I'm going to relpace the carpet in my kitchen with vynil floor tiles. Each tile measures 36" x 12". How would I determine a straight line so as not to end up with a tapering width last row of tiles? The room is approx 9' x 9' with counters and cabinets on two of the sides.
how to determine square for vynil floor tiles?
- Thread starter 87GN
- Start date
measure and use a string line. lay it out so that ( as much as possible) the edges have more than 1/2 of the tile width so it is balanced looking.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would do it the same we we do tiles for garage floors. Don't worry about square feet, use 'square tiles,
How many tiles wide will you need. I would assume 3. How many tiles deep will you need. I would assume 9. So you need 27 tiles.
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How many tiles wide will you need. I would assume 3. How many tiles deep will you need. I would assume 9. So you need 27 tiles.
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I have the tiles. They are a floating style that use adhesive strips already attached so I can't just lay them out beforehand, This is what I bought:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...-Tile-Flooring-24-sq-ft-case-211713/100595258
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...-Tile-Flooring-24-sq-ft-case-211713/100595258
rsanter
Well-known member
How is the kitchen layer out?
You want full or mostly full tiles along the wall
You can hide some taper under the toe kick.
If you have a U shaped kitchen with an island then you want to lay it out so that each isle way has the tiles spaced similar or the eye will see something is wrong or uneven
Bob
You want full or mostly full tiles along the wall
You can hide some taper under the toe kick.
If you have a U shaped kitchen with an island then you want to lay it out so that each isle way has the tiles spaced similar or the eye will see something is wrong or uneven
Bob
The floor area to be covered is basically 9' x" square. Two sides are counters/gas range. The fridge is next to the end of one counter and a wall. The opening in the corner is for the dishwasher. I'm going to lay the tiles up to the base of the cabinets, a little ways under the front of the range and do the area where the fridge sits. I was going to start in the corner opposite the dish washer (right side closest in the picture on the left) and go towards the cabinets and all the area under the fridge. I'm dealing with carpet glued to tile glued to asphalt paper glued to the subfloor. Should I also consider some sort of self leveling paint/sealer before laying down the tiles?
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kd3pc
Well-known member
you really need a smooth, clean subfloor for the tiles to stick properly. No old anything on it.
will need to check with the tile maker to see IF they will stick to leveling products, as many are shiny-smooth and will not work well with peel and stick products.
will need to check with the tile maker to see IF they will stick to leveling products, as many are shiny-smooth and will not work well with peel and stick products.
rburke65
Well-known member
I like your first photo with the PC in the lower area and The Garage Journal brought up on the screen! Great staging!
RayBob58
Well-known member
If your room isn't square, there's no way to avoid having tapered tiles along at least one side. Better to spread the taper out over 2 sides. The best you can do is determine which 2 walls are closest to being parallel, and lay your tiles with the long side running in the same direction. Hope that made sense.
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csp
Well-known member
Draw a square or rectangle on the existing floor/subfloor that's inboard of the walls and parallel to one of the room's walls. Make sure that what you draw is square. Once it's there, measure from each end of the figure you drew to the walls on the other three sides.
If the other three walls are parallel to your drawn square then the room is square.
Any bumps you have from the older floor will telegraph through those vinyl tiles. Gradual differences won't matter. I installed the same thing in a customer's bathroom just last week and it was the first time I had used them. Make sure the have a sharp knife to cut them and aviation snips/sheetmetal shears work well for cutting as well. Pull/push the joints tightly to each other as you lay the tiles and you won't have any visible seams.
If the other three walls are parallel to your drawn square then the room is square.
Any bumps you have from the older floor will telegraph through those vinyl tiles. Gradual differences won't matter. I installed the same thing in a customer's bathroom just last week and it was the first time I had used them. Make sure the have a sharp knife to cut them and aviation snips/sheetmetal shears work well for cutting as well. Pull/push the joints tightly to each other as you lay the tiles and you won't have any visible seams.
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FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
I used a similar product in a kitchen for a rental. It fit my budget & timeline, & didn't seem bad for a DIY type floor. I ran screws thru 2 loose floorboards & filled a couple of places where the previous material had chunked out prior to laying the floor. I was concerned about prior issues telegraphing thru. I worked hard to keep the joints tight, but they opened up very slightly over time anyway. No one else seems to have noticed, but that part was annoying.
I would (did) run the material all the way under the appliances. Nothing more frustrating to pull out a range or dishwasher & have it catch & tear a floor that was left short. Plus leaving the old/unfinished floor back there is hard to clean. The added cost is minimal.
If the room isn't square, start & finish with a cut tile, so the taper isn't emphasized by being close to a "grout" line. For example, if the room is 9' 2", start & finish with a 7" tile on both sides of the room instead of a 12" on one side & a 2" on the other. It will look more balanced & the taper will show less.
You can split the difference & snap a chalk line down the center to measure from. That way each side of the room only shows half of the overall taper. Lay some of the tiles without removing the paper from the adhesive strips to get a feel for how they will work if the corners aren't 90 degrees. Sometimes a room will have a side that stands out & shows over the others. If that's the case sometimes it works best to make that side dead straight & let the hidden/broken up sides take up the problems.
I would (did) run the material all the way under the appliances. Nothing more frustrating to pull out a range or dishwasher & have it catch & tear a floor that was left short. Plus leaving the old/unfinished floor back there is hard to clean. The added cost is minimal.
If the room isn't square, start & finish with a cut tile, so the taper isn't emphasized by being close to a "grout" line. For example, if the room is 9' 2", start & finish with a 7" tile on both sides of the room instead of a 12" on one side & a 2" on the other. It will look more balanced & the taper will show less.
You can split the difference & snap a chalk line down the center to measure from. That way each side of the room only shows half of the overall taper. Lay some of the tiles without removing the paper from the adhesive strips to get a feel for how they will work if the corners aren't 90 degrees. Sometimes a room will have a side that stands out & shows over the others. If that's the case sometimes it works best to make that side dead straight & let the hidden/broken up sides take up the problems.