How to identify body dollies?

[Ben LeBlanc]

I am in the market for some body tools and after taking a trip down to my local expert, Fay Butler, I have my priorities and shopping list. He told me that I get what I pay for, and my purchase will be a life long investment that I will never need to make again. I have given up trying to find them at local flea markets...

So, on eBay there are some dollies posted. The heel and toe set. Now snap on only etches the dolly and the etching on the set supposedly wore out. How am I sure that some high dollar dollies I buy are in fact what I am paying for? Is there some secret to look out for?


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[bluebolt]

I would like to know too!

 

[txvwnut]

Honestly a body dolly is something you need to buy from a body shop tool dealer. I've got few that are made by Martin tool and then some unkown manufacturers. The deal with them is you want it heavy so it will absorb the vibration from striking the panel. Mine all run in the 2lb range and I feel that's the lightest dolly you would ever want in your hand.

 

[Ben LeBlanc]

Honestly a body dolly is something you need to buy from a body shop tool dealer. I've got few that are made by Martin tool and then some unkown manufacturers. The deal with them is you want it heavy so it will absorb the vibration from striking the panel. Mine all run in the 2lb range and I feel that's the lightest dolly you would ever want in your hand.

True. Fay told me that you want it to be as heavy as can be. The thing is that you are paying for the quality of metal used, so the worse dollies will sing more and will need to be resurfaced more.

Something I lack is a belt/disc sander and complimentary buff wheel.

So I need one that will last with minimal resurfacing, and you can trust snap on. Fay told me that he is unsure of how the quality of Martin is going as of late due to it being owned by fairmount.

But I cannot pay 70 bucks for a body dolly, and that is what snap on wants. So I am looking for second hand as a result.


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[JeepsAreBuilt]

are you asking what brand to buy or type/shape ? I think martin dollies are the cheapest you can get as far as good quality. They are what I have.. and have no problems with them. They look almost identical to the snapon, cornwell, matco ones.

 

[Hammer1963]

A good body dolly will have a feel of depth to it like a good hammer does. You are looking for forged pieces vs cast items. I know that brands are difficult to distinguish due to most only etch their names on the tool and there is a reason for that. Number one: most dollies use the entire tool surface for working purposes as very few have voids built into them. Those that do will usually have an area with the name forged into it. An example would be a larger anvil dolly. Second reason: there are very few companies left that do make quality forged body tools and it makes sense to etch a company name as many tool companies can use the same manufacturer for these items. For many years, Martin produced MAC, Cornwell, Craftsman, some Snap-on and Matco items. Matco has sense found a Taiwanese company to source their tools from.

Some people will advise you to just buy old one and refinish them yourself. Trust me, old does not always translate into better as like anything else, there have always been various degrees of quality in body tools. If you'd like, contact me via private message and I can help you find what you are looking for. Chances are I will have multiple options that will fit your wants and needs

 

[54FordPanel]

I would go with Martin, they are listed at Autobody Toolmart as being American made.

This is their 'mid-priced' set. You could go down in pieces and get a set cheaper. I have this set, it will outlast me, and they seemed to be well made.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/martin-17-piece-body-fender-repair-tool-set-691k-p-16366.aspx

 

[Doc]

If you are making your living with body tools, spend the money on the best. If you are doing an occasional fender or rear quarter martins are absolutely perfect. The goal is to get the metal into shape without beating it into submission, stretching or overly hardening. IMHO, I would spend the money on better hammers before the dolly.... Since buying my stud gun, I have cut my dolly use in half and I am just the novice hobbyist.

 

[countryroad82]

Fay told me that he is unsure of how the quality of Martin is going as of late due to it being owned by fairmount.

I believe you have that backwards. Fairmount was bought out by Martin back in the 80s I believe. My Martin hammers and dollies are from the mid 90s-early 00s when I started getting heavy in panel beating. I have compared mine to some of the old guys' stuff I have worked with and don't see much of a difference. Main one I see is my hammers are fiberglass handled while most old guys have wood. As for you original question were it me I would rather buy that stuff somewhere I can inspect it face to face. For me it's hard to toss out the kind of cash for some of this stuff without inspecting it up close and personal. It's like I've been on the lookout for years for a Fairmount/Martin 'mule ****' hammer. It's one of those things I know I'll not use very often but I have seen times one would have been handy. But for the life of me I can't spend what I keep finding them on eBay and such without being able to verify its not the real deal!

