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How to mitigate echos in larger shop?

ryan112ryan

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Jan 6, 2018
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13
Planning out some of the final details and got to see a few shops the size I’m hoping to build. One thing that struck me when I was hanging out was the echos in the space. Large walls and concrete are gong to echo but is there a way I can make the larger space sound decent?

Not looking to sound proof, but would like the acoustics to be comfortable if I’m just hanging out. When I use power tools I’m wearing ear pro, but one space I toured it was so echoey (had insulation on walls and ceiling) that it was almost uncomfortable to hold a conversation. As we moved stuff around it just echoed.

Thoughts?
 
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ItsNemo

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Mar 5, 2016
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Fill it up :)

It will get a lot quieter once there's stuff in there.

Otherwise, a few strategically placed sound panels can help.
 

Brian.Rheeder

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Sep 7, 2018
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Harrison Township, MI
I’ve seen hanging curtains that are only 3-4’ tall from the ceiling. They’re nothing more than something to break the sound wave to stop the echo. Simple, and probably cheap.
 

Stuart in MN

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I’ve seen hanging curtains that are only 3-4’ tall from the ceiling. They’re nothing more than something to break the sound wave to stop the echo. Simple, and probably cheap.

This is what i would do. Look up information online about acoustic baffles, there are pictures of commercially available products as well as ways to make your own.
 

Strouty

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We hung office cubicle panels (ones with fabric on them) from the ceiling at a friends old shop, but you need to have the height to do it. The panels were like 3' by 5' and we hung them so they were dangling down about 4' total. It made a huge difference.
 
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Grimpala

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Jul 16, 2012
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Not sure what type of building you're erecting, but I've seen the guys on RR Buildiings(YouTube) use a perforated R panel on the upper walls on the interior of their post frame buildings.

We use a slotted CMU block in school gymnasiums that is then backfilled with rock wool for sound attenuation.

In band halls we use acoustic panels, which equate to a large picture frame with carpet stretched over it. You couls also mount foam egg crate material in a frame on the wall.

Anything somewhat porours and 'soft' will help to absorb and dissipate the sound wave. Also not having your ceiling and floor parallel will help. Kinda hard to not have square walls, however.
 

Denwood

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Sep 22, 2014
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Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
I would use that Menards perforated steel, however it would be a complete waste of time unless it is backed by an acoustic absorber. 1 or 2” Roxul Rockboard 60 or 80 is designed for this purpose often hidden behind fabric covered 2’x4’ frames that are wall hung with a 1” to 2” gap behind.

The most effective / easy application for a shop is to frame over the wall surface (after inspection) with a frame that is 3” deep, multiples of 2’ wide, and multiples of 4’ high. Use steel studs if you want it fire rated. Line that frame (leaving a 1” gap behind) with 2” thick, 2’ x 4’ Rockboard panels (60 or 80). Aim for 25% wall coverage if you can as your floor will likely remain highly reflective to noise. 1 or 2” gap behind increases efficiency significantly. Cover this with the perf metal. Roxul with steel studs and metal covering would be 100% fire resistant. Acoustically transparent fabric covering would be best, however I would not use this in a shop.

My experience is mostly studio and theater, however what I described is what I would use in a shop for max effectiveness and cost per square foot. If you follow the general rule of 25% area coverage, you’ll drop the IR (impulse response) about 50%. So if a simple hand clap resonates for 1.5s in the bare room, treated, it would decay in about .75s. To the ear, that is huge :). A simple Room Impulse Response iOS app will let you quantify this. I use the IR tool in AudioTools, however that is a $70 app...

Carpet (thick ****) does wonders on the floor...however not so great in a shop!

Without getting technical and posting psycho acoustic blather....boomy rooms are unpleasant mostly because our brains have to work overtime to localize noise...and there are typically multiple conflicting signals at the same time. Treat it and people will find it a much quieter and more relaxing environment.

Stick-on foam btw is a fire hazard and also a waste of time/money when compared to the above technique.
 
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