How to Reinforce Tool Chest

[idubvdub]

I picked up the 6 drawer Kobalt tool chest.
The rear bulkhead leaves a lot to be desired.
The lock system works by securing the drawers to the
this rear bulkhead. If this was not the case I wouldn't bother trying to
make it a little more ridged. However it does.
When the chest is locked and the drawers are pulled the back flexes enough
to get a pry bar in and accordingly you can hear it flex. If I can't fix the gap, I'd like to at least reduce the amount of flex that occurs. It just feels cheap.
I wanted just wanted to ask someone with a great mind and or experience than my own if it would help to bolt in some steel stock to run vertically every 2" or so where I am able on the interior.
I know this would help reduce the flex however, I am not sure if this is the best way to go about this. I'd love to get some feed back regarding if bolting steel stock would be a good idea for a cheap easy fix or if this is a bad idea.
I know I have about a fingers clearance, expect for the middle where it latches.
I know nothing about welding if I did I think that would be the way to go about this. Thanks for your time and I would love to hear some thoughts.

 

[autoclassicnut]

Maybe bring it to a welding shop... They deal with walk-ins I bet all the time and might enjoy the challenge. But they won't be cheap... Ask before they start on an estimate then of course get it in writing before they start... just my 2 cents....

 

[nissan_crawler]

I'm not sure I get the point. Give me any toolbox, and I'll be in it within 5-10 minutes, reinforce it all you want. Locks just keep the honest guy honest. If somebody wants in, they're getting in. I've broken into several Snap-On boxes (owner permission, lost the keys) within a minute or two, and that was with trying to be nice.

 

[Uncle Buck]

If you have ever been in an industrial setting the maint techs usually construct a whole chassis with heavy Castor's, bumper bars and the like and then load the box on the new rolling chassis. Such setups usually work well for rolling boxes long distances. They also remove a lot of the flex inherent in such boxes.

 

[nissan_crawler]

If you have ever been in an industrial setting the maint techs usually construct a whole chassis with heavy Castor's, bumper bars and the like and then load the box on the new rolling chassis. Such setups usually work well for rolling boxes long distances.

That's what I did. Mine's rolling on 8" performa rubber colson casters. Air hose on the floor? Power cord in the way? Screw it, run it over. Screws, rivets, nuts on the floor? Pop right out when the wheel goes over them.

 

[wilbilt]

I was given a Craftsman top box by a former co-worker. It had fallen off the back of his truck at some point and got pretty tweaked.

He straightened it out and welded a "cage" of 1x1 angle iron around the outside with some flat stock across the back in a couple of places. It's as good as new, although quite a bit uglier.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I was given a Craftsman top box by a former co-worker. It had fallen off the back of his truck at some point and got pretty tweaked.

He straightened it out and welded a "cage" of 1x1 angle iron around the outside with some flat stock across the back in a couple of places. It's as good as new, although quite a bit uglier.

I bet it is heck for stout though!

 

[idubvdub]

You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the idea's.
I'm not trying to keep everyone out. I just hate the flex when you pull on the drawer.
I was thinking of stopping by a muffler shop. Think they might be willing to take on something new and have the tools to get it done?