how to get a garage plan relatively quickly

[newbIL]

help in getting a garage plan relatively quickly

My choices are:

1. Browse Houzz web site and find an architect who'd be willing to do a quick turn around and not charge too much. Then wait the time required to arrive at finished plan.

2. Download arch. trial software and do it myself. After the trial period, they charge monthly. Still way cheaper but prob very high steep learning curve. The County will let anyone do the plan (doesn't have to be licensed) as long as they get what they're looking for, the ususal including "cross-section," etc. I could probably, but would need guidance from those familiar with such plans to be submitted.

3. I already searched online like familyhomeplans.com, thegarageplanshop, justgarageplans, eplans, coolhouseplans, architecturaldesigns, thehousedesigners, dfdhouseplans, etc.

I've also googled & browsed through pinterest, looking for relevant links that'd lead me to plan site. But could not find a 2 car garage with single shed dormer (whose wall not in contact with garage car door wall), 26~28 wide and 24~26 deep. Like the photo but without the decorative columns. I also prefer a wider overhang, like perhaps 3'.

First time builder but eager to learn. Any suggestions, recommendations, leads to existing plans, referrals on architects/drafts-person? Thanks!

 

[WisJim]

I used 8.5 x 11 graph paper with 1/4" squares and ruler and pencil. Scanned the finished plan so I could email it or print a hard copy.

 

[dcg9381]

It looks like you're choosing from "houseplan.com" type of plans. I've bought at least one of those before (the CAD version) and modified it to suit.

It depends on what you're after. If you need a set of plans to satisfy an ACC board or issue a permit, it'd certainly work. However, plans are generic and things like the roof joists - they'll be built for a specific thing like "snow load" that may not work for you.

Around here, framers can work literally from a hand drawn napkin or you can spend $30k on a plan from an architect.

IMHO, many architects (here) are artists, not engineers. The engineering is done by the firm hired to design the slab and the trusses / joists, walls - all of that engineering is done by the company selling the lumber.

The value of a good plan (to me) is that companies that provide things like lumber and roof trusses - part of they will do for free (or for low cost) is do the engineering for you because they are selling product.

Easiest way around here to get a non-residential garage plan is to use software like Mueller.com has (steel building) - it can literally split out a plan in 20 minutes after you talk to the sales rep.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Land of Lincoln ? Illinois ?

Got Menards ? I think you can buy garage plans from them.

 

[nadogail]

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Jazz1]

My garage plan was included with the garage package from lumber yard. They had a variety of plans all adhering to local building code. Wife took plan to city hall and they gave her building permit right now. Only 2 inspections, final was for electrical.

 

[newbIL]

dcg9381, which software did you use to load in the CAD file? Because I'd like to extend the rake/eave overhang to 3'-4', I may lack the expertise to modify the file properly because of structural considerations? Unless simply extending the overhang to 3' or 4' is structurally sound. Also, I don't know how low the rake will end up being, above the garage door.

The County requires "construction drawings showing construction of the building, example: foundation plan, framing plan, cross sections, elevations, electrical plan, plumbing isometrics, and HVAC layout." They also require a site plan but that's separate issue involving a land surveyor, etc.

During the worst storm, the flood water has lapped at current garage door, so I may want to elevate the new garage slab floor using some type of infill. Just to be sure.

Truss roof sounds convenient, but because I'm using this building garage experience to help with my GC'ing future home which will use roof joists, I'd like to avoid using roof trusses for this garage. Lots of plans I've seen uses trusses. I'd like to build most of it myself, except maybe the concrete or anything else I find too difficult or if I run out of time.

NUTTSGT & Jazz1 - Good idea. Yes, I will check out Menards. But again, I'm looking for a shed dormer garage like the photo above with the garage car doors not on the gable side, also with wide eave/rake overhang. Roof joists, too. Maybe they can recommend someone who can modify their files, or perhaps some of you know someone who could help with that? Thanks.

 

[vavet]

Are you building it or hiring a GC? My GC had an architect he used to have my plans drawn. That's what he took to the county to get permits.
I just told him I wanted 24x32 with 12 foot ceiling, roof pitch had to be at least 6/12 to match the house, vinyl siding and brick facade on CMU stem walls had to match house, 3 4'x2' transom windows on each of the 32 foot walls and a 18x8 overhead door on the 24' wall. The GC took it from there.

 

[newbIL]

I plan to build most of it myself, so looking to get a plan via purchasing an existing plan (haven't found one close to what I'm envisioning so far), get an architect (don't know where to look except on Houzz website), or do it myself using downloaded software but it may take too long to learn to use the software, nevermind any additional required architectural knowledge.

