How to evaluate used files to keep / discard?

[honcho]

Over time, I have accumulated a bunch (30-50, maybe more as I dig) of different files in various shapes, lengths, cuts and condition. Most but not all are vintage USA and after an earlier purge of crusty rusty ones, I'm looking for ideas on what to keep and how to evaluate the condition of a file.

Some are easy as they look like they've little to no use. Others are harder for me to judge and since I do little metalwork, my use of files is negligible. Since I own this bunch, I figure I should keep a few and find a home for the rest. Your knowledge and thoughts on this subject are appreciated.

 

[d.mcfarland]

In your case I'd just pick an assortment of ones you like and will use. Pass/Sell the rest to someone else.

There are services available to recondition files to like new performance.

Boggs Tool & File Sharpening Company

14100 Orange Ave, Paramount, CA 90723 [email protected] (800) 547-5244

boggstool.com

 

[1982fxr]

In your case I'd just pick an assortment of ones you like and will use. Pass/Sell the rest to someone else.

There are services available to recondition files to like new performance.

Boggs Tool & File Sharpening Company

14100 Orange Ave, Paramount, CA 90723 [email protected] (800) 547-5244

boggstool.com

Pretty cool. I wonder what the costs are though...

 

[RJMadigan]

Pretty cool. I wonder what the costs are though...

Boggs website has their prices for reconditioning files. IMO the price they quote is extremely reasonable even with the shipping costs. I've used them on files and the work they've done has been phenomenal. They claim better than new and I agree.

 

[dr_clyde]

Personally I would hang on to any that still cut well and aren't rusty. Throw out the rusty and dull ones.

Files are a consumable, they wear out and eventually need replacement. If they're spent, toss them. If not, store them in such a fashion they won't rust and you'll be set for when you need a particular file.

 

[engineer2]

Worn files become burnishing tools.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

In your case I'd just pick an assortment of ones you like and will use. Pass/Sell the rest to someone else.

There are services available to recondition files to like new performance.

Boggs Tool & File Sharpening Company

14100 Orange Ave, Paramount, CA 90723 [email protected] (800) 547-5244

boggstool.com

Thanks for posting. I added this address to my favorites list, as I also have a few files and woodworking rasps that could benefit from their services.

 

[bwringer]

1) Put chunk of metal in vise.

2) File chunk with candidate.

3) If it doesn't file, fail.

4) If it files, pass.


Source: hundreds of completely worn-out files my Grandpa and then my Dad hoarded for no earthly reason. I think Grandpa toted them home from the trash bins at the AM General factory. I gave up after sorting through several dozen with little success.

 

[engineer2]

Don't some people make knives out of old files because they are higher carbon steel?

 

[dr_clyde]

Don't some people make knives out of old files because they are higher carbon steel?

They do, but if you’re going through the effort to make a knife, I’d highly recommend using good blade steel to start with instead of old files.

Knives take a fair amount of work to make well, and I’d hate to put in the hours to just have a knife rust or break or whatever because I used a file instead of real blade steel.

 

[1982fxr]

Boggs website has their prices for reconditioning files. IMO the price they quote is extremely reasonable even with the shipping costs. I've used them on files and the work they've done has been phenomenal. They claim better than new and I agree.

I missed that part

 

[RTM]

Yup, I got hooked on Bogs from a guy who used a lot of files daily, and sent his new ones to them prior to their first use.

 

[1982fxr]

Only about 3.50 each. Wow.

 

[cmandp]

As far as testing you can actually file some metal. But it is a lot quicker to run your finger over the teeth in the cutting direction. You can feel if the cutting edges are sharp or not. To calibrate yourself, compare to a know good file of similar type.

 

[vavet]

In your case I'd just pick an assortment of ones you like and will use. Pass/Sell the rest to someone else.

There are services available to recondition files to like new performance.

Boggs Tool & File Sharpening Company

14100 Orange Ave, Paramount, CA 90723 [email protected] (800) 547-5244

boggstool.com

I had no idea this was a thing. Thanks for sharing!

 

[John McA]

Thank you. This. Made my day.

 

[marak]

Seems like I recall people restoring "rusted" files with Evaporust Remover. If so, vinegar would also work, just neutralize with baking soda so flash rust doesn't occur.

 

[seber]

They do, but if you’re going through the effort to make a knife, I’d highly recommend using good blade steel to start with instead of old files.

Knives take a fair amount of work to make well, and I’d hate to put in the hours to just have a knife rust or break or whatever because I used a file instead of real blade steel.

Files used to be 1095 steel. These days most are case hardened. But it isn't too hard to tell the difference when you start grinding. 1095 is very good knife steel.

 

[dr_clyde]

Files used to be 1095 steel. These days most are case hardened. But it isn't too hard to tell the difference when you start grinding. 1095 is very good knife steel.

If you like rusty knives. We’ve come a long way in heat treatable stainless cutlery steels. 154CM is available for not much money, and is an outstanding stainless blade steel.

Not sure why anyone would want a knife that wasn’t stainless anymore.

 

[RoninB4]

Not sure why anyone would want a knife that wasn’t stainless anymore.

A bit OT here: I don't particularly like SS for a cutting edge. As a toolmaker I thought the 400 series to be just about ideal for a blade so I purchased a few large blades in 440C over several years. Perhaps it's HT (Gerber) but I found all to be on the soft side and didn't really hold an edge as well as well as knives I had made from 1095 or A-2. Perhaps things are different now but I've always found SS blades to be either too soft or too hard. I feel I can also get a sharper edge on carbon steel whether it's a chisel, plane, or edged weapon. JMO

 

[MushCreek]

As a life-long tool maker, I had no idea files could be sharpened! I guess I'll round up a couple dozen and send them off.

 

[Cheepbeer]

There was a company called Save edge in Xenia ohio. Now as far as I can tell, it's called File sharpening service now. Looks like they got sued. No website.
360 W Church St, Xenia, OH 45385
File Sharpening Co
(800) 828-8298

 

[honcho]

Good ideas all, thank you for the suggestions!