 

[countryroad82]

Oh and look out. Eastwood has started making its own line of Chicom body tools. They look pretty nice but they're a little pricey IMO. But guess what the name is? Fairmount.

 

[ritestuff]

If you can find used Porter Ferguson dollies and hammers for the right price, they are "the ****".

 

[hemifalcon]

Keep your eye out at the flea markets and estate sales.. Also any auctions with old tools even on farms.. That's where I've found all of mine--even some very odd shaped ones. Any that are painted blue or red are likely newer junk like is sold at HF.. However, if you're not doing body work for a living or hammering metal to death (stretching it), you shouldn't wear out a dolly anyway..

 

[Zeke]

All of my dollies and indeed some of my hammers are used and therefore unknown. I have a few that are homemade out of mild steel, things like rounds and squares. They seem to work fine given that I know what I'm doing. You shouldn't be hitting the metal very hard to begin with.

 

[back2class]

100%...they are crude tools. Sure, using them day in and out the difference will be worth the cost of good ones. But for occasional use....just buy cheap chicom ones. Even a pro could use them to great results. They may not hold up as well....but again, if you are just a hobby guy...you will not know the difference.

 

[ZRX61]

I have Fairmount (the original, not the Eastwoods useless cheap **** copies) & Martin. They are identical apart from the name.

Porter Ferguson are worth hunting down, as are Plomb/Proto... especially the 1427 hammer.

Check www.tptools.com for Martin prices.. & they carry more of the range than ABTM. Don't bother with SnapOn, they are likely made by Martin anyway with a 100% mark up for the S/O label.

Streamline are ok(ish) if you can find them used.

Sunchaser are even more proud of their tools than SnapOn.... Avoid.

& now the controversy:
Some* Horrible Fright dollies are actually ok, as is their slapping spoon. It's just a heavier copy of the Fairmount/Martin

Don't forget you can make an awesome assortment of slapping spoons from various car leaf springs if you have the gubbins to fabricate them & finish them

* by some I mean one of them. I'll get a pic.....

 

[ZRX61]

1 & 2: Horrible Fright Left, Porter Ferguson right. The HF dolly was originally only finished on the crowned surface. I went at it & refinished the sides, the skinny end & the fat end. The skinny end is great for drip rails.

3 & 4: L to R, Martin, Fairmount, Horrible Fright.

5 & 6: Porter Ferguson A6.

 

[ZRX61]

It's like I've been on the lookout for years for a Fairmount/Martin 'mule ****' hammer.

You'll be lucky to get one for less than $45. Around here they are called Horse *****. I have a much smaller than normal Plomb version that I call the Dog ****. The head is only about 4in long. The face is about 1x 1/4in & it was cracked about half way along it. I TIG welded the crack up & it works perfectly

 

[JeepsAreBuilt]

You'll be lucky to get one for less than $45. Around here they are called Horse *****. I have a much smaller than normal Plomb version that I call the Dog ****. The head is only about 4in long. The face is about 1x 1/4in & it was cracked about half way along it. I TIG welded the crack up & it works perfectly

I call that one Donkey ****.

I got mine off the cornwell truck.. pretty sure it was made by martin tools.. was on sale for 30-35 bucks. I use it quite extensively

 

[countryroad82]

Yeah that's my problem. I don't think I would use it all that much so I hate to spend that much on a hammer I'm pretty sure will lay in the drawer......... But then again I was dumb enough to buy a shrinking hammer and dolly.... Very few times have I used those items.

 

[Grigg]

Used flea market dollies are hit and miss for me. Some I've bought are hard and useful, some seem OK enough to buy but turn out to be too soft and mark easily. The clearly cast iron and or heavily marked ones I pass on, they're going to be too soft.

Best bet is just buy new Martin, they're affordable considering the good quality.