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How to "prevent" moisture in basement?

logan09

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Nov 29, 2012
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120
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Upper Michigan
I want to "redo" the laundry room in my basement. When I first bought my house there was NO moisture at all down there. After the first year there has been:confused: The house was vacant for probably 5+ years.

But anyways, the laundry room has the tile flooring like the kind in schools. I don't know what it's called but it's not ceramic. Now, it is all coming up and cracking in spots. I think its been in here for 15+ years.

I want to put laminate flooring down, but if moisture is coming in how would I prevent ruining it?:dunno: This is the only area moisture is coming from. Rest of the basement is dry. I might have to check for a crack. But either way is there something I can put on the concrete?
 
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sean Buick 76

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Here are a few things to think about:

1. I am glad to hear that the basement was dry at one time! This is a good sign!

2. While the house was vacant I am guessing there was little to no air circulation? That will cause an condensation problem.

What I would do is start out by removing that ceiling that you say is in bad condition.... It may be holding onto moisture. Also remove anything in the basement that can hold moisture like carpet, beds, etc.

The next step is creating good air circulation in the basement... If you can afford a little extra on the electricity bill then heat basement a little warmer than normal to dry it out using electric heaters. Use a de-humidifier if you have one or find one used if you do not.

I always keep some packaged desiccant pouches in my basement to help keep it from smelling musty, and I have no moisture issues with the house, but all basements seem to be at least a little moist.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desiccant

http://www.agmcontainer.com/products/packaged-desiccant.html
 

HoosierMark

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I know a guy who put a simple bath vent fan in his basement. He put the pick up for the air near the floor and vented it thru a dryer type vent to the outside. He had it set up on a vacation timer and just let it run so long per day. He said it sucked the damp air out and let fresh air in. In the spring he had it set to run longer then in the winter. Seemed like a simple idea to exchange the air. He said it really helped with his dampness issues.
 

75gmck25

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Alexandria, VA
In addition to the floor, do you also have moisture coming through the concrete walls? Are the walls finished?

Drylock is often used on walls, but I don't think it would hold up on a floor. There is also a red colored liquid concrete sealant (I think its RedGard), and my floor guy told me it could be put down before I installed a new floor in the basement.

If you think water is coming through the walls also:
In the recent past they often framed a basement wall, put in fiberglass insulation, and then put plastic moisture barrier and sheetrock. This works on upper floors, but does not work well in the basement because there is always moisture coming through the cement and it gets absorbed in the insulation. The moisture then seeps out the bottom of the framed wall.

The current recommendation is to put Drylock or other barrier finish on the concrete wall, put XPS foam on the walls as a continuous moisture barrier and insulator, frame a wall inside the foam, insulate the framed wall with Roxul or fiberglass if you need more of a cold barrier, and then install sheetrock. This prevents the moisture in the walls (below grade cement walls may never be totally dry) from coming into the framed wall and insulation.

If you have too much water coming in through the walls you may have to install a perimeter drain and sump pump before you start finishing the walls. That will allow the moisture to drain downward to the lowest course of block and into the sump, and limit the pressure that would force it to come through the wall or through the floor.

Bruce
 
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logan09

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Upper Michigan
Thanks for the replies.

"Bruce" What do you mean by "finished walls"? My basement is all open minus the laundry room in which they framed it and put in crappy particle board for the walls.

The laundry room and only one other small area in my basement leak. Not sure if it's the wall that leaks I will have to rip the sheeting off.

There probably wasn't any air circulation in the house when it was vacant. The water was shut off and I don't think it was heated. It also had an old octopus furnace, and this is what I believe heated the basement and kept it dry.
 

Kevin54

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Logan.....if you don't mind, could you put your location in your profile? Just the state or country would be all that is needed. As many members that we have on here, you may have a few members that are relatively close that may answer the questions better than others. Thank you.

Now, on the other hand.....when you say that you had an old octopus style furnace, I'm guessing that you have an old house, correct? Possibly built in the early 1900's? You also say that you haven't had problems until the utility room was built. To me it sounds like an air circulation problem. Other than the tiles (linoleum I assume) popping up, do you actually SEE moisture or water anywhere?

What type of walls do you have? Are they block walls, solid concrete walls, or stone walls?

What about your gutters? Has anything changed in that area of the house where the gutters have been changed, any other landscaping done around the house that might let water flow towards the house instead of away from the house. Does your downspouts all lead away from the house, or are they tiled into the ground? There are a lot of variables to consider when it comes to keeping a basement dry. 99 times out of 100, the problems with water in a basement has to do with no sealing of the foundation on the outside. It could be something simple, or it could be something complicated.

Can you post up a pic or two of the problem inside, in the basement, and then post up what it looks like at the affected area outside? It would help in making a determination as to the possible cure, which there are about a half a dozen.

Most want the lowest cost solution. That would involve sealing the walls from the inside with something like Dryloc or UGL.

