How to fix or replace leaky metal roof?

[treimche]

Bought a house in the Fort Myers FL area at the beginning of the year and there's a 24x14 shed here that I want to use as a workshop. From what I have seen so far, this shed is built about as cheap as you can get while still meeting building code requirements. The aluminum roof panels are laid horizontally, which is really dumb, and I think they will leak water forever. I have replaced all the screws already, using one size bigger and applying a glob of roof sealant over each hole before installing the new screws. Unfortunately I'm still getting some leaks when we get heavy rains here (Florida problems). I'm actually wondering if rain water can enter between the seams of the horizontal roof panels somehow during a really heavy rain, or if it is still leaking in past the screws (yes they have the rubber sealing washers and roof sealant).

Let's say a guy was willing to redo the roof somehow. How would I go about that? Could you add a layer of plywood or something on top and then shingle it? Or remove the roof panels and add a new type of roof? I'm just scraping for ideas here as I don't want to waste my time insulating a leaky shed and then ending up with a much bigger problem.

I have a short video to upload, but don't think it will work. If I can figure it out, you can see where the previous owner tried adding silicone sealant or something to the roof seams in order to stop the leaks. It definitely didn't work.

 

[Bill Bowman]

Looks like somebody put the metal roof sideways because there was no way to fasten the metal if placed vertical. Probably needs more wood to support a roof properly.

 

[treimche]

Here’s a couple pics of the outside to give an idea of what I’m working with.

 

[treimche]

Looks like somebody put the metal roof sideways because there was no way to fasten the metal if placed vertical. Probably needs more wood to support a roof properly.

This is exactly how this particular company builds their sheds. I have seen more of them in person, at their sales lot. The company is called "Superior Sheds" and I just can't figure out what the superior part is.

 

[Bill Bowman]

The superior part relates to profit margins, not quality.

 

[treimche]

Hahahaha now it all makes sense. They only give a 1 year warranty also. It all adds up.

 

[Firebrick43]

Horizontal sheeting on a roof and many times on walls will always seep/leak.

There is no way to seal the up because they are applied 90 degrees from what was orignially intended.

They work well enough to keep cars, tractors, or mowers mostly out of the weather but converting one into a shop is always dubious at best.

You could always rip the roof off and add purlins across the rafters or trusses and then add new metal oriented the correct way.

 

[rooster59]

we gotta bingo ovah here

 

[carlaisle]

You'll never get that water tight. You could remove what's there, add horizontal 2x4s on the flat, and then install new metal, but that will leave you with a gap between the existing cladding and new roof around the entire structure. The creative shed owner would delight in this new ventilation feature. If you want it to be water tight, plywood and shingles are probably the easiest and most practical choice.

 

[Uncle murph]

Bought a house in the Fort Myers FL area at the beginning of the year and there's a 24x14 shed here that I want to use as a workshop. From what I have seen so far, this shed is built about as cheap as you can get while still meeting building code requirements. The aluminum roof panels are laid horizontally, which is really dumb, and I think they will leak water forever. I have replaced all the screws already, using one size bigger and applying a glob of roof sealant over each hole before installing the new screws. Unfortunately I'm still getting some leaks when we get heavy rains here (Florida problems). I'm actually wondering if rain water can enter between the seams of the horizontal roof panels somehow during a really heavy rain, or if it is still leaking in past the screws (yes they have the rubber sealing washers and roof sealant).

Let's say a guy was willing to redo the roof somehow. How would I go about that? Could you add a layer of plywood or something on top and then shingle it? Or remove the roof panels and add a new type of roof? I'm just scraping for ideas here as I don't want to waste my time insulating a leaky shed and then ending up with a much bigger problem.

I have a short video to upload, but don't think it will work. If I can figure it out, you can see where the previous owner tried adding silicone sealant or something to the roof seams in order to stop the leaks. It definitely didn't work.

Bite the bullet,tear it off,sheath and shingle it or install purlins and orient the metal in the proper direction.

