How to fix this rust hole?

[Rod N]

Any ideas guys?
This is where two panels meet. Right panel is fine. Panel to the left is not structural. Hole is covered by rocker cover, so you won’t see it.
Proper way it to take it to a body shop and spend a few grand, but I’m not going there.
I was thinking of a screen and bondo? The left panel flexes a bit so I’m worried it will crack.
Finger shot to show it’s not that big of a hole.
Any ideas?

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like it's been patched once already . do you weld? how old is the car? how long do you want it to last? ,
in my opinion, anything that is a temporary fix is a waste of time if the trim covers it, even a proper fix would be in question if the rest of the car is suspect?
a quick temp hack fix; spray foam , body fill, rattle can of matching paint

 

[PCustoms]

looks like it's been patched once already.

Agreed


What's the end goal here?

"Tiger hair" Bondo and bedliner has kept more then one New England vehicle on the road for another inspection cycle...

Sprayfoam works too

 

[Bert_]

Hole is covered by rocker cover, so you won’t see it.

Install rocker cover. Problem fixed.

 

[4xdog]

My brother in Northwestern Ohio years ago filled his Blunderturd’s rockers with spray foam. shaved it to approximately the right profile, rattlecanned it flat black, and drove the vehicle for years.

I couldn’t live with that myself, but to be honest it really didn’t look that bad.

 

[4xdog]

A colleague in Central Ohio in the 1980s repaired the lower door skins of his early-70s Suburban by covering them with window screen and saturating with multiple coats of driveway sealer.

It looked like **** — possibly because he left the black repair on a beige truck. It probably woulda worked better if he’d rolled on some house paint.

But Ed had only three criteria for a vehicle. It had to stop, start, and steer. The Suburban did that.

That’s one more criteria than my dad had, for whom a vehicle had only to run and be paid for.

 

[Rod N]

Only rust on a 40 year old 911.
I don’t mind fixing it 1/2 ***. To go full *** I might as well not even fix it. No foam. Lol Nothing that traps moisture.
I’m tempted to give it a good dose of rust restore. Spot paint it with rust paint and call it a day.

 

[PCustoms]

No foam. Lol Nothing that traps moisture.

I've heard this but never seen anything backing it up.

But for a vehicle that's got issues anyways and is only going to make it another year or 2 but needs to pass inspection (usually no rust holes, or at least no rust holes in passenger compartment) then it works to keep the beater on the road.

Certainly not something I'd use on anything not destined for the crusher

 

[Rod N]

I don’t weld

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

I don’t weld

You don't weld.....yet.

Time to gear up and learn!

 

[Torque&Recoil]

That's the jack port, right? With an oil cooler tube underneath? You have the outer cosmetic rocker cover removed, so we are looking at the unibody, and inside the hole is the "frame". I'm more familiar with 914s than 911s, but you have to be careful about rust in that area. If any water gets up in there, the car will be toast in short order - ask me how I know this. Is that jack port starting to crunch upwards, because it kinda looks that way.

 

[Rod N]

Jack port and everything else looks solid. I’m sure if you start pulling off panels maybe a different story.

 

[The Cobbler]

I've heard this but never seen anything backing it up.

An old acquaintance had the idea to spray foam cavities in his Ford Cube van to insulate it & deaden the noises. after 5 years the van was rotted beyond belief where the foam was . he was sorry he had done it

 

[ChefRex]

Rust never sleeps.

 

[mrbill55]

Only rust on a 40 year old 911.
I don’t mind fixing it 1/2 ***. To go full *** I might as well not even fix it. No foam. Lol Nothing that traps moisture.
I’m tempted to give it a good dose of rust restore. Spot paint it with rust paint and call it a day.

That is not the only rust near your jack point, as close as I can see, given my time with other northeast, rust inhibited 911/912's, I( can tell you that you need to open the entire panel at least 6" in all directions. What you see is just the tip of the iceberg here, and the bondo that hid the rust now showing goes far deeper, and most likely in other areas of your chassis. My advice, at the very least, is to grab a magnet, place it in a small velvet bag (like a jewel bag) and run it across the body, do not be surprised when it sticks well in some places, but not well in others. Spending the money to make it right will be in your best interest as any 911 these days is well worth doing right.

