How to install MDF panel on drywall ceiling

[bradleydavidgood]

I see in post #33 you are after the "look" of osb. I was thinking your choice material was because you had it on hand so this changes my suggestions. With material as thin 2.5, 3mm or 1/8 inch the adhesive it self often causes problems so chose wisely, maybe fast drying and not watet based. It might be worth it to test at least a 2' x 2' panel and let it cure before continuing with your plan. I don't think you will find much existing experience to benefit from but maybe do a little more interwebs searching.

I work with a lot of 2.5, 3mm and 1/8 material and don't recall ever seeing osb thinner than 1/4" or 6mm. I'm very interested to know what does or doesn't work for you and please tell me your source for 1/8 osb.

Thank you! Here is what I plan to use. I am going to test it ahead of time and I will report back.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-Weathered-Barnboard-Wall-Panel/1000701468

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Titebond-G...dhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-448-Fl-Oz/3227253

 

[RegeSullivan]

Thank you! Here is what I plan to use. I am going to test it ahead of time and I will report back.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-Weathered-Barnboard-Wall-Panel/1000701468

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Titebond-G...dhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-448-Fl-Oz/3227253

I deleted my post because I thought you were using osb. What I said still applies for the most part but I know those finished mdf panels have their own requirements and I have no experience with them.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I deleted my post because I thought you were using osb. What I said still applies for the most part but I know those finished mdf panels have their own requirements and I have no experience with them.

weird

 

[manwithtools]

I'd be surprised if those staple's don't blow completely through that MDF. Stapler with enough force to set a 1-1/2" long staple into a truss or ceiling joist is almost certain to blow through 1/8" MDF

 

[PoorUB]

I want to install 1/8" thick MDF panel on my drywall ceiling in my garage. Like these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-Weathered-Barnboard-Wall-Panel/1000701468

Personally, I don't have a lot of faith in this turning out. I foresee a saggy, waving ceiling with obvious **** joints all over and then the staples or nails will show as a dent in the wall board.

 

[billconner]

Thanks, that's a good idea, but I don't like pine that much and that would be a lot of boards to cut and fasten.

Fewer fasteners and no glue, and a 12' 1x12 seems much easier than a 4x8 sheet. But appreciate you don't like the look.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I'd be surprised if those staple's don't blow completely through that MDF. Stapler with enough force to set a 1-1/2" long staple into a truss or ceiling joist is almost certain to blow through 1/8" MDF

OK well I'm going to do some testing and find out, thanks!

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Personally, I don't have a lot of faith in this turning out. I foresee a saggy, waving ceiling with obvious **** joints all over and then the staples or nails will show as a dent in the wall board.

OK well I'm going to do some testing and find out ahead of time so no worries there.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I'd be surprised if those staple's don't blow completely through that MDF. Stapler with enough force to set a 1-1/2" long staple into a truss or ceiling joist is almost certain to blow through 1/8" MDF

The staple gun I bought has a depth adjustment so this should be fine. And I will test it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metabo-HPT-was-Hitachi-Power-Tools-18-Gauge-1-4-in-Narrow-Crown-Finish-Pneumatic-Stapler/1000820278

 

[duneslider]

Make sure you roll the whole panel with a roller after you put it up. Just like when doing FRP, you have to roll it to get it all squished on there correctly. Prep is key on this, if the ceiling is flat the panel should end up pretty flat. I think that pattern will help hide some imperfection. I have put FRP on a ceiling before (cheap *** room waterproofing) and it looked fine but the drywall was finished flat first. I honestly don't know if they recommend FRP on the ceiling or not but it worked just fine. We glued it, stuck it, rolled it, and it stayed there, no nails or staples or anything. It was a pretty small room, so just a couple sheets and I just used an frp trim at the corners and between the sheets so I didn't have to be "perfect" lining my sheets up.

 

[jack stand]

OK well I'm going to do some testing and find out, thanks!

Play with the pressure, even if it takes a little hammer action to set it perfectly. I think staples are the right thing to have an equivalent surface "support" as a small headed siding type nail but it will hide much better.
The term mdf, to my limited experience is usually 1/2 - 5/8" + thick. Being only 1/8" I'd be surprised if it wasn't "masonite" based with a photographic surface. Nothing wrong with Masonite either.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Make sure you roll the whole panel with a roller after you put it up. Just like when doing FRP, you have to roll it to get it all squished on there correctly. Prep is key on this, if the ceiling is flat the panel should end up pretty flat. I think that pattern will help hide some imperfection. I have put FRP on a ceiling before (cheap *** room waterproofing) and it looked fine but the drywall was finished flat first. I honestly don't know if they recommend FRP on the ceiling or not but it worked just fine. We glued it, stuck it, rolled it, and it stayed there, no nails or staples or anything. It was a pretty small room, so just a couple sheets and I just used an frp trim at the corners and between the sheets so I didn't have to be "perfect" lining my sheets up.