 

[North Dakota]

I'm in the process of drawing my own. I went and bought huge graph paper from office depot and looked up the plan requirements and got to drawing. I'm turning my first draft in Monday and go from there best of all it's free

 

[matt_i]

My experience was to draw my own in CAD. I already had it (2D wireframe) for machining parts but 480" goes into the program as well as .0048".

The thing about drawing my own plans was that I worked out a lot of issues in the process ("built it on paper first"), had all of the stud and window locations laid out and a plan for the anchor bolt locations and the foundation/concrete details.

I was able to draw the plat (site plan) from a mortgage survey and the legal description, just measured the house exterior into the plan and put my addition on it.

But, I think a good set of large-sized architect laser prints will get you the same thing and you can start building from that without having to learn your way thru.

 

[Innovate1]

Re: help in getting a garage plan relatively quickly

My choices are:

1. Browse Houzz web site and find an architect who'd be willing to do a quick turn around and not charge too much. Then wait the time required to arrive at finished plan.

2. Download arch. trial software and do it myself. After the trial period, they charge monthly. Still way cheaper but prob very high steep learning curve. The County will let anyone do the plan (doesn't have to be licensed) as long as they get what they're looking for, the ususal including "cross-section," etc. I could probably, but would need guidance from those familiar with such plans to be submitted.

3. I already searched online like familyhomeplans.com, thegarageplanshop, justgarageplans, eplans, coolhouseplans, architecturaldesigns, thehousedesigners, dfdhouseplans, etc.

I've also googled & browsed through pinterest, looking for relevant links that'd lead me to plan site. But could not find a 2 car garage with single shed dormer (whose wall not in contact with garage car door wall), 26~28 wide and 24~26 deep. Like the photo but without the decorative columns. I also prefer a wider overhang, like perhaps 3'.

First time builder but eager to learn. Any suggestions, recommendations, leads to existing plans, referrals on architects/drafts-person? Thanks!

You say the AHJ expects "the usual". There is no such thing. Where I am for a residential house or garage all I need is a sketch of a wall cross section, a floor plan, and a site plan. 20 miles from here they go to the other extreme and expect stamped drawings with every detail. Just the notes takes 2 large drawing pages. So first you need to know exactly what the AHJ will accept.

If they accept hand drawn, unstamped (by an engineer) plans then you can draw them in pencil or on the computer. Depends on your skill level and desire. Or you can pay someone to do them. Or get a lumber yard to do them. It also depends on how fancy/detailed the building is. Is it just outside walls and a gable roof or something more?

Without a little more info it's hard to give you a solid recommendation.

Also depends on if you will be doing it yourself or hiring others. Detailed plans help when hiring others as people have different ideas on how things should be done.

 

[Innovate1]

I plan to build most of it myself, so looking to get a plan via purchasing an existing plan (haven't found one close to what I'm envisioning so far), get an architect (don't know where to look except on Houzz website), or do it myself using downloaded software but it may take too long to learn to use the software, nevermind any additional required architectural knowledge.

Got any examples of something close to what you want? Or sketches?

 

[Kaizen]

Land of Lincoln ? Illinois ?

Got Menards ? I think you can buy garage plans from them.

No menards near me so they shipped them. Thirty bucks and had plans for three variations in size with materials list. Oh engineer stamped as well. Get then and do more research on the dormer as an add on. Worth every penny


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[glentre]

Try Ryan Moe Designs. He's on the net. He did a complete set of custom drawings for my garage after I sent him some preliminary sketches and a few emails regarding what I wanted. All for only $750 total if I remember correctly. Worth contacting him.

Glen

 

[newbIL]

matt_i, what CAD software did you use? Or perhaps you mean one that wasn't specifically designed for construction drawing?

Perhaps I should buy an inexpensive garage plan with a shed dormer and study it even if I end up getting an architect.

(Because I'm planning a ~26x26 garage with a double car door on the eave side with particular shed dormer, very wide overhang, 2x6, & roof joists, I know I'd need to modify or create my own, see atitan.net/garage .)

Any recommendations on how to open online plan CAD files, one without a steep learning curve? Or I guess, I could just order a PDF version.

BTW, I went to Menards and turns out most of their plans I've already seen online. They also have a useful guides but mostly using roof trusses.

Innovate1, Yes, no such thing as usual. I should have mentioned, foundation/slab plan, framing plan, cross sections, elevations & electrical plan (as I won't include plumbing and HVAC on the submitted plan). Also, I should have said topological map instead of site plan. Yes, just like a survery except for the "topology lines/numbers."

glentre, thanks for the mention of Ryan Moe Designs. I've sent them an inquiry.

