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how to fix a retaining wall?

bzinsky

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Oct 27, 2014
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5,565
Due to a gutter that clogs constantly, my retaining wall is giving way. Just slowly bending over further each year. Not sure how to fix this.

I'm assuming I need to dig the dirt out on the side of it, but what then? Any advice would be appreciated. I am renting a bobcat next weekend for other stuff in my yard, not sure if that can assist me with the wall.

Also on a side note, I'd like to cover the retaining wall with something attractive. Seems like a good base for a myriad of options. I was looking at stone veneer, but man that stuff is expensive. I'm all about creative options.

Thanks in advance!
 

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theoldwizard1

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SE MI
The failure was likely caused by one or more of the following

  • Improper footing (likely not deep enough)
  • Improper drainage behind the wall


A wall the low probably does not require any tie backs if the above 2 items are handled properly. I can not tell from the pictures exactly what kind of block that is bit "garden wall" block has a lip on the bottom of each block to interlock it to the block below with no adhesive. The affect is that the wall steps back into the hill. Very effective, but is till requires a proper foundation.
 

Cyberbear

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Nov 23, 2013
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California
Can't suggest any cures for the tilting retaining wall, except that it may require substantial work to remedy the problem once the exact cause is determined.
An easy way to make your retaining wall better in appearance could be to have it stuccoed and apply a textured finish. Where I live these hold up very well and are not that expensive to have done.
 

reader2580

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Dec 31, 2014
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Minneapolis, MN
It appears that the wall is made out of solid or hollow concrete blocks with mortar like a basement wall. I suspect you're going to find that with as much tilt as you have that you'll need to tear out and start over.

For a wall that is only two or three blocks high regular retaining wall blocks should work just fine without a footing unless your soil is really bad. There is no reason you couldn't put in a concrete footing if you want. A neighbor built a 4 foot retaining wall that collapsed after a few weeks and he had to put in a footing.

I have sandy soil with a retaining wall that has sunk in spots. I need to take the wall apart and level the blocks that have sunk.
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
Do you get freezing weather?...frost? We don't know here you are located....hint, hint. I assume you will need a proper footer under the walls.
 

kwschumm

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Olympia, WA
My guess is hydrostatic load caused the failure. Water built up behind the wall, putting enough pressure on the wall for it to fail. Remove the wall, dig it out 8" below the walk, landscape fabric, a few inches of gravel, compact it, put in drain tail wrapped in fabric to drain to daylight, more compacted gravel, then start stacking blocks. Landscape blocks that are built for dry stacking are the way to go. A wall that short shouldn't need tiebacks. Here's an unfinished wall that I did (with tiebacks) and after eight years it's still holding just fine using this method in rainy NW Oregon.

IMG_1403.jpg
 
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bzinsky

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Yes, pretty sure it was a hydrostatic load combined with a lack of drainage. The problem area is located right below where my gutter always clogs.

My issue with rebuilding the wall is that this wall is 50ft long and the part that has tilted is only 10ft long. I have sprinklers in the ground, and my AC compressors there. Just a lot of work for something that has little impact on my life, if you know what I mean.

Not sure if this is a valid idea, could I simply dig it out behind the wall, lay something like a 6x6 post across it and just push it back into place with a bobcat, then resolve the drainage issue?
 

Radix2

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May 28, 2014
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the thumb!, MI
Yes, pretty sure it was a hydrostatic load combined with a lack of drainage. The problem area is located right below where my gutter always clogs.

My issue with rebuilding the wall is that this wall is 50ft long and the part that has tilted is only 10ft long. I have sprinklers in the ground, and my AC compressors there. Just a lot of work for something that has little impact on my life, if you know what I mean.

Not sure if this is a valid idea, could I simply dig it out behind the wall, lay something like a 6x6 post across it and just push it back into place with a bobcat, then resolve the drainage issue?