Cool thank you! Great info. Yes, I put a roller in my cart yesterday because someone else said that too.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Play with the pressure, even if it takes a little hammer action to set it perfectly. I think staples are the right thing to have an equivalent surface "support" as a small headed siding type nail but it will hide much better.
The term mdf, to my limited experience is usually 1/2 - 5/8" + thick. Being only 1/8" I'd be surprised if it wasn't "masonite" based with a photographic surface. Nothing wrong with Masonite either.

Thanks! The staple gun I bought has a depth adjustment so this should be fine. And I will test it.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metabo-HPT...row-Crown-Finish-Pneumatic-Stapler/1000820278

It says for the material:

• Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) Substrate

https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-Weathered-Barnboard-Wall-Panel/1000065005

 

[Firstram]

You are going to hate life trying to make that look good!

 

[bradleydavidgood]

You are going to hate life trying to make that look good!

Could you explain why you think that?

 

[bradleydavidgood]

You are going to hate life trying to make that look good!

Many people in the reviews state how real it looks, how easy to install and cut, and how pleased they are with the results. Some even put it in their living room next to the fireplace. This is my garage.

 

[Firstram]

Could you explain why you think that?

Trying to get that flimsy sheet lined up on the ceiling (while holding a staple gun) without getting glue on everything will ****! Just keeping your hands clean long enough to staple it up will be a trick! It will take 3 people or a drywall lift with a tabletop that’s been windowed for nailing access. Do yourself a favor, buy 1 sheet and install it on your layout before you commit to doing the whole ceiling.

Another alternative that’s simple.
Before snap lock flooring, most wood flooring, walls and ceilings on movie sets was just stained strips of Lauan (or any other thin plywood). Use a roller and stain the full sheets a mix of 3 close shades. Rip the stained sheet into whatever width you want, 3, 4 or 5 inch. Stack 8 or 10 up with the ends misaligned by 3 or 4 inches per layer and cut through the stack off-center, random is your objective.

Mix up the lengths and colors to randomize it, start in the middle of the room and work towards the walls. A coat of tinted floor wax will tie it all together! It’s cheap, easy for 1 person to install and looks fantastic for what it is!

 

[Glemon]

...I routinely do things at my job and in my personal life that other people think are not possible, or that they would never take the time to do. It is rewarding to me and I love to see my work for years after...

I have to say I started reading this thread mostly just kind of fascinated that someone would put that much work and thought into a shop ceiling.

But as someone who has shopped for contractors who have told me they can't or won't do the job the way I want it, and I have said to myself, "I can" then done it--I like your style.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Trying to get that flimsy sheet lined up on the ceiling (while holding a staple gun) without getting glue on everything will ****! Just keeping your hands clean long enough to staple it up will be a trick! It will take 3 people or a drywall lift with a tabletop that’s been windowed for nailing access. Do yourself a favor, buy 1 sheet and install it on your layout before you commit to doing the whole ceiling.

Another alternative that’s simple.
Before snap lock flooring, most wood flooring, walls and ceilings on movie sets was just stained strips of Lauan (or any other thin plywood). Use a roller and stain the full sheets a mix of 3 close shades. Rip the stained sheet into whatever width you want, 3, 4 or 5 inch. Stack 8 or 10 up with the ends misaligned by 3 or 4 inches per layer and cut through the stack off-center, random is your objective.

Mix up the lengths and colors to randomize it, start in the middle of the room and work towards the walls. A coat of tinted floor wax will tie it all together! It’s cheap, easy for 1 person to install and looks fantastic for what it is!

Thanks for the explanation. Tomorrow I am getting a drywall lift in great condition for $65. And I have a second person. And I'm going to try everything ahead of time on a test area.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I have to say I started reading this thread mostly just kind of fascinated that someone would put that much work and thought into a shop ceiling.

But as someone who has shopped for contractors who have told me they can't or won't do the job the way I want it, and I have said to myself, "I can" then done it--I like your style.

Thank you Glemon! At last, someone on this forum who appreciates that.

I too, have had the experience so many times with contractors and mechanics who don't want to do it the way I want to do it and are stuck with their way, or old ways of doing things. So I've done it myself, and I think in every circumstance, it's turned out great, I've loved it, other people have loved it.

I have the time and energy to do this how I want to do it and don't mind the work or the patience involved, in fact, I love the challenge of it and learning new skills.

I'm also learning auto repair at the same time, after a lifetime of some of it, I'm now going to do a complete suspension rebuild, including struts, links, and bushings, everything that moves. And I'm replacing all kinds of other parts on the engine after 246k miles so I can run the Honda another 100k or more. And I'm going to fix minor rust and roll on Rustoleum tractor paint.