Bill

 

[NYBODYMAN]

Only rust on a 40 year old 911.
I don’t mind fixing it 1/2 ***. To go full *** I might as well not even fix it. No foam. Lol Nothing that traps moisture.
I’m tempted to give it a good dose of rust restore. Spot paint it with rust paint and call it a day.

Fixing it half *** is just as bad if not worse than full ***. Either do it right or you are wasting your time. There is much more rust/rot than meets the eye there.

 

[cgrutt]

I agree with others if it's a vintage 911 that you want to keep I'd have that addressed properly. I'm not really sure how all of it works (rocker cover) and what tolerances you need on any repair but way back in the day I'd make a patch panel to fit something like that, cut back all the rust and rivet it in place. You could then clean it up with fiberglass or bondo. I realize best way is to weld it but if that's not an option for you they do have structural epoxies ("structural" as far as panel repair but not for structural components on the car) such as 3M 8115. That might work if you're going to DIY. You really need to take it back to bare metal just from pic it looks like that entire panel may be compromised (inside under frame, to back side of jacking port etc). Also need to prime everything as best you can esp on inside. Good luck.

 

[CJM8515]

real way is of course to weld in new metal. but the decent way would be to cut out till you find good metal, treat with rust converter, then rivet new metal on as best you can, kitty hair bondo behind and over it. that will last.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

real way is of course to weld in new metal. but the decent way would be to cut out till you find good metal, treat with rust converter, then rivet new metal on as best you can, kitty hair bondo behind and over it. that will last.

Sorry, that will not last.

 

[cgrutt]

Is this the panel?

Lower Rocker Panel, Right

Rust repair part. Color may vary from photo. Requires weld in and work.

www.partsklassik.com

 

[CJM8515]

Sorry, that will not last.

of course, but thats not what the OP is looking for here. They are looking for a cheap fix

 

[NYBODYMAN]

of course, but thats not what the OP is looking for here. They are looking for a cheap fix

I'm just responding to what you wrote. You said...that will last.

 

[CJM8515]

I'm just responding to what you wrote. You said...that will last.

Oh, I see. I mean last is subjective here. 5 years tops maybe? who knows. Ive seen worse work last a long time and only found because they were doing corrective work to it. Not saying it was good work though lol.

of course the right way to fix it in almost all cases isnt what someone wants to do

 

[Rod N]

The panel above is what covers it.
I’m not worried about cosmetics.
I just want to slow down the rust.
The picture may look like there is more to it, but I don’t think it’s as bad as … don’t know. Lol
These are hand made cars and guys were laying down the seam seal everywhere. That’s why water was trapped.

 

[no704]

Keep cutting back until you find good metal. Nutrize the rust, weld in new panel. I’m a VW guy but I think that is a structural part of the car. Just do it as near to correct as you can. I would not be able to sleep if that was my car with a bondo job on that.

 

[mrbill55]

The panel above is what covers it.
I’m not worried about cosmetics.
I just want to slow down the rust.
The picture may look like there is more to it, but I don’t think it’s as bad as … don’t know. Lol
These are hand made cars and guys were laying down the seam seal everywhere. That’s why water was trapped.

The rocker panel needs to be cut out and a new panel welded in, the bondo showing is over 1/8" thick, which does not bode well for not only this side of the car, but I'm betting the other rocker panel as well. This is a structural part of your cars chassis, and should not be repaired haphazardly or poorly. Again, it's not a matter of slowing down the degradation, (covering rust over does not slow it down, only hide it) that has already occurred and been covered up by what we only assume was a previous owner., and not your younger self My sound advice, as a retired bodyshop owner and long time PCA member, if you cannot afford to repair the car properly at this time, take a step back, start saving your money until you can. Finally, don't allow your ego to override your common sense.

Bill

PS: Do not think of using structural glues for this repair, as the cars substructure was never designed for this type of bonding, where a modern car, using a multitude of different metallurgy and building techniques were.