How to do trim on a house instructional vids

[Blazinzuk]

We just redid our flooring in our house. Was hoping to reuse the baseboard but in reality some was partially broken, some broke as it was coming off and overall it was poorly done. Do executive decision was made to replace it

I'm gonna tackle it. Any particularly good you tube videos to watch?

I have basic understanding and cope tubing alot for roll cages do I think that may help, little nervous about tackling this myself but paying someone to do it is just not gonna happen right now

 

[matt_i]

Are you doing stain-grade or paint-grade trim? This makes a difference.

All I can advise is to take your time. For outside corners I cut two short test pieces at exactly 45 deg (using the stops on my mitersaw...its an ancient Milwaukee, probably early 1990s model). You can also cut pieces at 45.5 and 44.5 deg, mark them, and use them to see what fits.

For inside corners, its a cope as you said. I had good luck with a vertical bandsaw, a belt sander, and a coarse rat tail file. You can cheat a bit and create a sort of dull-knife edge (lets just call it an 85 deg between the long face of the trim and the face you are coping) on the cope so there's less material to take away, across the thickness, when making adjustments.

Those aren't typical trimmers' tools but I did a significant portion of a big house that way and it all worked well.

Another tip is to buy enough trim for the entire job + 10% and bulk paint it all at once. Theoretically there's just touchup of nail holes. I also had an 18ga brad nailer to use.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Check out Fine Home Building contributor Gary Katz. He’s got a lot of material out there

 

[glentre]

Understand that not all corners are 90 degrees, inside or out. If the house is drywall, then there will be a bulge at the outside corners where the steel corner bead is installed. Use an adjustable angle measuring tool (they are cheap) to determine actual corner angles and set your saw to cut angles to meet each corner as they will all be different. I would not even try the installation without an electric miter saw, even a cheap one so long as it can be adjusted to slightly more and less than 90 degrees. A few cuts with a wooden box miter is ok but certainly not for a whole house. If you are going to paint the base, it's easier to paint it first before cutting and mounting it and then give a final coat after filling the nail holes, caulking and touching up. Pre painted base is also available at the big box stores.

Remember to find and mark the studs (on the wall if you are going to paint them later or tape on the floor) as you will not know where to nail once the base is held against the wall. Also, if you are not good with a hammer, a miss will dent the base. If uncomfortable with that, drill pilot holes for the finish nails first and set them below the surface of the base with an inexpensive nail set. Then use painter's putty to fill the holes by pressing the putty into the holes with your finger and cutting it off with a putty knife while it's still under pressure. As it dries, it will expand and can easily be sanded flush with the surface.

If you're going paint grade, I'd skip the coping part so long as you measure and cut the corner angles well. Caulking all the joints before final paint makes a nice finished job also, including caulking the top of the base at the wall.

This is not rocket science. Sounds like you have played with angles on tubing projects and this is a piece of cake as compared to that. Better than Utube, there are a lot of trim instruction books at every big box store that you can refer to as questions on each step come up rather than hunting through a vidio.

You may need a few tools but buying them will be much cheaper than having the work done by a contractor. Remember the mantra of all DIY guys........every new project deserves buying new tools to get it done. Good luck.

Glen

 

[DGersic]

Measure carefully. As many times as needed. Both length and angle. A miter saw and a brad nailer will help a lot. Coping the inside corners is a pain but a band saw helps. Undercut the angle slightly, so there is less filing needed to match the profile.


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[like2wheel]

I found a jig saw easiest to use to undercut the cope. Then clean it up with a piece of self adhesive sandpaper on a scrap piece. Use it like a custom profiled file to tune up the cut.
Need to find sandpaper with the thinnest backing to conform to the profile & not enlarge it, but its worth the trouble.

Tell your wife an nailer is a requirement. Better yet cordless.

 

[Whitworth]

Select your trim stock carefully. Nice, straight even grained pieces are what you want. You'll pay a premium for virgin trim over that **** that's a bunch of glued up pieces.
Don't measure anything for final fit, always mark it in placed with a sharp pencil. And don't use those stupid carpenter's pencils.

You'll need a 15 gauge nailer and maybe an 18 gauge nailer, a power miter saw, a sharp block plane, plus the usual stuff. On the collated nails, look at how the chisel tips are orientated. Some types are one way, some the other. If you fire with the chisel tip parallel to the grain you will split the piece, (especially towards the end of the board), shoot it in at 90 degrees to the grain instead.
Keel in mind how out-of-level the floor is BEFORE you start, and adjust accordingly.
Be prepared to screw up and pull a piece or two, happens all the time, take your time and don't get frustrated.

 

[Blazinzuk]

Paint grade trim not stain grade. House had stain grade trim before done poorly and in my house ( not fancy at all) paint grade will look good.

I'm hoping to get a new miter saw out if it, mine is 20 years old and was a cheapie back then, and looking at cordless Brad nailers.

I also plan on using a large section just as practice. I've found it is best to just budget that in.

Thanks guys

 

[straps57]

Finish Carpentry TV on YouTube.

 

[Simplytodd]

+1 Finish Carpentry on YouTube. Tons of videos with little tricks of the trade.

 

[Augus7us]

I just did some of this in my new house for the first time. I'll see if I can find it but I watched some italian guy in new york use a jig saw with a special guide. The guide was too expensive so I ended up just removing the guide on my jig saw and use that. Instead of making a 90* cut the guide allowed him to cut on a 45 as he was coping it.

All my internal corners were coped and external were mitred. The guy whos video I watched was able to do it all with a jig saw, I had to break out my dremel with a drum sander to clean it up, but the fit up was good in the end. Kind of proud of it actually lol.

Hope that helps, if I can do it, you can!

-Clint

Edit: To add: pops taught me to back cut the straight part at a 45 with the mitre saw to save some time, I think the guy in this video does it also.

Here's the video I watched, probably not the best but it worked for me.

 

[Irish Mike]

Going over a floor will require scribing the bottom of the base to match the irregularities of the floor or using a base shoe.......

 

[Lynden]

From This Old House...

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-install-baseboards

 

[Kevin54]

 

[6768rogues]

Use the **** and cope method of cutting inside corners. Cut the first piece square and install it tight to the corner. The second piece gets cut with a 45 degree bevel, then a coping saw is used to cut along the line where the bevel cut and the face of the trim intersect. That pattern will perfectly fit butted to the first piece. A file can clean up the end until your skill level with the coping saw gets to where you no longer need the file.

 

[Movover]

These are the best inventions. You can put in fancy molding in a few hours with nothing but **** joints

 

[Blazinzuk]

I like!!!!! But it's not about what I like lol.

I have seen premade inside and outside corners for certain base too

 

[Blazinzuk]

Just for informations sake this is the flooring LVP. I like it and I don't think it will make a difference on what trim I use but if I didn't ask that, it probably would make a difference lol

View media item 88977

 

[aunsafe2015]

Just for informations sake this is the flooring LVP. I like it and I don't think it will make a difference on what trim I use but if I didn't ask that, it probably would make a difference lol

View media item 88977

Is that the stainmaster Dove oak color?

 

[850xpeps]

Send your baseboard through table saw with a 5 degree bevel on the bottom. Easier if need to scribe and will take up some dips in the floor.
My last place I did all mdf and it wasn’t a couple years it started to blow up in moist areas. So if using mdf make sure to prime the underside and back in moist areas like entrances and washrooms. Also use an oil primer and obviously water based is no good lol