How to mount a breaker box in a pole barn?

[drg5490]

Getting ready to install electric in the pole barn. How is everyone mounting their breaker box in their pole barns?

1. Mount 200 amp box to horizontal purlins, that have the metal screwed to on the other side

2. Build a stud wall flush between 2 post and install the box flush within the studd wall

Any pics of your set-up would be great

 

[NUTTSGT]

The first response you'll probably get is mount it to code. I believe there are a few different codes between the US and Canada.

Second, I would take into account how you plan on running your wire, in conduit on the outside of the wall or NM (romex) in the wall.

How do you plan on finishing the walls ?

 

[wedge40]

Not sure how big your barn is. But think about or layout all the outlets and lights you plan on hooking to the box. This may have an effect of where the box is ultimately located.
I'll shoot some photos of mine. Mine was placed that in the end I can take the cover off and drywall.

Wedge

 

[f150skidoo]

my dads shop is a pole barnd and we put 2x6s horizontally around the shop on 16' centers.

 

[drg5490]

Right now I have no walls just the post with the exterior 2x6 mounted to the outside of the post for the tin to be mounted on ceiling is open, I have a pretty good idea as where the box will go , just wondering what the best way to mount it. I'm guessing off the purlins and on a stud wall for ease of accessibility and room for running wires

 

[drg5490]

This is the wall where it will go

 

[Ghost Rider]

Attach 3/4 inch ply wood to the purlins and mount the panel on the plywood. If you plan to insulate in the future, maybe you should use 2x4 or 2x6 spacers so you can fill the space with insulation and mount the 3/4" plywood over that.

 

[boosteddsm92]

Attach 3/4 inch ply wood to the purlins and mount the panel on the plywood.

 

[ABADWILLYS]

some scrap wood mounted to purlins, ive since framed around in 2x6, going to make an access door

 

[Norcal]

Why did you leave the main breaker at the top when the feed is at the bottom? That panel can be top fed or bottom fed......

 

[MN BIANCHI]

This is what I did:

I mounted 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood that I painted white. The plywood was mounted to the horizontal purlions after the wall was insulated. The walls were covered in white metal except where the plywood sheets were. This photo was taken just after the panels and off-peak meter socket were mounted and before most of the condutit was installed. All of the wiring is run in conduits. The sheet to the left which is out of the picture was for mounting the in-floor heat equipment etc.

 

[readhead]

Is this a breaker box or the service entrance? Most jurisdictions require the service entrance to be outside for ease of disconnect and then you can come out of there into a breaker box inside. The ground rod will need to be outside also. Since you will probably be mounting lights outside by the doors the sheeting should be bonded also.

 

[Highbeam]

Framed a wall between the posts and the mounted as a normal residential panel. All wires run as you would in a house, no conduit except the feeder to the panel.

 

[jumpingryan]

I would just frame it in as if you were adding walls. 16 inch on centre for 2 X 4, and up to 24 inch on centre for 2 X 6 if it was my structure. It won't cost much extra, and will give strong support to the panel which is very important.

I recommend a 3/4 inch plywood backer board, GS1 (good one side) minimum. If it will be a showpiece, choose a nicer grade. Paint is optional, but it is up to you to dress it up, and usually best done beforehand. Make it much larger than the panel so there is lots of room for wiring to be run neatly and stapled correctly on all sides of the panel, and to keep low voltage (phone, cable) a distance away from higher voltage wiring.

Always think of methods to add circuit runs as required months down the road. No setup is perfect and after a few months, you may want to add something here or there.

Behind the plywood, I always recommend either of the following to future-proof your structure:

1) Continuous Vapour barrier that you can tie into with tuck tape if you insulate in the future by sliding insulation behind the panel.

2) Continuous rigid foam (1 inch minimum) overlapping the plywood that can be tied into with vapour barrier and insulated wither either insulation and vapour barrier or other methods (foam or spray foam).

Good luck!

R

 

[drg5490]

High beam, loved the pic got a question..I noticed the ceiling rafters under the trusses,I see you connected the ceiling joist to boards off the post going across the width of the garage.how wide is the garage and were you able to clear span the entire width?

 

[timewarp]

High beam, loved the pic got a question..I noticed the ceiling rafters under the trusses,I see you connected the ceiling joist to boards off the post going across the width of the garage.how wide is the garage and were you able to clear span the entire width?

Looks to me like the boards off the post as you call them are the bottom span of the truss.

 

[drg5490]

I was thinking that also until I saw the 2 supports attached to the beam supporting what ever is going across

 

[Highbeam]

Looks to me like the boards off the post as you call them are the bottom span of the truss.

Timewarp, I grew up in Silverdale, graduated from CKHS.

Anyway, yes, those are the bottom chords of the truss. The ceiling joists are attached to the bottom chords with joist hangers. They are 2x6 joists and the trusses are 12' on center.

Those knee braces are there to stiffen the frame. They connect the trusses to the posts. The posts are full dimension 6x8 #1 doug fir. Shop is 30 feet wide by 60' long and 14' tall in a "high wind" area.

 

[drg5490]

Thanks for the reply