How to make drywall "waterproof'?

[gismeu]

Hello,

I live in south Florida and during an update to my garage I painted the area where we have a rather large sink white.
Now since we wash garden tools as well as our little dog in that sink, the wall around it won't stay nice and clean for long.
Therefore I am looking for ideas to prepare the drywall in such a way that any kind of dirt or soapy water splashes can be wiped off?

I considered peel and stick vinyl planks, but according to what I could find on the web, they tend to sink or get loose over time. Not too surprising since they are made for floors not walls.

So how could I prepare that drywall?
Oil-based paint maybe?

Many thanks for any ideas, Richard

 

[Farmall450]

I'd keep an eye out on FB or Clist for plastic sheets or even aluminium/stainless and screw & glue that up behind the sink.

 

[mike93lx]

A couple coats of latex paint will be fine for some splashes. I would use a decent quality semi gloss.

Or install a sheet of frp over the drywall. That will be waterproof and easy to clean

 

[DFB]

FRP BOARD

Its what we put behind our 3 bay sink in the kitchen of the farm store

Or could paint with a GOOD vapor barrier type paint...probably be just as expensive to buy a gallon

 

[LS6 Tommy]

FRP BOARD

Its what we put behind our 3 bay sink in the kitchen of the farm store

Or could paint with a GOOD vapor barrier type paint...probably be just as expensive to buy a gallon

X2. It's used extensively washdown areas, DIY car washes and public restrooms on top of the drywall.

Tommy

 

[dw1]

You could tile a backsplash area behind the sink? maybe a color of tile that would also hide the dirt!

 

[PugetDude]

F
R
p

 

[mike93lx]

You could tile a backsplash area behind the sink? maybe a color of tile that would also hide the dirt!

Tile isn't waterproof. You should still waterproof the backer if you want it to last.

A product like red guard would do this, but now you are talking about a fairly expensive and time consuming solution for a shop sink

 

[engineer2]

Redgard, but then you'd have to cover it with something (it's for tile walls). RedGard is eyeball peeling RED.

 

[The Cobbler]

go to local habitat restore, buy some ceramic tiles & install them

 

[samss]

+1 frp

 

[MrSurly]

How to make drywall "waterproof'?

For a large area, FRP panel, but for a smaller area consider this clear textured plastic.


Little bit of clear silicone and you’re done.
I did this in my house behind a pedestal sink as I wanted the no-backsplash look. It is nearly invisible. Note that it is somewhat difficult to cut as it’s brittle.


Another quickie: available in black/white/clear

 

[ard]

Ive got a corner in the barn breezeway where i put FRP up on two walls, 48" high. A sheet at home depot is like $50, trim to the edges and corner a few more $, adhesive.

Clean, neat- and looks like "here is where you wash stuff"

 

[MarlynOC]

How about coating it with fiberglas resin

 

[Danno1]

.



https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us...VAm6GCh12RgolEAAYASAAEgIpzvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



.

 

[nh_yota]

Paint provides some water protection until it's damaged.

FRP is a better choice because it's solid and will resist damage as well.

 

[dogdog]

I used 4'x4' sheets of 20 ga stainless steel .... but can't find them now at lowes or HD... used to find them at the appliance area.
but really I would just know out the drywall and replace it with those wonderboards and tile it up 4' or something.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-...-3-ft-x-7-16-in-Backer-Board-GCB60L/203689282

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Ive got a corner in the barn breezeway where i put FRP up on two walls, 48" high. A sheet at home depot is like $50, trim to the edges and corner a few more $, adhesive.

Clean, neat- and looks like "here is where you wash stuff"

I think I paid closer to $15 a 4x8 sheet a few months ago. I do recall there were a few choices but don't remember anything that expensive.

 

[DFB]

Normally FRP is $40-$50 a sheet most places. I know HD stocks the pebble grain finish as do most lumber yards. Smooth is more expensive.

