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How to install MDF panel on drywall ceiling

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bradleydavidgood

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Nov 19, 2024
Messages
94
Hi,

I want to install 1/8" thick MDF panel on my drywall ceiling in my garage. Like these:


I have a pancake compressor with a craftsman brad nailer that I've used in the past to nail cedar tongue and groove to the ceiling, using construction adhesive also. But that was much thicker and gave the brads something more to grab.

Do you think that method would work with this 1/8" panel that are 4' x 8'? I'm going to be installing it mostly myself so will need to manage the thing overhead with 2 x 4's wedged in holding it up to install it. So I want the easiest method that will also hold well.

Or do I use construction adhesive with finishing nails? And if so, from a gun like this?

Or with a hammer and finishing nails or panel nails?

Thanks for the help!
 
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bradleydavidgood

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larry4406 said:
Perhaps use spray contact cement? It is not forgiving at all.

MDF and moisture are not friends. I would not want MDF in a garage.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I don't want to spray anything.

The garage is absolutely 100% dry. Is that still a problem just due to condensation and such? I mean it's really dry in there.
 
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jack stand

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Lakes Region Maine
You might want to take a 8' straight edge and wonder all around on the ceiling first inspecting for flatness.
Wallboard itself will not hold a nail so you'll need a construction adhesive and a nail long enough to hit the framing with a decent head, like a 1" siding nail.
Then you'll have to mark out the framing.
I'd almost think about strapping & shimming the ceiling first to insure the new panels seam tightly to each other would be the way to go.
This is also going to be a 2 person job. There's a big difference between covering a wall with "paneling" and covering a ceiling.
Then for a good looking job you'll need to consider the layout to avoid (or help hide) an out of square surface that will show with the last panel. These panels have "lines" in the long dimension and will highlight any problems to the eye. Imagine having to install a the last "course" that works out to be 3/4" at one end and 2" at the other, and it crosses over a printed stripe.
Never assume that the work done before you is flat, straight or square when it comes to finish work. 👍
 
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CraigStu

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My concern w/ using an adhesive is what if it doesn't work out. Man you would be in a bad fix trying to remove it. I think I'd try to figure out how to locate the joists and experiment w/ one panel w/ finish nails into the joists. Are you planning to have a drywall lift or make some supports yourself? Either way you could put a brad into the joist just beyond each end of the panel and run a light string between the brads after you support the panel in place. This would give you a good guide where the joists are.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Not my choice for a ceiling but for something like that, I might consider 1/4" crown staples in the panel grooves. Nobody looks up but if you worry about staples being seen, black them out with a Sharpie or black touch up paint.
 
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finn

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I used thin osb for a 30x32 section of my garage ceiling. It didn’t end well. The thin stuff doesn’t support its own weight and ends up with waves. Plus, it’s so flimsy that it’s difficult to handle when in the horizontal / flat position. I think the linked product would have the same issue unless glued with some sort of contact cement. That’s going to complicate installation, as it limits the wiggle room to get it straight during installation.

It does cover the insulation bats , but that’s it.

The only thing I can do now, is cover it with steel, or run 1”x2”, or larger battens to straighten out the waves, (or both). I’ll probably never get to either, but it bothers me every time I see it.

It was easier to put steel on the other part of the ceiling, even though at almost 15’, it was higher than the 12’ high section with the thin osb. Plus, the white steel really brightens up the garage.
 
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tarmy

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Sagging Is a thing…as mentioned, find a more suitable material for ceiling application.
 
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phred

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I used 1/8” Masonite with white melamine skin for the entire 2500 sq fr of my shop. No sag at all. All the seams are capped with 2” wide lattice strips. Attached to the joists with 3/4” staples.
 

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bradleydavidgood

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Thanks for all the replies. I think I like this idea I got from another forum:

I would use FRP adhesive applied with a 1/8" v notched trowel and locate the ceiling joists and use a 2" narrow crown stapler to fasten the panels. Nails will tend to pull through or blow through such a thin sheet.

I hear all the warnings about it sagging and being hard to do. I am thinking that with the FRP adhesive and the staples into joists it may work out.
 
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jamesDW

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Dec 16, 2024
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2
bradleydavidgood said:
Hi,

I want to install 1/8" thick MDF panel on my drywall ceiling in my garage. Like these:


I have a pancake compressor with a craftsman brad nailer that I've used in the past to nail cedar tongue and groove to the ceiling, using construction adhesive also. But that was much thicker and gave the brads something more to grab.