If the next choice is tearing it out, I'd give it a try!

or tear it out and use the bobcat to regrade so you don't need a wall there at all...
 
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rlitman

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Long Island
If the next choice is tearing it out, I'd give it a try!

Worst case is it crumbles. Once you have the back side dug out, I'd put a section of french drain in there, punch a hole through the wall and daylight it on the driveway side, so that the hydrostatic pressure from behind is relieved.

Oh, and do something about that gutter!
 

MoonRise

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NJ
First off, is that current wall made of just stacked concrete (aka 'cinder') blocks?

If so, wrong product to make a "retaining wall". As you are witnessing.

Rip it all out and replace it with actual "landscape blocks" or "retaining wall blocks". The ones that either have a lip to lock the upper course to the lower course (without mortar) or the 'old school' ones that had a fiberglass pin locking the courses together. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and you should have a nice (and also 'durable') retaining wall.

That doesn't tip over. :lol:

http://www.lowes.com/projects/gardening-and-outdoor/build-a-block-retaining-wall/project

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,219681,00.html

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors...cks/Retaining-Wall-Block/N-5yc1vZbx7aZ1z0sq6h

http://www.allanblock.com/retaining-walls/landscape-walls.aspx

http://www.allanblock.com/literature/PDF/AB_Residential_Retaining_Walls.pdf
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
Not sure if this is a valid idea, could I simply dig it out behind the wall, lay something like a 6x6 post across it and just push it back into place with a bobcat, then resolve the drainage issue?
That 6x6 won't do much of anything unless you install 2 more 6x6 posts VERTICALLY at least 4' below the lower grade level. Try to angle them back toward the house.

Back filling with gravel will help drainage.

Hollow concrete block is a very poor choice for ANY exterior wall. Good luck pushing it back. I suspect most of the joints will fail and possibly some of the blocks themselves.
 

Kaizen

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New England
i'd like you to take off one of the caps and see what those are. if they are hollow block i'm guessing it was just placed and not a frost proof retaining wall. if it is i'd yank it and lay down a modular type retaining wall. only has to be buried one level deeper then the driveway. still a lot of work to do it right. if that is a modular solid block wall you could remove it, dig out the soil and install it again.
if it is either of the above no to installing anything on it.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Worst case is it crumbles. Once you have the back side dug out, I'd put a section of french drain in there, punch a hole through the wall and daylight it on the driveway side, so that the hydrostatic pressure from behind is relieved.

Oh, and do something about that gutter!
As usual, rlitman has nailed the solution. Just dig out behind it and push it back. I just did this with a solid concrete wall over 4' high in the center. Once you undermine the footing it's a POC to move the wall back straight up. Then use some buried cable or chain through a few eye bolts to hold it. A good stake from a piece of pipe will hold it.

You can also lag a length of steel to the back side and attach to that.
 
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bzinsky

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Oct 27, 2014
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i'd like you to take off one of the caps and see what those are. if they are hollow block i'm guessing it was just placed and not a frost proof retaining wall. if it is i'd yank it and lay down a modular type retaining wall. only has to be buried one level deeper then the driveway. still a lot of work to do it right. if that is a modular solid block wall you could remove it, dig out the soil and install it again.
if it is either of the above no to installing anything on it.

It's solid block

If it means anything, previous owner was a DIY god. Everything he did was pretty meticulous. Died at about 60 years old, likely long term asbestos exposure. He was the towns fire chief.

Driveway is like 12" thick concrete(still cracked though lol)
 
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bzinsky

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Oct 27, 2014
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As usual, rlitman has nailed the solution. Just dig out behind it and push it back. I just did this with a solid concrete wall over 4' high in the center. Once you undermine the footing it's a POC to move the wall back straight up. Then use some buried cable or chain through a few eye bolts to hold it. A good stake from a piece of pipe will hold it.

You can also lag a length of steel to the back side and attach to that.

exactly the type of answer I was hoping I'd receive

thanks for your help guys
 
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