After that I'm going to do the same stuff to my wife's same model Honda, and the boy is buying same gen also.

Saying all that because I'm going to spend a bunch of time in this shop.

 

[PoorUB]

Many people in the reviews state how real it looks, how easy to install and cut, and how pleased they are with the results. Some even put it in their living room next to the fireplace. This is my garage.

There is a huge difference between putting sheets of it on your walls, versus covering a ceiling with it.

Walls you just have vertical seems, the sheets go floor to ceiling. On the ceiling you have multiple seams, ends and sides. Get one sheet crooked, and the whole plan goes to hell.

I am doing a kitchen remodel and tore up the floor and relaid plywood sheets. I tried my best to get them square and parallel and I failed and this was on the floor. I can not imagine trying it on the ceiling!

 

[duneslider]

What's that one Taylor Swift song..."Haters gonna hate"?

This isn't the craziest thing I have seen someone do in their garage...

Someday I MIGHT paint my garage.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

There is a huge difference between putting sheets of it on your walls, versus covering a ceiling with it.

Walls you just have vertical seems, the sheets go floor to ceiling. On the ceiling you have multiple seams, ends and sides. Get one sheet crooked, and the whole plan goes to hell.

I am doing a kitchen remodel and tore up the floor and relaid plywood sheets. I tried my best to get them square and parallel and I failed and this was on the floor. I can not imagine trying it on the ceiling!

Yes well the good thing is it doesn't have to be perfect, it's the garage. Plus I'm going to trim it with ripped down cedar fence posts from lowes. And I'm going to start with the first panel in the middle of the room so that if it is off on the sides, the trim will hide it. Does that solve this problem?

 

[bradleydavidgood]

What's that one Taylor Swift song..."Haters gonna hate"?

This isn't the craziest thing I have seen someone do in their garage...

Someday I MIGHT paint my garage.

Thank you Duneslider!

 

[jack stand]

Walls you just have vertical seems, the sheets go floor to ceiling. On the ceiling you have multiple seams, ends and sides. Get one sheet crooked, and the whole plan goes to hell.

This is an excellent point!
I've seen this type of 4x8 sheet goods that are not cut square.
Heads up (to the OP) preferably in the store before you check out measuring diagonally and with an accurate drywall square.
A simple way to check "in store" would be to stack 2 sheets in various positions ie; flipped face to face and spinning end for end. Square materials will agree with each other no matter how they're stacked.
For the $34/sheet (iirc) they better be square. Trimming an 1/8th to nothing is easier said than done not to mention keeping the consistency of the short 4' seams throughout the whole ceiling.
Again just another heads up and not giving you hell about this choice of material.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

This is an excellent point!
I've seen this type of 4x8 sheet goods that are not cut square.
Heads up (to the OP) preferably in the store before you check out measuring diagonally and with an accurate drywall square.
A simple way to check "in store" would be to stack 2 sheets in various positions ie; flipped face to face and spinning end for end. Square materials will agree with each other no matter how they're stacked.
For the $34/sheet (iirc) they better be square. Trimming an 1/8th to nothing is easier said than done not to mention keeping the consistency of the short 4' seams throughout the whole ceiling.
Again just another heads up and not giving you hell about this choice of material.

Thanks! good idea

 

[Viper98912]

I'm confused; is this a piece of MDF with a picture printed on top of it? (like a laminate?) If so, and if you like the wood look, are you sure you want this? It might look too cheap/fake?

Personally, I would go with an actual wood product (even something tongue and groove so it interlocks), and staple it to the ceiling joists. Think of flooring but on the ceiling. The rigidity of this will be so much better, and then you can focus the stapling to something that actually grabs onto something solid and you don't need to worry about sagging between the studs. Because stapling into drywall vertically won't really "grab" well.

Just my two cents

 

[Joemctag]

I plan on using 1 1/2" 18 guage 1/4" staples in the joists. I am going to do the full coverage of the adhesive because I don't want any sag or waves, and I don't mind the extra work. I am getting really healthy and this will be my exercise/work thru the cold months. I enjoy working on spaces very much and doing things thoroughly. Especially things that are challenging and that most people would not do.

I routinely do things at my job and in my personal life that other people think are not possible, or that they would never take the time to do. It is rewarding to me and I love to see my work for years after.

I've always approached my house work as if I was going to be there for the rest of my life, or as if I wanted the next person to appreciate my work, and I will continue to do that. My other home which is a rental is amazing and rented for high rent in 2 days. I love that.

I now understand the “why” and believe that you can and will do it. You’re not “most people”. Hope it turns out well and pleases you.