Ya and HD along with some good ol' lumber yards also have that crappy bathroom and tub surround panels some is smooth with a swirl pattern some looks like tile. IIRC that is around $15 a sheet. Probably work ok for OP's situation MAYBE. Biggest problem I ever seen with it was water would get under the caulked edge like on a tub surround then of course it rot away

 

[BombShelter]

If you want to do something fun, head over to your local plastics distributor and grab some sheet plastic, 1/4" should work. UHMW (white), PVC (gray or white), PE (white) will all work fine and if they get dirty or scratched, just replace with new. All of these can be cut with regular wood-working tools. PVC can be solvent welded in the corner, the other two will need a plastic welder, but you can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight.

 

[DFB]

I think you can get precut cut lexan pieces at the HD too, I suppose something like that screwed to the wall would also work as a protective backsplash

 

[Norcal]

Because of a window in the tub area, used FRP board as the tub surround, done rather well over the years but it's in the works for replacement when the bathroom is gutted so a cast iron tub & tile can go in, & relocate the basin & toilet, so I am in the FRP crowd here, if the plastic molding is used, a hand miter box is the only thing that works to cut it without shattering it.

 

[Cougar67]

FRP is probably the best choice but Home Depot sells this white plastic sheeting in 4 x 8 sheets, 1/16" thick. You apply it with FRP glue and it's only $23 a sheet. It needs a substrate such as green drywall. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in...VTJyzCh1EIADfEAQYASABEgLDz_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[DFB]

FRP is probably the best choice but Home Depot sells this white plastic sheeting in 4 x 8 sheets, 1/16" thick. You apply it with FRP glue and it's only $23 a sheet. It needs a substrate such as green drywall. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in...VTJyzCh1EIADfEAQYASABEgLDz_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Stuff is called polywall hmmm? Cheap enough though

Maybe similar to the Polymax that Farmtek sells in their catalogs. That is a HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) and comes in 4 x8' section of various thicknesses up to a 1/2" and also sheeting in 50' rolls 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4"

Polymax is supposed to be chemical resistant, abrasion resistant, high impact and easy to clean. Mostly used for barns and horse stalls Supposed to be chew proof too

 

[DFB]

Here's both the kitchen and the processing/packing room I built. Lined all the walls with FRP

The sink was easy... just glued up over new sheetrock.

The other room 20'X25' was just a concrete block garage to start. I first covered up all the rough uneven block walls with shimmed 1/2" plywood. All the window and door trim is 3/4" AZEK lumber too. Been a full 7yrs now...4yrs on the sink wall.

 

[Benw455]

I used Densarmor drywall. It uses a fiberglass cloth instead of the paper of traditional drywall.

 

[pcmeiners]

"A couple coats of latex paint will be fine for some splashes."

For a couple of splashes. Latex does not penatrate the wall board paper, basically sits on top of the paper. Oil base does penatrate and will not de-laminate for ocassional water splashes and short lasting floods.

 

[firebirdparts]

You used to be able to buy finished metal panels just for this, or behind the stove to keep grease from soaking in. They're a little better looking than the plastic alternatives. Of course you could paint your own too.

 

[Zeke]

"A couple coats of latex paint will be fine for some splashes."

For a couple of splashes. Latex does not penatrate the wall board paper, basically sits on top of the paper. Oil base does penatrate and will not de-laminate for ocassional water splashes and short lasting floods.

I think this is a bit of misrepresentation. Nothing wrong with what you said but it doesn't always work that way. First there is Latex, acrylic and vinyl, used in various combinations for so called water based paint (water thinning and clean up). Pretty much the first coat of any paint is going to wet out the drywall paper, oil based just wets it out with, well, oils.

The top coat is what holds out moisture and provides a washable finish. Therefore, flat paints of any sort are not a good choice. You can paint almost anything over anything as long as the surface has been sealed and shows no to little side sheen. A little scuffing up is wise.

Where you can go wrong is painting one of the water based paints over a shiny oil enamel. Won't stick. There are some formidable paints in both oil and water borne formulas when used at a top coat will hold up to moisture and scrubbing.

