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How to make window trim removable?

Chevy-SS

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Feb 11, 2010
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Rhode Island
I am starting to trim out a big living room Bay window. There are glass block skylights on the sides, making the trim configuration quite complex. I want to be able to do it in sections, and to have the pieces be removable, so that I can mount and remove as necessary to make adjustments as I go along. In the end, I would like to have a completely finished product, that is well fitted, and then I would remove everything one last time for stain and poly.

I am considering using these fasteners in the pics below. It looks like I would need a special drill bit for them??? Am I on the right path here, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks for any tips or tricks. I should add, I am not a master carpenter, but I can do some good finish work if I take my time, though it usually takes me too many fine cuts on my chop saw to arrive at the final fit, haha.
 

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WoodsTruck

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Jan 12, 2013
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Another idea:

I used these on the bottom of a manufacturered stainless steel island topper that had MDF as a base layer. Made steel brackets on my cabinet frame work, drilled holes, and then threaded into these.
You could pre-drill a small hole through your trim into the base material, then oversize the hole to install these threads. My concern with your extremely aggressive trim screws is that everytime you run them up snug you will likely embed the head further into the wood. By the time you are done they may be a lot deeper than you want, you pull the threads out, or you simply pull the head of the screw completely through the trim wood. But again, your results may vary.
 

PCustoms

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Jul 23, 2011
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Location
VT
I am considering using these fasteners in the pics below. It looks like I would need a special drill bit for them??? Am I on the right path here, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

No special drill needed, but I think you're barking up the wrong tree, especially if you want to have poly finish.

Post a pic of the window you're trying to trim out.
 

tmp

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Sep 12, 2023
Messages
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I would just use tape temporarily, then when everything is fit and finished tack it in with 18ga nails.

Trim head screws will still leave a significant hole to fill and it will stick out in a piece that will be stained.
 

gahrajmahal

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Dec 12, 2008
Messages
2,538
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hey Chevy S-S, those grk screws are great cabinet screws when connecting the fine mdf cabinets together. That is what they are designed for. However, if you try to use them on trim (that isn’t thick) they tend to split the short side unless you pre drill them.

I agree with the cobbler about using a powered nailer with pin nails, I’d suggest 1/2” but you should know you will get small rectangle indentations on your boards if you are face nailing them. Some folks don’t like those imperfections and they typically are a pain to fix once nailed and dented.

Another option if the trim is truly meant to be removable is to use similar colored screws in either countersunk configuration ( thick wood) or a pan head, or flat binding surface on thinner trim.

Here are two examples from my home. The white trim boards are around our pocket door because if the wheels come off the track or other adjustments need to be made the trim has to come off. The other are door thresholds that needed to be a precise thickness.

IMG_1163.jpeg

IMG_1164.jpeg

IMG_1165.jpeg
 
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