutting discs are a helluva mess.
dlenkewich
Well-known member
I couldn't help but think that if you had to ask, you should acquire some help before taking this one on for yourself.
I don't mean to be rude at all here, if you visit a proffessional fab shop you won't see hack saws, circular saws and sawzall's on the manufacturing floor and would go as far to say that any of the three former mentioned tools would be terrible choices to cut 1/4" steel plate.
As mentioned the tool to use is the angle grinder with a cut off wheel, I'd also have a grinding wheel at the ready to smooth the edges because they'll be very sharp after the cuts.
I don't mean to be rude at all here, if you visit a proffessional fab shop you won't see hack saws, circular saws and sawzall's on the manufacturing floor and would go as far to say that any of the three former mentioned tools would be terrible choices to cut 1/4" steel plate.
As mentioned the tool to use is the angle grinder with a cut off wheel, I'd also have a grinding wheel at the ready to smooth the edges because they'll be very sharp after the cuts.
I did find your response to be a bit rude, even with a spelling error! Hah. I am not running a fab shop here. It is rare that I need to cut 16" of plate steel, and everyone, until you, has provided very useful info for my situation. Thats what we do here in GJ. You could have just answered with your last paragraph, but you decided to throw in a couple shovelfuls of **** with it. Thanks, anyway.
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A circular saw with a metal cutting blade would do that in a couple of minutes. Is there a flat side if you position the angle-iron side down? Make sure you clamp it down.
An angle grinder would do it, too -- with a couple of cut-off discs. A jig saw with a bimetal blade would do it -- but even slower than the angle grinder.
Let me see if I can find the video of me cutting 3/16 with a cheap circular saw.
Here it is:
An angle grinder would do it, too -- with a couple of cut-off discs. A jig saw with a bimetal blade would do it -- but even slower than the angle grinder.
Let me see if I can find the video of me cutting 3/16 with a cheap circular saw.
Here it is:
ddawg16
Well-known member
Short of having access to a plasma cutter....I would go with the circular saw with metal cutting blade as Jack suggested.....
But...FWIW....I have cut quite a bit of 1/4" plate with a sawzall.....in the amount of time it would take me to go buy a metal cutting blade...my sawzall would have it off....
But...FWIW....I have cut quite a bit of 1/4" plate with a sawzall.....in the amount of time it would take me to go buy a metal cutting blade...my sawzall would have it off....
Angelfire
Well-known member
Sounds like a perfect excuse to buy a plasma cutter!
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I wouldn't use a circular saw with a metal blade if I had any other means. They have plastic parts on the saw guard that can melt and spins much faster than a chop saw or multi-saw (a circular saw that's made for metal, aka dry saw. Like a cold saw just higher RPM). I'll cut aluminum all day long with a circular saw but never steel. Not to say I've never seen a guy at a construction site cut plate with a table saw. Rebar with a circular saw, or pipe with a mitre saw (or any combination)...I have. You gotta decide, when working with metal, it's a good idea to know the tool you use cause they can all hurt you. I personally owned a metal fab shop for years and have seen a bubbling idiot hurt himself with an orbital sander and a skilled artist carve thick steel plate with an angle grinder like it was a paint brush. The trick is to understand how the tool your gonna use works, how it can fail, and prepare accordingly. The angle grinder, for example, is known for catching, bucking, and then blowing a disc up in your hand/face/etc. If you know it can happen, prepare for it (correct protective gear), and cut at the right speed, you could be safe and successful. Get too aggressive, forget glasses, and fail to brace your support hand, you could change your BB name to OneEye. The real answer to your question depends on what you have access to, what you're comfortable using, and how long you want it to take. I'd make that cut with a plasma, a cut-off wheel, or a torch (in that order) in my shop. I always tend to pick the method that requires the least amount of cleanup. If your trying to do it on the cheap, angle grinder. Justify a cool-tool purchase to the Mrs, a $2k plasma should do the trick.
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eh.. gotta agree with the guy.
the time it took you to make this thread anyone who replied would have just used the suggestion they made and did the job. but hey sometimes it is nice to have your hand held.
sberry
Banned
I have to agree with this, a few minutes with a sawzall, clean and safe. You dont need real fine teeth, 14 is plenty.
A torch can be a precision instrument also, if it isnt , well,, plasma was broke. When I do this regular (which wasnt the case here and way too much coffee) I can get really slick.
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BD1
Well-known member
Angle grinder with cutting wheel or HF metal cutting saw.
CSP. I cut 3/8 plate with the HF and it worked well. I like the idea of a manufactured metal cutting saw. The shavings or filings don't go all over.
Cheap for the money.
CSP. I cut 3/8 plate with the HF and it worked well. I like the idea of a manufactured metal cutting saw. The shavings or filings don't go all over.
Cheap for the money.
They make 7-1/4" blades now that are rated for 5500 rpm. And unlike abrasive discs, they don't generate the kind of heat that would damage the plastic parts in a circular saw. That said, their lifespan is not as long as the lower-RPM blades. But for cutting sheet and thin plate, they work pretty well. There's even a guy on this board who used one to cut his 3/4" plate welding table top with one. For $35 or so, it's a worthwhile option to have.
Your points about safety are very well made, of course. Cutting steel is not the same as cutting wood. (And even wood can kick back and ruin your day.)
In order of preference, I would use :
-torch (plasma or oxy-fuel cutting torch). Done in seconds (literally).
You didn't say you had that/those available, so next preference would be:
- steel-cutting circular saw blade.
