How to hang over head door tracks?

[HIG]

I could really use some ideas on how to mount my brackets that will hold my 10'x10' OHD tracks.

This is my garage:

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I've come across these pics while searching.

It looks like they cut the metal and screwed the angle right to the truss.

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Here it they just did short brackets screwed to the truss, I like this idea I just am wondering is 2 lag screws per side enough to hold 10'x10' doors?

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Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

 

[James-W]

Is having a regular overhead door carved into stone, or would you consider a roll-up door?

If you go thru the metal and into the rafters/trusses that would work out well. I would think two lag screws of the right size and length into the rafters/trusses on each side would be sufficient to hold up the door.

 

[Stuart in MN]

There really isn't much load or stress on the track hangers, so you don't need a lot to hold them up. In my garage I have a couple 2x4 stubs sticking down that I screwed into the sides of the bottom chords of the trusses, and the hangers are screwed to the sides of the 2x4s. I cut bevels on the four sides of the bottom of the 2x4s to dress them up a little.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Use the punched angle as you showed but do not cut the metal ceiling. Use 5/16 x 3" lags and cut spacers out of 1/2 " PVC pipe. This will drop the hanger 1" lower but the primary stress is straight down, so those hangers will work. The diagonal is to keep the rails from spreading. Just be sure to measure diagonals before drilling into that ceiling. A square plus B square equals C square. Also it is ok to back hang up to 20% cantilevered on the track if you need to.

 

[HotrodHR]

You should add a header and blocking above your doors to mount your garage door hardware, not to mention beefing up your opening. Consider installing a high lift track system that moves the open door closer to the ceiling... here's a website that has some good info and videos:

https://ddmgaragedoors.com/

 

[HIG]

Is having a regular overhead door carved into stone, or would you consider a roll-up door?

If you go thru the metal and into the rafters/trusses that would work out well. I would think two lag screws of the right size and length into the rafters/trusses on each side would be sufficient to hold up the door.

I'd say I'm committed to the overhead doors. Roll up doors are not common in my area for some reason.

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Thanks, Steve

 

[HIG]

There really isn't much load or stress on the track hangers, so you don't need a lot to hold them up. In my garage I have a couple 2x4 stubs sticking down that I screwed into the sides of the bottom chords of the trusses, and the hangers are screwed to the sides of the 2x4s. I cut bevels on the four sides of the bottom of the 2x4s to dress them up a little.

Thank you.

 

[HIG]

Use the punched angle as you showed but do not cut the metal ceiling. Use 5/16 x 3" lags and cut spacers out of 1/2 " PVC pipe. This will drop the hanger 1" lower but the primary stress is straight down, so those hangers will work. The diagonal is to keep the rails from spreading. Just be sure to measure diagonals before drilling into that ceiling. A square plus B square equals C square. Also it is ok to back hang up to 20% cantilevered on the track if you need to.

I like that idea, I was thinking of just cutting wood blocks but then I'd have to paint them, PVC pipe is good to go!!

Thanks for suggesting the 5/16" x 3" lag bolts, I was wondering what size to use!!

I will have my track ends cantilevered some since my trusses are 2' on center, 20% is good to know.

What do you mean by "A square plus B square equals C square", I know I can take a diagonal measurement and I can also use the 3-4-5 method to check for squareness?

Thanks, Steve

 

[HIG]

You should add a header and blocking above your doors to mount your garage door hardware, not to mention beefing up your opening. Consider installing a high lift track system that moves the open door closer to the ceiling... here's a website that has some good info and videos:

https://ddmgaragedoors.com/

Thanks for the advice. I have added a headers and blocking to the inside and wrapped them in vinyl trim, I will include pics.

My front doors are 10'x10's with 12' ceilings so I went with standard tracks. In the back I have a 9'x7' and I purchased the high lift track for that door.

Thanks again, Steve

 

[vrinner]

View media item 93369
Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

My suggestion would be don't use your car as a workbench! Looks like a GNX but maybe no with the chrome bumper.

All kidding aside...following this thread to see what you come up with.

 

[rburke65]

Of course the diagonal bracing is there to just keep the overhead track parallel. The lags will be more than enough to carry the weight of the door. Take your time.....ya don’t want a lot of holes in your metal liner.

 

[Monza Harry]

I
What do you mean by "A square plus B square equals C square", I know I can take a diagonal measurement and I can also use the 3-4-5 method to check for squareness?
Thanks, Steve

A Squared + B Squared = C squared is the 3,4,5 method, 3^2 + 4^2 = 5^2
9+16 = 25, Square Root of 25 = 5 these are the lengths of the sides of the triangle, or AKA Pythagorean Theorem Harry

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

As an installer, we would cheat by building the door 100%, wind up the springs and open the door a little (no more than a couple of feet) without any backhanging and lock the door in the position with vice grips so the door couldn't open any more. Then back hang. Yes you measure the diagonals to be sure you are square to the header. Many people assume a new building must be square so the measure off a side wall and often have trouble with the door binding.

 

[HIG]

As an installer, we would cheat by building the door 100%, wind up the springs and open the door a little (no more than a couple of feet) without any backhanging and lock the door in the position with vice grips so the door couldn't open any more. Then back hang. Yes you measure the diagonals to be sure you are square to the header. Many people assume a new building must be square so the measure off a side wall and often have trouble with the door binding.

Thanks for the advice. What do you mean by back hang?

Thanks, Steve

 

[NUTTSGT]

Towards the end of my Garage Refurb thread, you can see what I did.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Just went back through my thread to find what I was talking about above.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75024&page=92

Scroll down to Post #1830

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Back hang is just a term for hanging the back end of the track.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My suggestion would be don't use your car as a workbench! Looks like a GNX but maybe no with the chrome bumper.

All kidding aside...following this thread to see what you come up with.

LOL, I was just checking back into this thread and just noticed the car in the picture. I'm guessing either a GN or T-Type.


A few more pics of the car wouldn't hurt.

 

[HIG]

A Squared + B Squared = C squared is the 3,4,5 method, 3^2 + 4^2 = 5^2
9+16 = 25, Square Root of 25 = 5 these are the lengths of the sides of the triangle, or AKA Pythagorean Theorem Harry

Thank you!!

 

[HIG]

Just went back through my thread to find what I was talking about above.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75024&page=92

Scroll down to Post #1830

That's a very clean way of doing it, it looks great.

I know what I'll be doing during lunch today - going through your refurb thread.

Thanks

 

[HIG]

LOL, I was just checking back into this thread and just noticed the car in the picture. I'm guessing either a GN or T-Type.


A few more pics of the car wouldn't hurt.

Sorry, that was a pic from this site stole for reference, unfortunately, that is not my car.

 

[maxpat82]

I just am wondering is 2 lag screws per side enough to hold 10'x10' doors?

my 9x10 is hold temporary by 2 deck screw through a small piece of 2x4 in the truss on each side and the railing are hold on by a 1x3 straping and a single wood screw on each end. (It,s not even triangulated at the moment)
I open the door every week without any stress if you ask me.

My final install will be with 2 1/4" lag screw. on each side.


I would either cut the steel ridge or shim with a strip of plywood.