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How to determine a load bearing wall

gjz30075

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
Hi all,
Just bought a house with an attached two car garage. The back of the garage (an outside wall) has a wall that parallels it, about 3 1/2 feet from the back, in the garage. This is divided into two small shed type of rooms. This wall, along with the back wall is perpendicular to the ceiling joists. There's a bonus room above and it, too, has a wall parallel to the joists below and is about 5 feet from the outside wall.

I want to get rid of about half of the 'shed' wall in the garage, so about 10 feet of it. When asked about whether or not it's a load bearing wall, a GC friend says, "maybe". I know that's the safe way out but I would really just like to demo half of this 'shed' wall and not have to put up a header.

It's not under the upper wall and I feel it's pretty close to the outside wall to think it's not load bearing. What say the GF folks? Hopefully my description is not too muddy :)

Thanks,
 
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larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,885
Location
oregon
I'll go along with maybe also. Way to much information lacking to judge. Your going to have to post about 20 pictures of the area in question, including digging up the footers so we can see them.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Stee6043

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Joined
Jun 7, 2012
Messages
143
Location
West Michigan
At a minimum you're going to need to remove parts of the wall covering (drywall?) and see what the top and bottom look like. It may become quite obvious that it is load bearing when you see how the wall ties into the joists and floor.

I just replaced a load bearing wall in a basement that I did not originally assume was load bearing. It can be a bit of a pain in the *** and has significant risk if you do it wrong. Tread lightly.
 

87jeepwrangler

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
195
Anything short of tearing into it enough to figure out where the loads are being transferred, is just a guess.

I know it's a vague answer, but the supplied info is equally vague without more details and pictures.
 

WQ59B

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
762
Location
NJ
Yeah: pics.
in most cases, a 2-car garage's load bearing is to the outside walls & over the footings. Additionally, some have lally columns in the center depending on the span/ceiling joists used, those are usually supporting the ceiling system alone, not the roof. The only way I would imagine the inner wall is load bearing is if the roof system ends over it & the outer wall was added later. Looking @ the roof structure & foundation locations will point U in the right direction.
The 2nd floor wall is another matter; whether the ceiling joist system was engineered for the weight there or not, esp if the 1st floor wall was removed. Might really need some measurements/calculations there.
Yeah, pics.
 
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gjz30075

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
Sorry guys, I realize my info was vague and I'll try to get some pics, although everything is drywalled and finished. I do know these little 'shed' rooms inside the garage have headers over the doorways. The wall sits on a concrete floor of the garage. I'll have to tear into the drywall of the ceiling to see the joists, which is the right thing to do, anyway. It looks like the right answer at this point is 'maybe'. I'll post back with pics
 
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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Also, was the room above added in later? The live load changed if it was. That could make the lower walls support walls. I'll vote that they were added if they are right on grade in a garage. Most garages have a little stem wall under all walls. I've seen it done otherwise throughout history, but I said 'most'. You may be able to still have support in the way of a beam in lieu of the walls. And if you only remove 10' that header won't have to be a huge beast.

Take the drywall down at the top few inches and get those pics. That will be an easy repair if you decide to not move forward with this.
 

Bosque

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Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
66
Location
Lafayette Indiana.
keep in mind that it may be easier to see how it is attached to the ceiling by going through the attic rather than first tearing into drywall. You said you have attic storage space so I would assume you would have to lift up the floor but I would rather do that than have to repair drywall if it is determined you are not ready to remove a load bearing wall if that is what it does.
 

bochnak

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Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
1,230
Location
Mt. Prospect, IL
I could be wrong, but I doubt a load bearing wall would exist 3.5' from an outside wall?

Like others mentioned, post some pics.
 

ren20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
13
Location
NNJ
i also just get started with a load bearing wall project. Tho the wall to be removed is located on second floor. I suggest you hire a structural engineer. The work is going to much more than i anticipated in my case.
 
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gjz30075

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
Best I can do for now, moving and all. You can see the wall with the two openings (one without a door) to two little rooms. The entrance to the house is to the left of the open door. I haven't opened the ceiling yet but I think the joists run front to back, as I suspect the lowered part of the ceiling running left to right by the garage door opener, is a beam of sorts for support. The part of the wall I want to remove is about three feet to the left of the opening with no door then going right to the outside wall. The other outside wall is about 3 and a half feet to the rear of this wall. Sorry, may still not be enough info without opening the ceiling and that may have to wait until the end of honey do's.
Thanks all.
 

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