I'm not trying to compare paints with something like FRP (fiberglass reinforced panel) or any other sheet goods. But paint is easy to apply w/o removing any fixtures or plumbing. It will do the job at home. In a public restroom, no. Not even to code.

 

[nadogail]

If FRP is strong enough for protecting the walls of Fast Food Joints and Gas Station restrooms, it will be excellent for your purpose.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Pretty much the first coat of any paint is going to wet out the drywall paper, oil based just wets it out with, well, oils."

As to moisture or water. Submerge a wall painted with and oil primer and a wall painted with latex primer (top coat could be either) for 24 hours. The latex painted wall will peel and taping will de-laminate. The oil prime wall will survive with no damage.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Why not get a sheet of laminate at a cabinet shop and glue it to the wall behind the sink? When I remodeled our kitchen, I ordered a sheet of laminate that matched the countertops and put it on the wall between the upper and lower cabinets. Contact cement will work, as well as some Liquid Nails products that are made for that purpose. Just use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive after you run the beads out of the caulk gun.

 

[Zeke]

"Pretty much the first coat of any paint is going to wet out the drywall paper, oil based just wets it out with, well, oils."

As to moisture or water. Submerge a wall painted with and oil primer and a wall painted with latex primer (top coat could be either) for 24 hours. The latex painted wall will peel and taping will de-laminate. The oil prime wall will survive with no damage.

Well, if any drywall is submerged it is done. IDK what your point is. I've painted as a union painter and as a contractor for many years before becoming a general. Paints have changed over the years for sure, but all we used on new constriction in the 70's under enamel was PVA sealer. Builders in CA must guarantee homes for 10 years.

Today's waterborne primers were hard for me to accept, but I have and recommend them. YMMV.

 

[Spud McGee]

If FRP is strong enough for protecting the walls of Fast Food Joints and Gas Station restrooms, it will be excellent for your purpose.

It is used in commercial kitchens. In the ones I worked in, we literally cleaned the kitchen every night with a garden hose. The walls held up pretty well to the abuse. The dish pit had water being sprayed all over the place even more than the rest of the kitchen. The only places I can remember it becoming a problem was when something/someone bumped into the walls and broke through the shell of that stuff so water could get back behind it and make mold and rot.

I don't think that's a problem with the FRP. Nothing short of metal plate or concrete would have held up to that level of abuse by low paid, low IQ workers.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

The drywall near the towel rack inside my bathroom gets stained with splashed water frequently, and it doesn't look good when dried out. Fortunately I have some left over paint to coat this drywall one last time. I just need to waterproof this one side of drywall so that I wouldn't have to worry about water droplets leaving stains. What would be the cheapest way to achieve this?

Stop splashing water on it!!!
See, that wasn’t so hard- and it didn’t require any paint!

You guys didn’t notice this thread was resurrected???

 

[Zeke]

It was resurrected but with a new question. Should he have started a new thread?

 

[Norcal]

It is used in commercial kitchens. In the ones I worked in, we literally cleaned the kitchen every night with a garden hose. The walls held up pretty well to the abuse. The dish pit had water being sprayed all over the place even more than the rest of the kitchen. The only places I can remember it becoming a problem was when something/someone bumped into the walls and broke through the shell of that stuff so water could get back behind it and make mold and rot.

I don't think that's a problem with the FRP. Nothing short of metal plate or concrete would have held up to that level of abuse by low paid, low IQ workers.

I used to have FRP as a tub /shower surround for 20 plus years, it did quite well was showing it's age & the green board behind it failed, & the POS enameled steel tub was chipped, replaced with tile /cast iron tub. FRP's predecessor was a melamine finished hardboard known under the brand name "Marlite", if it was chipped, scratched, or otherwise got damaged, welts would form around the damage after getting wet for a while, horrible stuff because it did damage easy.

 

[The Cobbler]

note that the OP has not logged back on since original posting.
Think we got trolled!