How to heat existing three-car attached garage...

[D-train]

I have an existing three car garage (35x23) with natural gas in the Chicago area. I am looking to maintain it at about 58-65 (24hrs)thru the winter. I have have a 10 foot ceiling in the double bay, and about 12 feet in the single bay. The single bay has a lift with a car usually raised in it. I am restoring a car, so I will have solvents and paints (among other things) in the garage. ...and then there's the wood refinishing projects.

I was going to go with a Reznor 60k BTU (UDAP-60)unit that I got for free. But got smart and realized that I need a unit with the separate exterior combustible air intake. So that would be the Reznor UDAS-60.

But should I also consider an infrared unit(s) or a ceiling radiant tube heater?
So my questions are:
--Are the radiant and infrared heaters as safe as the exterior intake forced air units?
--with the different ceiling heights and obstructions, line of site for the infrared and radiant heaters might be a problem. (if that is even a factor)
--Which of the three choices would be the most efficient?
--Which of the three are most comfortable?
--If I go with the infrared or radiant, what BTU should I go with. ...and should I go with multiple small ones.

My assumptions:
--The infrared shouldn't be running that 24 hours. (if so, that would disqualify that)
--The radiant heat tube can run off of a thermostat 24/7.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[jabelding]

So your worried about having enough solvent in the air to have an explosive environment? If that is the case you have way more problems than just the heater everything in your shop ie electrical motors ect.. would need to be explosion proof. If it is a ceiling mounted unit I wouldn't worry about it I doubt you would ever have enough solvent in the air to cause an issue. I am a fire fighter and it takes a lot of solvent to make a explosive environment. If your worried you should probably invest in a exhaust fan because it would be way more dangerous to your health than the explosion risk.

 

[Showkey]

Most and the vast majority of people with garage or shop heaters do NOT have outside air intakes.

 

[loganb]

Agree, at the point the air is potent enough to be a legit explosive concern there will have been health concerns long before. However I was considering the same unit for mine as I liked the concept and do primarily woodworking but moved instead and will be doing a mini split with backup electric heat.

If I was going to be putting a new furnace in and it was gas or propane I would likely lean in the direction you are just as piece of mind is important to me and that would be a bit more of it for what I consider a relatively minor cost. Everyone's opinions though will vary

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[frankush]

I too would probably go with the sealed combustion chamber. 60K may be more than you need, unless you insulation is lacking.

 

[Jaja]

I had a UDAS unit. I felt that the price difference was a bargin for the insurance it offered. I'd be kicking myself if the place burnt down and an extra $300 could have prevented it.

Don't worry about the efficiency. In a typical garage it won't matter. Focus on keeping the cold out instead.

Do some research, I think a Reznor non separated (UDAP) can be converted to a Separated (UDAS). Take a look at the parts diagram.

In the case of the separated combustion units, it's the cost of the airbox and combo intake /exhaust vent that drives up the price.

 

[SALIV8]

The infrared ceiling tube heaters are awesome. At my tech college they had one in the shop. However, it was nice and warm under the tube but no so much elsewhere.

That being said I would go nat gas modine/reznor type Suspended from the ceiling in a corner to distribute the heat if I made this decision.

Additionally, if you do not have cooling currently (and thinking about ac) I would go with a minisplit heat pump.

 

[finn]

I can’t remember if Illinois is like Michigan, ie, is one of the state’s that restricts the availability of high voc paints and solvents.

Paint with modern, low voc is much different than the high voc stuff we used years ago.

If you feel better about a closed combustion system, go for it, but, with an attached garage, I would prioritize a good ventilation system over a more expensive heater.

 

[D-train]

Thanks all,

I started with the 60k Reznor (UDAP-60) because I got an unused one free. I did wonder if they had a kit to change it over to an external air intake. I don't see one in their manual. ...and I can't find one online. I will check their manual again for a support phone number and give them a call.

As for the solvents and such... If I do spray something with an oil base or even a lot of brake clean on something... I didn't think that would be a problem as I can open the door to let things air out. My concern would be if something happened while I wasn't in there. ...like a slow gradual buildup over night. (remember I want to keep it at 58-65) Like if a container was accidentally left open.

UPDATED-Reznor doesn't make a retro kit to change the UDAP-60 to a UDAS-60.

Mark

 

[loganb]

To get a vapor concentration worthy of being a concern from a flammability point in a garage that size you will either need to be working with huge quanities or something far more potent then anything I'm aware of that would be found in a home shop. The larger risk IMO is going to be a gas leak off the heater line, carbon monoxide build up or conventional self igniton from a pile of solvent soaked rags that are left out

If it was me(and I'm going thru similar mental things with being back to an attached garage):

Fire extinguishers-get several name brand ones and place around the space
Get excess flammable materials out of there, put the balance in a metal flammable storage cabinet
Rated metal flammable waste can for rags
Quality smoke and carbon monoxide detectors with an alarm that goes off in the house so you can hear it




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[PWC Repair]

Hot water fan coil. You could tie in to the existing hot water with an exchanger.

 

[Jackfre]

Rinnai EX38. Sealed combustion. Plenty of capacity assuming decent insulation.

 

[Randy in Maine]

ow do you heat the rest of the house? If it is forced hot water, your boiler may be large enough to add a zone to heat the garage.