How to make precision cuts in aluminum flashing?

[Joelk]

I need to cut some flashing and would like to make clean precision cuts as it will be exposed and in a location that will be very visible.

Need to cut 24" x 50' roll into 10' sections then cut each section down to 23" wide.

I do not have access to a brake.

Suggestions on how make clean and square precision cuts?

 

[Musicinabottle]

Straight edge and a ute knife. Score it one side only and then bend it until it breaks. I

 

[Dirtydan69]

Bingo. But that's really going to be a pain to do the 23" cut. Look for a slitter. You may be able to rent one. If not you can usually find a good used one in the usual places and then resell when finished.

 

[matt_i]

I'd rent or buy a used brake for your job. The straightedge and clamp are built right in. Then sell it or return it at the end. Its worthwhile to use 2 people especially when you have to "rip" 1" off the 10' side.

If you are really careful you could probably get away with a cold rolled steel flat bar of something around 1/4" x 2" as those are usually pretty straight. But now you have to buy and transport a 12 foot bar, and have access to a 10-12 foot workbench, which could be made of 2x lumber and some sheets of plywood. Could be into $100 of materials just to make the first cut. I think the daily rental for the brake is less at around $60 per day as I recall. There's a local place and I think even Home Depot might rent them, I just bought a used one for all my flashing.

The place you bought the trim coil can probably steer you to a person or they might have one on-site.

 

[OccupantRJ]

A framing square, pencil, and a pair of M14 shears. These will work better for the cross cuts anyway. A brake and knife will leave a slightly rolled edge if done in the normal score and bend manner.

 

[Joelk]

Thanks for the replies!

I bought the flashing online.

I am not in a metro area so not a lot of rental options, at least not without a bunch driving involved.

I may be able to borrow a brake, would need to ask some friends if they have and will lend/rent.

I have used a brake in the past a few times, but I certainly not an expert in their use.

Would prefer to avoid the rolled edge mentioned by ORJ.

If I borrow/rent a brake, can I reduce the rolled edge effect by repeatedly scoring till it cuts through? I have lots of utility blades.

If I have to, I have some 2" x 1/4" aluminum bar stock that I use for straight cuts on plywood that I could probably use.

With an assistant I hope I can probably get a good cut using it to guide a utility blade?????

 

[bigdav160]

I would use a straight edge, some clamps and a circular saw. Oh ya, protection from the hot metal chips.

 

[Will S.]

Take the roll to a sheet metal shop, and pay them to make the cuts. Load and go.

 

[alien]

Framing square or any nice flat straight edge at least 24 inches long. A few scores with a sharp razor knife and bend in the opposite direction. You may get some bending or distortion but the better and deeper the score the less chance.

I would do it on a nice sheet of plywood that I could clamp the straight edge to so I can get a real good score.

 

[Joelk]

I got the roll of flashing and noticed that it is a nice tight roll with square ends.

Would it work OK if I just left it in the roll and cut an inch off on my sliding compound miter saw with carbide tipped blade?

 

[OccupantRJ]

Take pictures of both hands before.

 

[Muttly]

I own the brake and slitter mentioned, I have bent up miles of coil stock.

My first question is what is the finished product and how are you fastening it?

If you don't have access to a roll slitter, to get the 10' piece I'd roll it out on foam and score it once with a good sharp utility knife and a framing square from the back side, then bend it 30ish degrees and straighten it out a few times till it comes apart.

NEVER cut with a knife several times to slit metal in the brake, you'll destroy the hinge.

If it was mine, I'd bend it instead of cutting it at 23". you'll get a nice finished edge and a little more resistance to "oil canning".

Again what's the finished product and how are you fastening it?

 

[dogdog]

can't you just make some sort of jig to cut it with your circular saw? if you want it that bad, I think you would have to spend something on Jigs. Not sure you you would cut 10' sections of 24" down to 23" in precision.

****just an idea, might not fit you. I am thinking something like

1x
24"x10.5' 3/4 or 5/8 thick board

1x
23" (length)x 2" width strip to close one end. glued and tacked to one of the end

10' length x 2" width strip clued one of the edges..


23"x10' board any thickness over 1/2

a strip of 10' straight edge as a guide on top of that 23"x10' top board for your circular saw...


then all you have to do is lay the roll , put on the top board, clamp , check, then cut.

of cause you adjust your circular saw depth so it won't cut through the bottom board.

 

[ilovevocs]

Personally I would cut it into 10' sheets and throw it in my squaring sheer.

Cut it into 10' lengths and take it to a sheet metal , Hvac shop.

Maybe we have different ideas of precision.

Don't pay someone to slit it unless they can tension level too.

 

[Joelk]

Thanks for the replies.

I am not aware of any sheet metal shops in my area so that is not an option.

I do think I have a couple friends that have brakes and can probably borrow from one of them, but have not confirmed/asked.

I'm working on a somewhat unusual project.

I have an OLD 10 x 10 Aluminum garage door with 5 sections. My guess is that PO got it from a Service Station that was being torn down.

The bottom section has 3 panels with aluminum in them and the rest of the panels have glass in them.

A couple years ago I put 2 layers of 1/4" foam insulation on the inside of the door, covering the entire interior of the door.

Major decrease in heat transfer, but it did not look great on the exterior when installed and now the outer layer of foam is deteriorating due to exposure to the sun.

I have the insulation attached to the inside of the door with 1" x 1/8" aluminum strips around the perimeter. The strips are screwed to the door approx. every foot.

Aside from the exterior appearance and foam deterioration this has worked well and makes a huge difference in keeping interior of shop(24 x 40 main area) warmer.

My plan is to remove the insulation/strips, install the flashing then install insulation over the flashing with the same strips/screws that I took off.

I was initially hoping to try to do without borrowing tools, but assuming I can borrow a brake I think I will do the bend instead of a cut at 23".

 

[OccupantRJ]

Even better, bend each side at 1/2" to strengthen both long edges.