How to Fix Sagging Header

[Vallea]

I actually did consult an engineer, but stopped short of paying for a design because I don't plan to replace the header (sorry almost everybody). He said a channel vs plate was just a waste of money, steel and weight. He said there was absolutely nothing gained from a channel that wraps around under the bottom. Readhead - do you think he missed something?

 

[readhead]

It wouldn't wrap around the bottom, that would be pretty difficult. A plate would do the job but would have to be in the 3/4" range. Steel is pretty flexable but using a channel adds the flanges which suppliment the web. Large lags and lots of them, will be necessary to resist all this stuff from shearing because you have forced it back to where it doesn't want to be.

Obviously repairing the header is an option and will work but at what expense. The stucco will be damaged when you level this whole assembly and have to be repaired anyway. I'm not against repairing the defective header if it was the only option, which is when we usually get involved. Is it the only option?

 

[Kevin54]

Remove the garage door and the shelf above the spring. Shore up the ceiling and rafters. Remove damaged/sagging header and replace with the appropriate glue lam header.
Do it right.
That is how I would fix it.

^^^^THIS^^^^

Cutting any corners won't fix the sagging header. Believe me. My dad tried angle iron, a new header made out of 2x12's with gluing and screwing, a steel plate, all because he didn't want to spend the money on the LVL's or Glulam headers. To this day, the header above his garage door still sags. Do it proper and replace with Glulam/LVL laminated headers and be done with it, once and for all.

 

[Toolfool]

^^^^THIS^^^^

Cutting any corners won't fix the sagging header. Believe me. My dad tried angle iron, a new header made out of 2x12's with gluing and screwing, a steel plate, all because he didn't want to spend the money on the LVL's or Glulam headers. To this day, the header above his garage door still sags. Do it proper and replace with Glulam/LVL laminated headers and be done with it, once and for all.

Agree with Kevin. A big concern I'd have for either approach though, is an inexperienced guy dealing with the garage door spring. I support DIY efforts, but you have to know your limits. After 30+ years in construction, I can tell you some great stories about homeowner catastrophes , and injuries.

 

[tcianci]

only one person has addressed the major issue of the existing stucco .
it will be very costly to replace vs repair for this reason.
agree to slowly jack a little each day until you are above being straight(use a dry line to determine).A plate with thru carriage bolts will work best or even better sandwich a gluelam with adhesive to the inside and redo the hangers for the door to suit.Adhesive is key in anything you add to the face of the beam.

OK, This couldn't be more wrong...You won't find a structural engineer or any engineered lumber manufacturer specifying adhesive anywhere in the assembly or application of an engineered lumber product. The reason for this is two fold. First of all, many engineered lumber components are coated with a waxy coating to repel water while the project is under construction. This coating makes any adhesive completely useless. Second the performance of any site applied adhesive for structural, load bearing members is all over the map.

 

[Vallea]

OP here again. The comment about DIYers knowing their limits is exactly appropriate here and why I want to bolt on a brace instead of get into serious load bearing construction. It's already been sagging for 30 years because of the split in the grain, but even with that, the sag is only about an inch (measure against a level taut line). So what I am really trying to do is just arrest it so it doesn't get any worse, and if I can get back some of the inch I'll be even happier. The "angry inch" doesn't really bother me (does anybody get that reference?) but I don't want it to get worse. Thanks!

 

[Kevin54]

OP here again. The comment about DIYers knowing their limits is exactly appropriate here and why I want to bolt on a brace instead of get into serious load bearing construction. It's already been sagging for 30 years because of the split in the grain, but even with that, the sag is only about an inch (measure against a level taut line). So what I am really trying to do is just arrest it so it doesn't get any worse, and if I can get back some of the inch I'll be even happier. The "angry inch" doesn't really bother me (does anybody get that reference?) but I don't want it to get worse. Thanks!

Most about it is to use common sense when replacing something. But as far as just bolting something on and it being the "Cure all", it won't happen. I'm assuming that you have a 16' wide door and that is where your sag it. Believe me when I say my dad tried everything to fix the sag in his to no avail. He even replaced the header with another 2x12 header and it sagged. He was stubborn and bullheaded and did not want to buy an LVL/DuraLam header. He had a large 4"x4"x1/4" angle iron bolted to the header, then he added a 4"x3/8" steel plate to the header later on. The sag remained. He would jack the center up before bolting things up, but when he released things, the sag remained. So bottom line.....if you plan on staying in the home for a number of years, rebuild the front correctly and don't throw a bandaid on things for a temporary fix. I'm sure you can find someone to help you out to get it done.

 

[Justanoldguy]

It's already been sagging for 30 years because of the split in the grain, but even with that, the sag is only about an inch (measure against a level taut line). So what I am really trying to do is just arrest it so it doesn't get any worse,

The one inch sag has probably been there 25 years and not moved a fraction since.
If it concerns you at all then I would suggest replacing it.
Any patch up job will only haunt you down the track.