It didn't occur to me to study existing plans until many of you mentioned such. Now I just have to find an inexpensive one with all "my features" for me to study.

 

[rayra]

Are you thinking you are going to get it built / dried in before winter in IL?

 

[newbIL]

Yes, I know.

 

[nzjkb5]

What is the reason you need the garage door on the eave side? My understanding is that having the garage door on a gable end will cost less, due to the header above the door not having to support a roof load. A header spanning a double-wide door and having to support the roof load might be cost prohibitive. If is is a "square" (26x26) building, is there a specific reason you can't turn the roof 90 degrees, and have the door on the gable end?

 

[nadogail]

Your local lumber yard may have a pre approved package they can offer you if you get your material from them.

 

[newbIL]

nzjkb5, in order to complement the future house whose eave side will be visible from the street, I'd like to have the garage car door on the eave side facing towards the street as well.

I suppose I could either turn the garage roof around or use 2 single garage car doors. Uncertain which I'd choose.

 

[newbIL]

nzjkb5, I came across this article, finehomebuilding.com/2007/07/01/framing-a-strong-garage-door-opening , that used 2 LVLs as garage (also with dormer above) door header (don't know whether it's 16' or 18'). Assuming that's all one needs, I just it'd just cost 2~3x more than dimensional lumber.

 

[nzjkb5]

NewbIL, I was suggesting that you consider turning the roof 90 degrees, not moving the garage door(s) to the other side. If you need the gable end to face a certain direction for aesthetics, that is fine, I was just suggesting an option that might save some $. LVL beams are certainly an option, and if they fit into the budget, then do it!

 

[newbIL]

nzjkb5, yes I understood you. I'm saying that I could either rotate the roof or if I want to keep the eave view, I could use 2 single car doors thinking that it might cost less in terms of load support than having an 18' garage door.

Today, I put posts on my lawn 18' apart so I could drive in and park 2 cars through this imaginary garage door. So much better than 16' car door I currently have. But I was very surprised to see how long 18' really is. If needed, I can't open my inexpensive 16' garage door manually without help, nevermind an 18' one.

 

[ddawg16]

How big are you wanting to go?

I realize you want to build it yourself. Is it for cost or just because you want to?

If you are not 'cash poor', I'd suggest getting an architect to do it for you.....especially if it's a non standard garage. I did my own garage drawings, but I had to get a 'wet stamp' on the engineering calcs because my garage was 'non standard' (2-story)

If it had been a 'typical' garage....a sketch on a napkin would have been fine.

 

[newbIL]

Ideally, 26x26. At least 24', no more than 28' on width & 26' on depth. When I "measured it out," 26x26 gave me good room to exit cars (mini-SUV types, ~6'x15') and room for "shallow" shelf (less than 12") on sides of the garage. 26' depth gave me room enough in front and behind cars plus a deep shelf in back of the garage.

Cost? Mainly, yes. But also to leverage the experience so that when I "GC" my future home build, which would look similar to the garage, I can do time consuming tasks, and that I won't be expecting too much from the subs.

Yes, I'm sure I'd need an architect. See atitan.net/garage for details. I'm also looking for an inexpensive but "full" plan with similar features to buy so I can study the plans.

 

[bad_idea]

Try Ryan Moe Designs. He's on the net. He did a complete set of custom drawings for my garage after I sent him some preliminary sketches and a few emails regarding what I wanted. All for only $750 total if I remember correctly. Worth contacting him.

Glen

I second that emotion. Ryan drew up my garage plans also. Mine were fairly simple and were cheaper IIRC. I had an issue with the design the county didn't like (I'm in a high wind zone), and Ryan fixed it no charge. I later had questions on nailing patterns and header assembly (framed it myself), and Ryan emailed me additional details - also no charge. Great guy to work with and very quick.

 

[NUTTSGT]

nzjkb5, I came across this article, finehomebuilding.com/2007/07/01/framing-a-strong-garage-door-opening , that used 2 LVLs as garage (also with dormer above) door header (don't know whether it's 16' or 18'). Assuming that's all one needs, I just it'd just cost 2~3x more than dimensional lumber.

Nothing wrong with double LVLs, it'll be strong.

Today, I put posts on my lawn 18' apart so I could drive in and park 2 cars through this imaginary garage door. So much better than 16' car door I currently have. But I was very surprised to see how long 18' really is. If needed, I can't open my inexpensive 16' garage door manually without help, nevermind an 18' one.

If you can't open the 16' manually, then there's something wrong. It needs a different spring or more tension on the spring.

