How to mount these light fixtures..I must be missing something.

[dman535]

So picture are a Millennium gooseneck mounting bracket for our exterior lights. I think I have a plav for the areas that have the ribbing. Cut some 4" PVC that I am going to cut to match the profile of the siding - so all I need is a small hole for the wiring and screws.
The think I am baffled with is how to attach on the inside. I assume that the mounting screws should remain level and that the set screws should be perpendicular to the ground. None of the boxes at Lowes/HD would work in this way and allow me to attach it to a stud. The other thing, is I would like something open so I can pull the wires through, all the boxes I found were closed so you can't access the wires once the box is screwed to the mounting plate.

What should I be using???

 

[Speedy Petey]

IMO you'd be crazy to mount those lights on the high spots of that siding. WAY too much work to seal properly.

What I'd do is get round weatherproof boxes, bring the cable into the back through a smallish hole (just big enough for the connector) and mount the box to the surface of the siding. The back side may need blocking for strength so the siding does not flex. Then mount the lights to the boxes.
Most better companies that sell those lights will also offer boxes in the same color.

You should NOT be able to access the wiring once the fixture is mounted. That's the point.

 

[dman535]

I am trying to avoid cutting the siding - So I was going to make adapters that follow the ridge of the building, and paint them black to match the fixture. I thought those would be easier to seal. If I do an outside box, the adapter and the the mount that is going to be to much on the outside.
There may not be a way around this and I have to cut or flatten the metal. I do have flat spots where the exterior box can be mounted without cutting anything.

 

[sselander]

Arlington makes some good stuff. A good flat area would be preferable.

Siding Mounting Blocks
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/siding-mounting-blocks/

 

[plow]

This exact question came up 4/5 months ago. I don't remember the outcome, but you might try a search.

 

[dman535]

I did a fair amount of searching through the forum - but didn't see anything conclusive. I did find a pic of the weather proof boxes, using the exact fixture we have.
My concern is how bad it will look if I have to cut the siding to get the light to center over a door. Maybe I am wrong about it and the cut siding will be fine.

 

[plow]

I understand. My search Fu is weak to.

 

[Speedy Petey]

I'd deal with the light being 2-4" off center of the door ANY day over cutting the high spot out of the siding.

 

[MagicMarker]

I'd deal with the light being 2-4" off center of the door ANY day over cutting the high spot out of the siding.

One light over the door not centered would drive me nuts.. what about two lights flanking the doorway? Would that put you on a flat surface?

 

[Speedy Petey]

One light over the door not centered would drive me nuts..

Cutting out that high ridge in the siding and having it leak would drive me nuts.

 

[MagicMarker]

Cutting out that high ridge in the siding and having it leak would drive me nuts.

Agreed... which is why I threw out using two lights flanking the door.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Does the manufacturer of the metal siding have a website?

Due to the fact that your siding is made with multiple sized ribs, and has no really large "flat" areas, maybe they already have something they make to mount lights and whatnot
that you could buy.

Jim

 

[dman535]

Its the only light on the back of the building, everything else sits in a flat spot on the siding. I am thinking that having it offet to the left a few inches is not going to be the end of the world. Otherwise the box will sit out an additional 3/4-1" from the siding with something behind it.

 

[yaidunno]

I will be facing the same dilemma shortly with my garage on my center door light. Having the light not center is not an option. My plan is to a drill 3/4" hole (whatever the goose neck is) through the rib and do the hard mounting to the 2x6 that I've installed behind the tin. A bead of silicone or sealing putty around the 3/4" hole is far less likely to leak as compared to a hole for an entire box. Cutting a 4" hole to mount the box is not something i'd consider doing. As for the electrical, wires will run from the goose neck to a separate junction box, also mounted to the pre-installed 2x6.

Choosing the right hole saw and careful drilling is a must. Practice on a scrap piece of tin prior to going at the real deal. I might find that it is simply impossible to achieve acceptable results, at which point spacing the box externally will be plan b.

 

[rsanter]

I see a couple of options

Easiest thing is I would make a plate that is bent that will attach to the low spots on either side and provide a flat surface on top of the rib to mount the exterior box.

The other thing would be to use two exterior boxes. The one in the back can be cut out/ground out to go over the rib and fit snug. Seal with silicone.
The second one will mount to the first one and will be the one you use to seal and enclose the wire connections.
Either way will look professional IMO.
But the last thing I would ever do is to cut the rib from that siding

Bob

 

[dman535]

I think I have a solution. This crude powerpoint diagram shows what I think I am going to do on my one ribbed install.

A 4" black weatherproof box will be used and mounted at the peak of the rib. A 1/2" hole will be drilled through the rib and a piece of conduit will run and thread into the box. The box will be screwed into the 2x6 backing board and 3/4" spacers will hold the box off the building 3/4" of an inch. I plan to thread the other end of the conduit and secure it to the 2x6 - so it should be a fairly rigid mount.

This minimizes the holes needed ( 1x 1/2 & 2x 3/16), provides a sturdy mount, centers the box above the door and should meet any code requirements with the weatherproof box.