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How to fix this handle?

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Jul 24, 2016
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So, I bought a fairly nice Master Appliance heat gun, older unit off ebay, shipped for 35. Delighted!

But... at the end of the black painted wood handle is a metal protector that the cord runs through, and it's loose, negatively allowing the cord to turn easily inside the handle. Where the cord goes through the piece, the metal is turned up slightly inward toward the inside of the handle, and so my first thought was to inject some clear epoxy through the upper portion of the metal band until it forms enough material along the bottom, where the wood end grain hits the metal piece, then allow it to cure, and once it does, then fill it the rest of the way with the epoxy. If I filled it all the way up first, it would just leak out the bottom, even if I pressed the piece up against the wood. I thought about screws but it would make the wood prone to splitting, especially if the heat gun was dropped. Is there a better solution out there I'm unaware of?

If I go with my plan, I'd use a syringe unless something better existed. Any suggestions?
 

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uscarry45

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I am not sure exactly what you want to do but here are my thoughts anyways. If you dont want the cord to turn could your get a strain relief fitting for a metal electical box?

Could you get a pvc pipe cap and drill a tighter fitting hole and then possibly go with the epoxy route?

Could you drill a small hole in the side to fill with epoxy?
 
OP
M
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Thank you! The cord clamp secures to the metal piece, so that the cord to metal piece on the end of the handle is super tight, it's just that the metal piece on the wood handle is fairly loose and that's what's allowing the cord to turn. It's loose enough to where I could fit a decent sized syringe needle between the metal and the wood. The cord by the way is at least 11/16 in dia. It's very hefty and stiff, but in excellent condition.
 
OP
M
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Here's perhaps a better photo. To be clear, the cord is secure to the metal cap, it's where the metal cap secures to the wood handle, is where things are loose and sloppy. Thought about tightening a hose clamp around the edge of the cap to compress the metal for a tight fit, but unsure how tight it would get, and for how long before it was loose again.
 

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PT Doc

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Does that area get hot. Silicone is pretty strong in certain directions of stress and this would be one that should work well. Tape off and caulk with with clear and pull tape. Let cure for 7 days max and should be great.
 

4 Ever-Fish N

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Another possible solution, use 3M 4200 or 3M 5200 depending on whether this needs to be permanent or not. 5200 is permanent. You can get either in Fast Drying if you prefer. After you open it and use it, put the remainder in the refrigerator and you should be able to use it again.
 

larry_g

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A couple of small wood screws could be put in through the metal cap and into the wood. Some of those had a bail hook on them for hanging, could bend one up from music wire.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
M
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So I attempted the fix today. I needed a syringe to get the material behind the metal cap. Prognoses: Silicone, NO! Epoxy... NO! Both too thick to go through the needle. Thinking about lock tight red now. Would that have sufficient hold power or would I again be gasping at the wind?
 

jakemac

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Use a center punch to dimple the metal into the wood to get the grip you need.
It looks like it was originally a press fit, but time has shrunk the wood.
 
OP
M
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No, I can put a new style handle to it I believe, and I was contemplating it, it's just that I really like the wood handle better. Feels super solid.
 
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ChaseDE

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A couple of short, round headed screws through the metal into the wood?

That is my vote. A few (2 or 3) very small pilot holes drilled in then a few shorty screws through the metal into the wood. I doubt it would really affect the structural integrity of the handle.
 

bubinga

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Lots of Good Ideas!
I like the Shrink tube idea @ davefr!!
Would be pretty clean looking too I would think!
I'd try to get the ends of the shrink tubing nice and square too,
but then again, I tend to try to Get things "too nice" sometimes.
"Show of hands" here.....lol................
How many of you have had something Darn near perfect, And just "Had" to try and get it "better" ..............(and then messed the whole repair Up, and had to start over)and called yourself a Dumb-A$$, for not leaving well enough alone.
I've Called myself one quite a few times.
I've Also been called A "Fuss-budget................LMAO.......had never heard the term before.
 

Jimithing616

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I think the best option sounds like dimpling the metal piece or driving in a few screws.... however, you could also remove the old metal piece and try a new ferrule meant for a chisel, they sell them at woodworking supply places... or you can use brass or copper fittings meant for pipe or some copper pipe itself and sand them smooth or to whatever shape chucked up in a drill press....then epoxy that new ferrule on... I still think there has to be a way to get epoxy in that gap though with the existing metal piece ... be creative haha!
 
OP
M
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I think the best option sounds like dimpling the metal piece or driving in a few screws.... however, you could also remove the old metal piece and try a new ferrule meant for a chisel, they sell them at woodworking supply places... or you can use brass or copper fittings meant for pipe or some copper pipe itself and sand them smooth or to whatever shape chucked up in a drill press....then epoxy that new ferrule on... I still think there has to be a way to get epoxy in that gap though with the existing metal piece ... be creative haha!

This was the way I was leaning. I'm using a large needle, but the epoxy wouldn't go through and I wound up breaking the syringe so I immediately pulled back for more planning, before I made an irreversible mess! Thinking long and hard about the screws too, but I really want it to look good too, and getting precise screw placement will be difficult.
 

no704

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Whatever you do DO NOT ever leave one plugged in. Friend had a switch go bad and burned his shop down.
 

6PTsocket

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It looks like the cord is held by a Heyco type strain relief. Pinch the Heyco and slide it off. Now you can pull the metal cap back. Fill cap with adhesive of your choice and reinstall. I like JB Weld but I am sure other adhesives would work too. As far as silicon goes, it is structurally weak, regardless of color. It is fine for gaskets but you don't want to pull on it. If you must go with a flexible adhesive, E6000/Goop is stronger but this looks like an epoxy job. This is a ridgid joint and there is no reason to make it flexible. I would LIGHTLY sand the handle and clean and rough up the inside of the cap for a strong bond. To do it right the cap has to come off.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
OP
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Glued it with fairly respectable results but I wound up using 3 number 2 screws spaced equally around the cap with excellent results. Very pleased!
 
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