Next you have the type of solution where they put a perimeter baseboard like deal around the base of the wall where it meets the floor. If it is a block foundation, they will drill holes in the bottom row of blocks into the cores, then put down a bead of caulk on both the floor and the wall, then put the plastic baseboard type of deal up, and finally it terminates at a sump pit.

The third way, is a company comes in, cuts the floor around the perimeter, they dig down, tile the perimeter pit to a sump, put gravel in, put some fabric cloth down, then concrete over where they dug out.

And lastly, and probably the most expensive, but the best way, is to dig down on the outside, seal the walls, Put a membrane over the sealed walls, tile the area, loads of gravel, and then finally backfill.

Sadly, there is no really simple solution to a wet basement. The cheapest is to run a dehumidifier 24/7/365, and have lots of air movement. But like I said, there are a load of variables as to which way to attack the problem.
 

The Cobbler

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Logan...............
And lastly, and probably the most expensive, but the best way, is to dig down on the outside, seal the walls, Put a membrane over the sealed walls, tile the area, loads of gravel, and then finally backfill.

.........

did that in my house several years ago because of a few leaks...used delta wrap and there's never a hint of musty or dampness smell in basement .
 
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logan09

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Upper Michigan
The house was built in the 1900s. It is all original, no gutters which might be a problem also as there are divots in my yard from where rain comes off the house. I will install some come spring/summer. I live in Upper Michigan.

There hasn't been any sign of "water" issues until I moved in. My guess is because I sealed in the broken basement windows(Panes) and sealed the basement door(The one leading to the outside) that was drafty.

The basement itself doesn't smell musty. Not like a standard basement. I'm thinking of leaving my basement door open and seeing if that helps. I'm hoping it is a air circulation problem as it was completely dry for the first year until I sealed everything.

Also, I believe it is solid concrete foundation, although on the outside it looks like brick and they put a layer of cement over it(Might just be the top half though that is brick)
 
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theoldwizard1

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The best way the PREVENT moisture in a basement is waterproofing and a proper vapor barrier on the OUTSIDE of the concrete.
 

captaindiode

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Jul 8, 2013
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NC
Before you do anything, move the surface water away from the house. Make sure the grade is sloped away from the house and definitely add gutters and pipe the water away. Water against the foundation can cause far more serious problems over time. My parent's house basment walls are bowing in from the weight of years of damp earth and the fix will not be cheap or easy.
 

bradweingartner

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Sep 30, 2009
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Upper Michigan has a really incredible range of soil conditions, so that's not much help.

Absolutely channel as much of the water away from the house as you can via gutters and buried drainage as far downslope as you can. As long as there is water in the ground you'll find moisture in the basement.

Do you have a sump basin? If not, you might consider installing one. That may help remove some localized water from below the slab. Would be much better with a perimeter drain tile of course, but those are a lot harder to retrofit.

But definitely don't discount the importance of gutters and draining that runoff well away from the house. I have *one* damp wall and it's directly a result of a concrete pad sloped just slightly towards the house. most people wouldn't even notice, but it's enough to make that wall wet.
 
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logan09

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Upper Michigan
I think the gutters might be a huge issue as the wall on the other side is bone dry. And the ground on that side is sloping downwards(Kind of on a little hill/mound) and the leaky side it only leaks when it's raining outside/after a rainstorm.

I could install a sump. There is a square hole cutout in my concrete on the leaky side(No clue why)
 

buddyboy

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now that you live in the house the air in the basement is warmer, when that warm air hits the cool floor and walls it condenses.

I'm thinking before you had leaky windows, and drafts which kept the basement cooler, now that it's warmer your getting dampness.

dehimidifier will take the moisture out of the air, but it has to run and that costs money. foam insulation on the walls and floor (if thick enough) will keep the coolness of the earth away from the warmer air of the basement.

#1 is keeping that gutter water away from the house just to make sure that your not getting ground water in, but I suspect it's warm wet air hitting cold walls and floors.

you're venting your dryer outside? right?
 

MScott

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Eastern Ontario
You should put your location in your profile so we don't have to read through all the posts to find it. That said, if there is not actual water in the basement the moisture is, as said above, probably condensation. I have used a product called Drycore on the floors. It consists of 2' x 2' panels of tongue and groove particle board with a plastic waffle material on the bottom. This provides a channel for moisture and air between the concrete and the floor covering for drainage and ventilation. It also gives a measure of insulation. I used it in an old basement that was converted to living space and found it excellent.
 

GDPossehl

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Sep 23, 2014
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Atlanta, GA
I know a guy who put a simple bath vent fan in his basement. He put the pick up for the air near the floor and vented it thru a dryer type vent to the outside. He had it set up on a vacation timer and just let it run so long per day. He said it sucked the damp air out and let fresh air in. In the spring he had it set to run longer then in the winter. Seemed like a simple idea to exchange the air. He said it really helped with his dampness issues.

Great suggestion, I may add this to my crawl space where the vents were covered by an addition.
 
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