I have used these and they work really-really well (within their limits). 1/4 inch thick steel is within the thickness limit of (some of) these blades (check to make sure you are using a blade 'rated' for 1/4 inch thick steel). Freud (in their Diablo "Steel Demon" product line) as well as Lenox and Morse "Metal Devil" all make carbide-tipped steel cutting 7-1/4 inch circular saw blades (as well as probably others).
http://www.diablotools.com/blades-7.html
http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?productId=MetalCuttingCircularSawBlades
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75
For ~$40-$50, get one. Neat tool to have available. Watch out for the hot metal chips and watch out for the sharp freshly-cut edge. Dress the edge with a file or knock off the sharp corners/edges with your angle grinder.
Next choice might be an abrasive disc/blade (circ saw or grinder/cut-off). Noisy, much slower than the above choices, dust and grit everywhere. But it can get the job done.
Next might be a sawzall. It can do the job, but again not as fast as the first two choices.
Hacksaw? It can do the job. It will take a while.
Another 'good' choice might be a bandsaw (portable or stationary) with a decent blade. An 'excuse' to go and buy a tool, perhaps?
Wear/use the appropriate PPE (safety gear).
-torch (plasma or oxy-fuel cutting torch). Done in seconds (literally).
You didn't say you had that/those available, so next preference would be:
- steel-cutting circular saw blade.
I have used these and they work really-really well (within their limits). 1/4 inch thick steel is within the thickness limit of (some of) these blades (check to make sure you are using a blade 'rated' for 1/4 inch thick steel). Freud (in their Diablo "Steel Demon" product line) as well as Lenox and Morse "Metal Devil" all make carbide-tipped steel cutting 7-1/4 inch circular saw blades (as well as probably others).
http://www.diablotools.com/blades-7.html
http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?productId=MetalCuttingCircularSawBlades
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75
For ~$40-$50, get one. Neat tool to have available. Watch out for the hot metal chips and watch out for the sharp freshly-cut edge. Dress the edge with a file or knock off the sharp corners/edges with your angle grinder.
Next choice might be an abrasive disc/blade (circ saw or grinder/cut-off). Noisy, much slower than the above choices, dust and grit everywhere. But it can get the job done.
Next might be a sawzall. It can do the job, but again not as fast as the first two choices.
Hacksaw? It can do the job. It will take a while.
Another 'good' choice might be a bandsaw (portable or stationary) with a decent blade. An 'excuse' to go and buy a tool, perhaps?
Wear/use the appropriate PPE (safety gear).
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I was not aware, I'll check them out. It would be a fantastic option for thin tubing (like exhaust work) over the chop saw. I'll take chips at and added cost over the dust any day. Thanks for the tip.
tcianci
Well-known member
Sawzall, moderate pressure, slow recip speed and cutting lube. It's amazing that folks would not think twice about cutting material like your project with a metal cutting bandsaw, but balk at the thought of doing it with a sawzall. It's nearly the same situation.
metalmagpie
Well-known member
Maybe it's time to add the *correct* tool?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/3185788779.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/3185788779.html
csp
Well-known member
They may be the same method of cutting, but the speed of the bandsaw wins, hands down.
sberry
Banned
Speed isnt an issue to the OP, he needs to make a couple of cuts, a single sawzall blade would do this in a few minutes, without buying new tools, without making it a big gut wrenching ordeal.
Richard D
Well-known member
Nobody in Oregon can take their Porta-band or torch over there and help him out? Make sure there is beer in the fridge.
Do not miss the opportunity to go out and buy a nice new Plasma machine
I'd use the sawzall. I have the best luck with Lenox blades. Angle grinder is also a good choice with the thin cut-off wheels. Do it with the regualr thicker wheel and it gets tedious!
I'd use the sawzall. I have the best luck with Lenox blades. Angle grinder is also a good choice with the thin cut-off wheels. Do it with the regualr thicker wheel and it gets tedious!
Will67
Well-known member
RECox286
Well-known member
Not having the experience of working at a fabrication shop, I do my projects by
myself, at home in the garage. I have a miter saw cut off wheel, angle grinders,
bench grinder, jig saw circular saw and Sawzall. Of the choices of tools at my disposal,
and given that I work with material of similar thickness, I still would reach for the
Sawzall and a fence to make short work of this project. And, I would be surprised
to hear that the OP would not want a straight cut. Most people that subscribe to
forums such as this, are usually somewhat picky about what things look like when
they are finished with them. I believe that you could assume that as a "given".
No matter the way you decide to go, I'm sure that you will end up with a good
looking stand or, will be going to the steel supplier for a new piece if it goes sour.
Good luck and good hunting
Uncle Bob
myself, at home in the garage. I have a miter saw cut off wheel, angle grinders,
bench grinder, jig saw circular saw and Sawzall. Of the choices of tools at my disposal,
and given that I work with material of similar thickness, I still would reach for the
Sawzall and a fence to make short work of this project. And, I would be surprised
to hear that the OP would not want a straight cut. Most people that subscribe to
forums such as this, are usually somewhat picky about what things look like when
they are finished with them. I believe that you could assume that as a "given".
No matter the way you decide to go, I'm sure that you will end up with a good
looking stand or, will be going to the steel supplier for a new piece if it goes sour.
Good luck and good hunting
Uncle Bob
Richard D
Well-known member
If you use a sawzall, use some WD-40 or some sort of lubricant/coolant. Will cut easier, better, and blades will last longer.
okay, I am the OP, and here is the verdict...at least for this job.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................I used a Sawzall, and 1 blade, and wd40, and an edge guide- took 10 minutes. Thanks for all the replies- it has been an interesting thread.
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cgall
Well-known member
When I was younger, I woud have sawed it longways with the hack saw for awhile, then bashed it up and down with the Ford tool.