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How to mount this?

bluedog225

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I’ve got a bunch of these sort of commercial parking lot lights. A Restore find. I’m pretty pleased with the color of the light. And they don’t draw much power which is helpful because I’m running on solar. I’d like to mount them on the side of my workshop.

I’ve mocked one up just to see how it looks. They’re designed to mount on a 2 inch rigid conduit. Or similar size. And have a knockout for 1-1/2” also.

I’ve mocked one up as you can see below.

I’d like to run that 2 inch rigid metal conduit into some kind of box. And then into the wall.

All I can think of is an LB pull box. But I’m no electrician and don’t have a lot of experience with a size stuff.

Is there a smarter move here?

Thanks



IMG_6716.jpegIMG_6716.jpeg
 
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rsanter

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Not,sure what they have for that, but….

if it was me I would make a bracket that is a plate that will bolt to the wall and a piece of pipe that the tube on your light would sit into.
then below the bracket I would place an exterior electrical box where the junction would be made
 

Fav Onefour

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Yard light mount?
1763872505992.jpeg
Looking online they are also called barn lights.
Many of those are designed to screw on to a pole. Run the wire inside the tube and use whatever you want for the wall connection.
It's tough to use rigid conduit as the mount because of the box limitations. That's a pretty good sized light. I'd be concerned about a conduit box having enough structure to hold the light assembly solid.
 
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bluedog225

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Agreed. I‘ve got some heavy U-bolts for the elbow to wall connection. I was looking for a way to finish off the bottom in a way that was electrically proper, looked good, and would keep things out of the conduit. Sorry I wasn’t clear.

though that mount looks helpful. Thanks
 
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bluedog225

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IMG_6720.jpeg


This is my best plan so far.

I realized that either of these fence post galvanized fittings would work pretty well.

I’ll through bolt the top fittings with quarter inch galvanized bolts to the three-quarter inch plywood siding. Still open on the inside. And use the course thread wood screws they come with for the bottom fitting.

I can step down the 2 inch opening on the back of the LB box to something more reasonable for the wall penetration. And I guess put butyl tape behind the LB box?

Am I better off turning the LB sideways and running the wire and conduit up into some kind of gland or weather-head up under the soffit?

Thanks
 
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rlitman

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...Am I better off turning the LB sideways and running the wire and conduit up into some kind of gland or weather-head up under the soffit?...
Ok, so you're using these outside. An LB on the wall should be fine, so long as you don't have rain running down behind it (and duct seal should take care of that). Focus on sealing where the pipe would lead water into the top of the LB. I'd use a rain tight compression hub if it fits that pipe, and then slather that in silicone.

I'll just add here that you'll want clearance to the top (best guess is at the very least 4") for cooling.
 
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bluedog225

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Ok, so you're using these outside. An LB on the wall should be fine, so long as you don't have rain running down behind it (and duct seal should take care of that). Focus on sealing where the pipe would lead water into the top of the LB. I'd use a rain tight compression hub if it fits that pipe, and then slather that in silicone.

I'll just add here that you'll want clearance to the top (best guess is at the very least 4") for cooling.

I didn’t think of it till I read your post, but I can’t think of a reason not to turn this the other way. The LB on the top. That would be more water resistant and get the junction up under the soffit higher. I’ll need to look at the light and see if it will drain if I mount it that way.

and thanks
 

Codyboy

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I have some similar street lights and instead of using a 90 sweep I used straight pipe and welded a flange to it.
No threads on the pipe as the mount inside the fixture is a clamp type and no expensive LBs. Or need for wall clamps.
1 1/2" or 2" Pipe cut to desired length, 1/8" flat steel and a drill for the mounting holes and some paint.
 

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