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How to get bits on a 1/2 drive impact?

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bandit25

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Hey all,

I finally ordered the impact gun I've been looking at for a while. One of the first things I need to do with it is try and get out a stuck Torx bolt.

My question is, how do I get the Torx bit onto the 1/2 drive impact? I looked online for adapters, couldn't find anything.

Thanks!
 
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bandit25

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I'm just looking to get a normal hex bit onto my 1/2" drive impact.

I just realized the hex bits are 1/4", aren't they? So I could just use a 1/2" drive 1/4 impact socket...
 
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bandit25

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Von Psycho said:
Go to a major hardware/automotive outlet and buy a socket or socket set with
torx bits already in them and don't bother trying to adapt.
Click to expand...

Normally I would, but we're looking to move overseas soon so I'm working on keeping my tools as bare as possible. If there wasn't an option for getting an adapter, then I'd get the set
 
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LB-1911

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Last edited:
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bandit25

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RedneckWelder said:
This.

Grey Pnuematic and Sunex both make some affordable torx sockets.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R6W1NG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Click to expand...

Looks good but doesn't have the size I need, T20. Thanks though!


LB-1911 said:
1/2" drive to 1/4" hex bit adapter


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154330
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm still not fully awake and didn't realize when I posted this that the hex bits are 1/4". I kept seeing 1/2 to 1/4 adapters and passing them off because it wasn't what I was looking for... Thanks for the link!
 
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bandit25

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Hmm any recommendations, then? I've gone through 2 T20 bits trying to get this thing off (they just snap), so I figured an impact would be better because it won't stretch as much.
 
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shockwave

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If you have a stuck torx a impact hand driver will be best instead of a big 1/2 impact especially on a t20

You can also try spiral extractors from Irwin
 
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n8n

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bandit25 said:
I'm just looking to get a normal hex bit onto my 1/2" drive impact.

I just realized the hex bits are 1/4", aren't they? So I could just use a 1/2" drive 1/4 impact socket...
Click to expand...

Yes, or something like this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S7FCG4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

been on my wish list for a while now as I would use it for screwdriver bits for my hand impact as well (bought some Vessel brand bits that don't come with their own semi-permanently attached adapters like the Snap-On ones do, but I wanted to have some JIS in case I needed to work on Japanese stuff.)

I think the one I linked is for 5/16" not 1/4" though. (impact bits are often 5/16") But check out Wiha's catalog I bet they make something. I was originally looking at a Proto adapter because I wanted to stay US made but it said "not for impact use."

I would use a hand impact or a shake 'n' break before I'd use a 1/2" impact gun though in your situation.
 
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superautobacs

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Agreed with the other people suggesting a hand impact driver.

A few weeks back, I was experiencing four, seriously stuck T-30 set screws on brake rotors and the hand impact driver came in handy.

To start, I had a 1/2 drive (impact-rated) T-30 socket that shattered after only removing one set screw. I then twisted two bits: my regular 1/4 drive bit and a Snap-on 3/8 drive bit socket. I decided the hand impact driver needed to be employed. It did a better job, although shattering another 3/8 drive (heavy duty version) Snap-on bit socket. Luckily I was able to finish the job off with the use of a co-workers (already twisted) Snap-on bit socket.

Make sure to get non-tamper-proof bits. Also consider beefier 5/16 drive bits instead of regular 1/4 drive bits.
 
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dsimatt

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Snap-on has torx sockets that are gold colored and they are really strong and i haven't broke one yet where i went thru cheaper ones alot in the common sizes.

At this point thou you might just have to drill it out, is it seized in place?
 
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n8n

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superautobacs said:
Agreed with the other people suggesting a hand impact driver.

A few weeks back, I was experiencing four, seriously stuck T-30 set screws on brake rotors and the hand impact driver came in handy.

To start, I had a 1/2 drive (impact-rated) T-30 socket that shattered after only removing one set screw. I then twisted two bits: my regular 1/4 drive bit and a Snap-on 3/8 drive bit socket. I decided the hand impact driver needed to be employed. It did a better job, although shattering another 3/8 drive (heavy duty version) Snap-on bit socket. Luckily I was able to finish the job off with the use of a co-workers (already twisted) Snap-on bit socket.

Make sure to get non-tamper-proof bits. Also consider beefier 5/16 drive bits instead of regular 1/4 drive bits.
Click to expand...

