how to properly insulate?

[MyMopar]

I'll post pics once it is legally mine but I bought a new house with a nice detatched garage. Thing is the guy rebuilt it from an old barn, poured a 6" concrete floor and put siding on.
He did a lot of work but skipped out on the siding. It is basically barn board with the siding directly over it, it is real nice though.
My question is this, I want to heat the garage which means putting insulation up on the interioir walls and then putting drywall up to finish it off. Sooo, would I just use unfaced insulation, insualtion with the paper facing, do I have to put plastic over/under the insulation for a vapor barrier?
I plan on using a Modine Hot Dawg 60 to heat the garage, New England weather. Thanks.

 

[ChucksCrib]

As a general rule 'o thumb. The vapor barrier(kraft paper or plastic) faces towards the heat. The easiest thing to do is if you don't already have plastic hanging up is to just buy the kraft backed insulation. Do you have studs to work with(to contain the insulation, to screw the sheetrock into and to run the electrical through)

Where in CT are you ...I am in Salem

 

[MyMopar]

There are "studs" present to staple the insulation to. I might/will have to add some studs or do something to have a nice flat surface to attach the drywall to.
I'm also going to post a pic and get some ideas about the ceiling. Right now it is a two story garage. Over 1 bay there is a loft area and the ceiling is actually quite low, like 6'6". The other bay the ceiling is the slope of the roof, which peaks at about 20'. I am going to put insulation on the ceiling but will need ideas on gettign a finished look. Drop ceiling, something other than sheet rock (I have no way of hanging sheetrock on a ceiling this high by myself), wood paneling or something similar. Anyway that will be another post.

Thanks for the info and I'm in Suffield, CT near Bradley Airport.

Oh and the garage already has 100 amp service and all electrical is up. I will have to relocate all teh outlets though to make up the difference in sheetrock thickness and if I stud out on walls.

 

[NHCharger]

Is there an average distance between the studs? THey do make insulation for studs walls that are 24" O.C.. If the studs are an odd measurement, say 18" or 21 " O.C. the best thing to do is to buy the unfaced 24" insulation, cut it to the proper width and then cover it with a poly vapor barrier. Reason being is that it's easier to cut through unfaced insulation.
As Chuck mentioned, the vapor barrier should be on the heated side of the insulation.
I have a Hot Dawg 60K BTU propane heater hanging from the ceiling of my shop. Had it install last winter. Definately a nice unit, I also liked the 10 year warrenty that came with it. Nothing like a nice heated garage on a cold winter night when your working on your Mopar.

 

[Remi]

Spend the time to tape the seams with tuck tape (red tape for poly). Make sure that the poly coming down the ceiling laps the wall poly and is taped.

 

[kartracer55]

McDonalds, BK, White castle.... whatever youd like

 

[MyMopar]

Everyone thanks for all the info. The studs are odd spaced now and I like the idea of using the unfaced and adding the poly vapor barrier. Good point on taping the seams
Hopefully I can get this done this week-end so I can start to set-up this garage and move all the stuff out of the 2 car attached garage.
BTW NHCharger, I assum you have a Charger. What year? Mine is a 69.

 

[storts]

Im In Ct. To,,,My Inlaws live right near bradley,,,and im in killingworth,,and bought a 30x 50 ft metal building,,and will be putting it next to my 3 car garage,,whic is all ready heated,,so im going to curt a hole threw the fgarage,,and go into the new shop,,Luckie for you that yours is there,,,i picked up the things i need for a building permit,,,Mines going on 2 ft sqx 4 ft deep , footings,,,and do the floor later,,,My God,,,I built my house 8 years ago,,,its not the town,,its all the state,,except the boundy lines for the building,,,im on 8 acres,no problem,,but yo think by reading this bible they give you,,i was putting up the empire state building!!!!!!!!!thats why no concrete floor ,or bathrooom yet,,,that would then be considered a dwelling,,,and looking at 2 grand for a permit,,My god,,im putting up a 30,x 50 ft dirt floor work shop,,But i own a welding co,,so watch what you put ob your finished wakkes for fire,,,and hopefully dont get the town involved,,if I didnt need seperate 200 amp service out there id just put it up ,,and take my chances,,,inm 1100 ft off the road,,But im going to have to cover my insulation with a 1/4 thick fire proof board,,,the insulation wont melt,,but the palstic from the sparts will do a good job on the plastic vapor barrier,,,Just my 2 cents to look ahead for,,,,,Jack------PS!!!!!!!!!!!! I did all pipe and wire in my existing garage,,the ins co sees you with romaex ,and a torch and welder around,,,they will break your stones ,,,big time,,Buddy of mine did a 3 car garge,,no permit,,and a neibor turned him in,,,he now has a garage thats been wired twice,,,inside the studs,,like a reg house,,,and all new pipe and wire on the out side of the 5/8 thick fire proof sheet rock,,,Boy does that ****,,,even had to bring a new service panel in the garage,,,,Jack

 

[NHCharger]

I have a 71SE and a 72.

 

[ChucksCrib]

Killingworth.....Nice town. I have a friend of mine "Bernie" who lives right on rt 81 with a couple nice barns he built in his back yard. He's a 'Vette guy too.

 

[Jay H 237]

I will have to relocate all the outlets though to make up the difference in sheetrock thickness and if I stud out on walls.

They do make plastic extensions for electrical boxes that will take up the difference if they're not sitting flush with the finished surface. They come in different thicknesses and you can get them at Home Depot and Lowes. They're also very inexpensive.

Being that your walls are open and the boxes are accessible then you might as well move them but I just wanted to point this out in case some are difficult to remove or if they're not accessible in some areas.

 

[MyMopar]

They do make plastic extensions for electrical boxes that will take up the difference if they're not sitting flush with the finished surface. They come in different thicknesses and you can get them at Home Depot and Lowes. They're also very inexpensive.

Being that your walls are open and the boxes are accessible then you might as well move them but I just wanted to point this out in case some are difficult to remove or if they're not accessible in some areas.

That is a very good idea and one I haven't thought of. Thanks