Do you think that method would work with this 1/8" panel that are 4' x 8'? I'm going to be installing it mostly myself so will need to manage the thing overhead with 2 x 4's wedged in holding it up to install it. So I want the easiest method that will also hold well.

Or do I use construction adhesive with finishing nails? And if so, from a gun like this?

Or with a hammer and finishing nails or panel nails?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
Just a suggestion to use some kind of finishing screw. You could use 1" & 5/8" or 1"& 1/2" Let's not forget that as per building code that the ceiling in an attached garage has 5/8ths gypsum board along with any shared walls with the interior of the dwelling.just FYI. You want your fastener to embed at least 5/8" into your substrate or ceiling joists. I wouldn't bother with the glue. Unless this is your forever home.
 
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jamesDW

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CraigStu said:
Is there a fire code problem covering drywall w/ this?
Click to expand...
No no problem. It's a 2 minute fire rating. If a fire started say in the garage 5/8ths one layer worth gives you 2 minutes to get out before your house catches fire.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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Messages
94
jack stand said:
You might want to take a 8' straight edge and wonder all around on the ceiling first inspecting for flatness.
Wallboard itself will not hold a nail so you'll need a construction adhesive and a nail long enough to hit the framing with a decent head, like a 1" siding nail.
Then you'll have to mark out the framing.
I'd almost think about strapping & shimming the ceiling first to insure the new panels seam tightly to each other would be the way to go.
This is also going to be a 2 person job. There's a big difference between covering a wall with "paneling" and covering a ceiling.
Then for a good looking job you'll need to consider the layout to avoid (or help hide) an out of square surface that will show with the last panel. These panels have "lines" in the long dimension and will highlight any problems to the eye. Imagine having to install a the last "course" that works out to be 3/4" at one end and 2" at the other, and it crosses over a printed stripe.
Never assume that the work done before you is flat, straight or square when it comes to finish work. 👍
Click to expand...
Thanks, good ideas. I am not concerned about it looking perfect, but I do want it to look as good as possible. These are good things to think about.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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Messages
94
CraigStu said:
My concern w/ using an adhesive is what if it doesn't work out. Man you would be in a bad fix trying to remove it. I think I'd try to figure out how to locate the joists and experiment w/ one panel w/ finish nails into the joists. Are you planning to have a drywall lift or make some supports yourself? Either way you could put a brad into the joist just beyond each end of the panel and run a light string between the brads after you support the panel in place. This would give you a good guide where the joists are.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've heard that the adhesive I bought is extremely sticky and will hold it well.

And I think the staples into the joists will do the rest. I may even staple in between the joists, into the drywall, because it will help a little and will help until the glue sets up more.

1-1/2-in Leg x 1/4-in 18-Gauge Finish Staples (1000-Per Box)
 
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bradleydavidgood

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RegeSullivan said:
It states in the product information provided in the link under features not to use it on ceilings.
Click to expand...
Yes, and I would state that too if I made the product, because, most people would not go to extra lengths required to hold it up correctly, and there would be complaints. I realize that it is not made for ceilings, and I plan to compensate for that.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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Messages
94
finn said:
I used thin osb for a 30x32 section of my garage ceiling. It didn’t end well. The thin stuff doesn’t support its own weight and ends up with waves. Plus, it’s so flimsy that it’s difficult to handle when in the horizontal / flat position. I think the linked product would have the same issue unless glued with some sort of contact cement. That’s going to complicate installation, as it limits the wiggle room to get it straight during installation.

It does cover the insulation bats , but that’s it.

The only thing I can do now, is cover it with steel, or run 1”x2”, or larger battens to straighten out the waves, (or both). I’ll probably never get to either, but it bothers me every time I see it.

It was easier to put steel on the other part of the ceiling, even though at almost 15’, it was higher than the 12’ high section with the thin osb. Plus, the white steel really brightens up the garage.
Click to expand...
How did you attach the osb. What fasteners and any adhesive?
 