 

[CraigStu]

I recommend that you get a design program. Might as well go through the learning curve now so you will be ready to do your house. I used one from HGTV to design our house. I took the simple floor plans from our builders website, scanned them in and started modifying. Mine were just floor plans but it was so helpful to draw them in 2 d, switch to 3d, and be able to walk through the house virtually. I used it also to figure out kitchen cabinet placement, how large we could make the island, and where we could place our existing furniture. We were also able to look at the exterior which helped a lot w/ window placement. I made a lot of changes and emailed back and forth w/ the builder. When we had my plan finalized, his draftsman did the official drawings based on mine. The program was about $70 so really inexpensive in the overall scheme.

 

[newbIL]

If you can't open the 16' manually, then there's something wrong. It needs a different spring or more tension on the spring.

I'm neither tall enough nor strong enough to raise the garage door all the way up and over. I was on a step ladder to disconnect the door (yes, I should have tied a longer string to pull the disconnect component while standing on ground) to close the door, I couldn't keep the door from racing down.

I was trying to weigh the door, to get proper springs, so had placed a scale on the ground. The door slammed on the scale and made it look like upside down gable roof.

I have to press the wall button twice to close the door. The first time the door retreats after moving for a foot or two. The second press must be held down while the door closes all the way. So, the remote can't be used to close the door. Only to open it.

Adjusting the open/close strength button and another set of knobs, prob delimiters, didn't help at all but made it worse in some cases.

Also, the spring on one side looked like a giant had stretched it in the middle. I started replacing the pair of springs with 160# pair Menards recommended. Didn't help at all. Worse. I got a 140# pair because its diameter looked the same as the original. The door kept retreating after moving a foot or two no matter how many times I press the button to close or holding the button down. Spring too strong I thought. Maxing close strength knob didn't help.

So I installed 90# pair and the door closed just the same way. But when I press for opening, it'd rise only a foor or two. Adjusting open/close strength and delimiters didn't help.

I did notice the motor housing/case getting very warm/hot and the motor becoming unresponsive for a while during this testing.

So I went to 120# and now it works just as before. I dialed down the open/close strength knobs and slowly increased until the door closes, albeit with 2 presses, and opens as before.

The top panel of the garage door is cracked and someone placed a wooden piece that spans the panel vertically in the middle of the panel so the curved metal door arm is about an inch or two away from where it should be.

The rollers at the top of the top panels are loose. Someone also had tied wires to keep it in place. From visual inspection and checking the rollers manually, I don't see anything wrong with the rollers nor the side guides, but I'm sure it's some combination of the cracked garage door panel, rollers and the two guides. I do hear lots of banging and creaking noises when the door moves but I can't locate their source.

The cheapest door (the current measures around 15') costs $500 + guides and I won't reuse it in the new garage (2 single doors or better looking 18' door) if it gets built next year at the latest. I considered installing them myself but won't because I haven't done it and I tend to take on more projects than I should, so will live with it for a while longer.

 

[tailshaft56]

If I was building new my preference would be 2 single doors. Look close at the top of any double door in an older garage and you will see the sag in the header. that may may not be a problem with newer manufactured laminate beams or as an earlier poster mentioned door on gable end.

 

[newbIL]

If I was building new my preference would be 2 single doors. Look close at the top of any double door in an older garage and you will see the sag in the header. that may may not be a problem with newer manufactured laminate beams or as an earlier poster mentioned door on gable end.

Yes, I'm concerned about the beam sagging, and 18' wide garage door flexing and stressing the system leading to less than smooth operation after a while.

Would metal beam fix sagging issue? How much more would that cost?

Question for you: Would you opt for a double garage door if you could get headers that would not sag without costing more?

 

[matt_i]

Yes, I'm concerned about the beam sagging, and 18' wide garage door flexing and stressing the system leading to less than smooth operation after a while.

Would metal beam fix sagging issue? How much more would that cost?

Question for you: Would you opt for a double garage door if you could get headers that would not sag without costing more?

The LVL header is the way to go. More rigid and straighter than a 2x12.

Steel is directionally correct but drives larger complexity in design, fabrication and attachments back to the wood = more expense to the project. With LVL the tools and fabrication are same as traditional stick framing (pencil, square, circular saw, screws, nails)

 

[MattRMagnum]

If you have an architect draw up all the plans/blueprints/etc, I would STRONGLY recommend having an engineer -either with that firm, or separately- review it.

Years ago, when a former employer was doing a multi-million dollar renovation on an office, we discovered that someone had skipped an engineer's review to save money, and the architect had specified a single power box per office, and no network or coax. The cost to have the construction company stop work while we paid for an engineer to review and fix the designs was immense.

Yes, that's a larger scale than a simple garage, but the lesson learned from it is still pretty valid.