Agreed with all, but I've had better luck with a shake 'n' break than I have with a hand impact, although both will do things that just aren't possible with a normal hand screwdriver. A wrench on the bolster may tear up the bit or screw head, but impact or vibration will actually work the fastener loose without damage.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Need to use it with an air hammer obviously.
 
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bandit25

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dsimatt said:
Snap-on has torx sockets that are gold colored and they are really strong and i haven't broke one yet where i went thru cheaper ones alot in the common sizes.

At this point thou you might just have to drill it out, is it seized in place?
Click to expand...

Someone linked the gold Snap-on one earlier, looks beefy (and pricey).

It seems to be stuck, but I'm not sure if I just had crappy Torx bits (2 snapped and 1 twisted too far gone).

This is for the throttle body on my Jeep. This is actually a used one off eBay I bought recently because guess what, I snapped off the heads of the Torx bolts on the original one. These seem to be just as stuck, and don't want to risk twisting these heads off.

On that original one, I tried extracting the bolts out of the body. Couldn't even drill into them, felt like they were hardened. Having a drill press may have worked, but I don't have one. Said screw it, bought a new one.

I'll try out a hand impact, and a 5/16 bit if I can find one locally. Thanks for the tip!
 
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n8n

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If you're going to be using a hand impact, also try just setting the bit in the screw head and giving it a few sharp raps with a hammer before you start. Try some penetrating oil etc. Try every trick you have, stuck screws **** and can ruin your day as you are already finding out.

Can you use heat on the part that the screws thread into, or are there coatings etc. that can be messed up?
 
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RedneckWelder

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Someone linked the gold Snap-on one earlier, looks beefy (and pricey).
Click to expand...

The $24 for it is very much worth it when it saves the aggravation. The gold colored SO heavy duty bits are the best by far and what I prefer.

Get some Kroil and a hand impact driver to get 'er done. Also I would wonder if there is some red loctite on those fasteners.
 
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CJM8515

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Drill it out. Ive done it multiple times. Drill just enough to get the head out then use PBlaster and vise grips to get rest out.
 
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superautobacs

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n8n said:
Agreed with all, but I've had better luck with a shake 'n' break than I have with a hand impact, although both will do things that just aren't possible with a normal hand screwdriver. A wrench on the bolster may tear up the bit or screw head, but impact or vibration will actually work the fastener loose without damage.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Need to use it with an air hammer obviously.
Click to expand...


I never know just a product existed. :thumbup:

In my case, I applied vibrations to the screw head using a pin punch with a hammer. Of course, with penetrating lubricant applied as well.

In hindsight, I should've just applied heat to the screws...just enough heat to soften the blue locktite. Why Mercedes Benz uses loctite on rotor set screws is beyond me. :dunno:


WhiffySpark said:
If you're talking about a rotor set screw just drill it out. You don't need them
Click to expand...

That doesn't apply to all vehicles. It would be a huge PITA/inconvenience on certain vehicles if there were no set screw.
 
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SAATR

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Propane torch on the bolt could help break break it loose. It's likely a combination of some kind of locking compound and dissimilar metal corrosion. I would heat the bolt, insert the socket and give it a couple of good wacks with a hammer, then use a ratchet or the hand impact driver.
 
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bandit25

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On the first one that I had, where I broke off both bolt heads, I tried heating it with a torch, I tried freezing it, I tried PB Blaster as well as the Acetone/ATF mix, and I still ripped the heads off. Bolts are stubborn...

On this one, I shot the bolts with some Acetone/ATF every day for about a week until today. I got a hand impact, but alas, it ripped off a bolt head... At least the bit is still okay... I'm going to just leave it alone for now I think, the thing is enough of a headache as it is.

Any tips for removing the remaining threads? If it's anything like the last one, even a hardened steel drill bit won't cut in with a hand drill (no drill press).
 
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dsimatt

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bandit25 said:
Someone linked the gold Snap-on one earlier, looks beefy (and pricey).

It seems to be stuck, but I'm not sure if I just had crappy Torx bits (2 snapped and 1 twisted too far gone).
Click to expand...

You pay the price once and it will last, you answered your question like I had for a long time using cheaper bits that snapped so easy.

Is the bolt in aluminum because that corrodes up pretty bad, also I've had bolts that strip the heads and after drilling it off the tension goes away and you can unscrew it by hand.
 
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WhiffySpark

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superautobacs said:
Just another tactic on their part to make working on their vehicles more challenging for the "backyard" mechanic/DIY types.
Click to expand...

I have studs for that. I could care less if there's no set screw. Just insert the stud then put the wheel over it
 
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