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bradleydavidgood

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phred said:
I used 1/8” Masonite with white melamine skin for the entire 2500 sq fr of my shop. No sag at all. All the seams are capped with 2” wide lattice strips. Attached to the joists with 3/4” staples.
Click to expand...
Looks good! I am not familiar with masonite, but I looked it up, and it sounds similar, some kind of pressboard. So If I'm using adhesive and 1 1/2" staples that would even hold better than what you did.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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RegeSullivan said:
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish but if you are just wanting to cover what is there why not sofit. You can get solid or ventilated in white. And never needs painting.
Click to expand...
What I'm trying to accomplish is this:
RegeSullivan said:
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish but if you are just wanting to cover what is there why not sofit. You can get solid or ventilated in white. And never needs painting.
Click to expand...
I want to install 1/8" thick MDF panel on my drywall ceiling in my garage. Like these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-Weathered-Barnboard-Wall-Panel/1000701468

I am not trying to accomplish sofit, or anything white. If I was, I'd just paint it white.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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WisJim said:
Why cover the drywall with something so questionable, instead of taping, mudding and painting?
Click to expand...
Because I like the look of it. I love the wood look. I've done an entire bathroom, floor, walls, and ceiling in wood. But I think that's too much for a garage, even tho it's going to be one of my favorite places to be, and I'll spend a lot of time there.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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jamesDW said:
Just a suggestion to use some kind of finishing screw. You could use 1" & 5/8" or 1"& 1/2" Let's not forget that as per building code that the ceiling in an attached garage has 5/8ths gypsum board along with any shared walls with the interior of the dwelling.just FYI. You want your fastener to embed at least 5/8" into your substrate or ceiling joists. I wouldn't bother with the glue. Unless this is your forever home.
Click to expand...
I plan on using 1 1/2" 18 guage 1/4" staples in the joists. I am going to do the full coverage of the adhesive because I don't want any sag or waves, and I don't mind the extra work. I am getting really healthy and this will be my exercise/work thru the cold months. I enjoy working on spaces very much and doing things thoroughly. Especially things that are challenging and that most people would not do.

I routinely do things at my job and in my personal life that other people think are not possible, or that they would never take the time to do. It is rewarding to me and I love to see my work for years after.

I've always approached my house work as if I was going to be there for the rest of my life, or as if I wanted the next person to appreciate my work, and I will continue to do that. My other home which is a rental is amazing and rented for high rent in 2 days. I love that.
 
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cgrutt

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I might test adhesion on a couple pieces of scrap first. The FRP is specifically made for FRP (plastic) panels not sure if there would be any issues with MDF and drywall. Note the fast grab version of that product requires a porous material, assuming for curing as product cures via water evaporation. It can be used on UNPAINTED drywall but they recommend their polymer product over painted drywall. Not sure what you have. They also recommend applying adhesive to the panel, not the wall (I don't know why but assuming so it doesn't begin to set up before adhering panel as the untreated drywall will soak up any moisture in product) and to roll the (FRP) panel with linoleum style roller to ensure full adhesion. As others have said the MDF paneling is not rated for ceiling. I get that you're using adhesive but can't help but wonder if there are other concerns such as the finish delaminating from the MDF core with gravity working against it. Good luck with your project.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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cgrutt said:
I might test adhesion on a couple pieces of scrap first. The FRP is specifically made for FRP (plastic) panels not sure if there would be any issues with MDF and drywall. Note the fast grab version of that product requires a porous material, assuming for curing as product cures via water evaporation. It can be used on UNPAINTED drywall but they recommend their polymer product over painted drywall. Not sure what you have. They also recommend applying adhesive to the panel, not the wall (I don't know why but assuming so it doesn't begin to set up before adhering panel as the untreated drywall will soak up any moisture in product) and to roll the (FRP) panel with linoleum style roller to ensure full adhesion. As others have said the MDF paneling is not rated for ceiling. I get that you're using adhesive but can't help but wonder if there are other concerns such as the finish delaminating from the MDF core with gravity working against it. Good luck with your project.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Thats a great idea to test it on scrap. I will do that.

And the roller idea is great too, I'm getting that. Sure will beat using my hands.
 
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billconner

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It's almost a $1.10 /SF before sales tax. Around here you can get real rough sawn pine for 75¢ /SF after sales tax. Plus no glue expense or fuss. I'm sure it would look better than printed wood. Just an option that costs less and looks better and should be less work to install. ymmv.
 
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bradleydavidgood

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Thanks, that's a good idea, but I don't like pine that much and that would be a lot of boards to cut and fasten.
 
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