 

[jack stand]

Yeah that's not any metal profile that I've seen. It's definitely modeled after bevel lap siding vs the more common "agricultural" panel that actually has a side of panel overlap and anti siphon design.
If the overlap is as simple as it appears, it's easy to see that wind driven rain would easily enter especially with the very low pitch.
Put purlins on the rafters (in the long dimension) and buy new roof metal, rake trim and ridge cap and orient the new panels as intended, up/down the slope.

 

[Higgy1300]

Looks like a smith built shed, I have one smaller it does not leak. Maybe call them and see what they say.

 

[reader2580]

A shingle roof will weigh a lot more than a metal roof with no sheathing underneath. Your building may not be engineered for the extra weight.

I can't build a traditional pole barn with metal roofing and siding in my city. I talked to several pole barn builders about a shingle roof and they all said the roof structure has to be beefed up to handle the weight of the the sheathing and shingles. In fact, they didn't really recommend it, but they would do it. Pole barn trusses usually sit on top of the poles. The extra trusses required would have to sit on the the side girts which aren't designed to support the roof. The sky high price for a pole barn with a shingle roof and non-metal siding led me to just doing stick built instead.

 

[Joemctag]

The way your sheets run is “standard” for the many, many “square tube, or carport” buildings in my area. You can pay more and they’ll run metal purlins and put the sheets “vertical”.
I can’t tell what profile your sheets are, but I’d try using “tape seal” on all your “horizontal” laps; then stitch screws in same. The stuff is used on all laps on commercial-grade metal buildings. You should be able to apply it without completely removing the overlapping sheet: just take out screws near the lap and prop the gap open with short boards. Hardest part would be working on your roof without creasing youf sheets, but you’ve already been all over it replacing screws, right?
The tape seal is like chewing gum. Gets soft when hot. Won’t stick to wet metal. Good luck. Might have to order it.

 

[Joemctag]

The way your sheets run is “standard” for the many, many “square tube, or carport” buildings in my area. You can pay more and they’ll run metal purlins and put the sheets “vertical”.
I can’t tell what profile your sheets are, but I’d try using “tape seal” on all your “horizontal” laps; then stitch screws in same. The stuff is used on all laps on commercial-grade metal buildings. You should be able to apply it without completely removing the overlapping sheet: just take out screws near the lap and prop the gap open with short boards. Hardest part would be working on your roof without creasing youf sheets, but you’ve already been all over it replacing screws, right?
The tape seal is like chewing gum. Gets soft when hot. Won’t stick to wet metal. Good luck. Might have to order it.

I’m mistaken; you don’t have a “ metal tube” building. Looks like the walls have posts of (2) 2x4s fastened together and at each post there’s a rafter fastened with a connector plate. I think I’d beef up that rafter-to-post connection and maybe whatever ties a pair of rafters together at the peak. To say tye least, the building looks very minimal and it needs to withstand some storms. Where I live, carports and buildings like this are considered “ temporary” and don’t need to conform to any building codes. Same where you are, I’d guess.

 

[betito]

Like many other building materials, metal roofs can be very strong and long-lasting, but they can also sustain damage over time.
This is common with metal roofs made of inferior materials. In addition, replacing old and worn-out metal roofs is the ideal approach to addressing a leaky roof issue, regardless of whether it may seem like a hassle.
Also, if there are any uneven or warped areas in your roof structure, you should replace corroded or broken metals with high-quality new ones before installing a new roof system. This lowers the possibility of leaks later on because of wear and strain on the structural leads.

You can fix metal roof leaks by following common roof repair methods:

1) Use of Sealants and Caulk

2) Patching

4) Flashing Repair or Replacement

5) Applying Roof Coatings

 

[nadogail]

I have "fixed" a lot of roofs with Henry's and Fly Screen.
After sweeping the roof, i dilute the Henry.s with gasoline or paint thinner, paint it on like a primer; paint it on the roof then lay down the screen, paint the screen with a thicker mix thinned like heavy paint, then after it dries, than spread a thicker coat.

It is like Doping and Fabric repairs to an airplane.

 

[Bert_]

I've done a cheap shed and I'm going to build a bigger one. Even I was willing to spend money on purlins. It's the only way to fix what you have