How to remove a broken bolt?

[Cadillac fan]

I was taking apart this old Briggs and Stratton engine today when I realised that the last bolt on the crankcase had it's head missing.

I have spent ages trying to find ways to remove it but they usually involve needing to have the bolt head.

Can someone please tell me what tool/s I would need to be able to perform such a task?

 

[zkling]

If the head is missing can you just remove all the other bolts, remove the cover and then use a pipe wrench or the like on the now protruding stud? What engine are you working on?

 

[bimmerZ5]

can you show us a picture? different situations call for different methods?

 

[IanG]

Do you have a welder?

 

[stage20]

Do you have a welder?

you can also do this method even if the bolt is broken down in the hole. just run your wire out of the gun and arch it around a few times to build a bead.

its a pain for me to get it started, but i am not a professional.
it does work.

 

[e-tek]

It's a Briggs and Scrap-iron......

 

[sasquatch12]

"Sometimes",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Drilling the center out with a left hand drill bit will loosen it and back it out.
Is this in aluminum or cast?

 

[kenburkholz]

How much of the bolt is left? In my experience, I would soak the bolt in your favorite penetrant, then leave it soak overnight. The next day, I would tap on the bolt as if you were trying to drive it in. Then try to back it out using a pipe wrench, or some sort of stud remover. Good luck. Ken.

 

[rlitman]

If you have something to grab, then start with the methods that use that to your advantage. There are methods that deal with stuck bolts with nothing protruding, but this doesn't sound like that.

Is the bolt truly stuck, or just missing the head?

I'd start with some heat on the bolt using a torch. Get it until the bolt is just barely glowing (almost invisible dull red), and touch the bolt with a candle. At that temperature, the wax will melt so thin that it is thinner than the best penetrating oil at room temperature, and should really help free it up (the heat will help too).

Once the bolt is cool, try to spin it out with vise grips if you can grab it (don't try to turn it while hot, it is weaker like this, and as it cools, it will contract and get looser too).

 

[Farmall450]

"Sometimes",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Drilling the center out with a left hand drill bit will loosen it and back it out.
Is this in aluminum or cast?

And even if it doesn't, in has room for your favorite extractor.

 

[devoncoolman]

Welding a nut to it is a good option. If you have a welder. If not then ur stuck with a pipe wrench or a pair of knipex alligators, vice grips, yadayada u get it. Use a propane torch on the case to expand the hole a little and spray some pbblaster on it and give it a try. If its broken flush u gotta drill it or try to weld a nut over top of it. Honestly using a stick welder is your best bet.

 

[Steinmetz]

It's a Briggs and Scrap-iron......

Most likely not iron. Aluminum.

 

[Scout Driver]

"Sometimes",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Drilling the center out with a left hand drill bit will loosen it and back it out.
Is this in aluminum or cast?

This has worked for me. If the bolt doesn't back out using this method, keep drilling using progressively larger bits until you get to a bit that barely touches the internal threads. Then you can use a pick to clean out the remainder of the old bolt. (there won't be much left). Finish up by running a thread-chaser through the the threads to do a final cleaning.

Scott

 

[Cadillac fan]

Here are the pics of the bolt. the photos might be quite big so sorry about that.

 

[Cadillac fan]

To answer some questions

I do believe that this is a cast iron bore as it is about as old as one of the other B&S engines I have that is made of iron.

Unfortunately I do not own a welder at this time.

The bolt is missing the head and about 5mm off the top.

sorry, I am new to this stuff so can someone explain what a left handed drill bit is?

 

[ChevyEFI]

To answer some questions

I do believe that this is a cast iron bore as it is about as old as one of the other B&S engines I have that is made of iron.

Unfortunately I do not own a welder at this time.

The bolt is missing the head and about 5mm off the top.

sorry, I am new to this stuff so can someone explain what a left handed drill bit is?

Drills spin bits clockwise and the cutting edges of standard drill bits are formed accordingly and known as right handed.

Drills with a reverse can use LH drill bits. They're "attempt #1" in removal of many broken bolts as they'll hopefully catch the bolt such that it will unthread without much effort.

More removal ideas here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230102

 

[dowmace]

To answer some questions

I do believe that this is a cast iron bore as it is about as old as one of the other B&S engines I have that is made of iron.

Unfortunately I do not own a welder at this time.

The bolt is missing the head and about 5mm off the top.

sorry, I am new to this stuff so can someone explain what a left handed drill bit is?

It is a drill bit that has a left handed twist instead of the right hand. It is spun counter clockwise.



Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[DekeT]

I have welded a new nut to broken bolts with lots of success. The heat will do wonders for loosening the rusted bolt in the head. I have actually welded a nut on a stuck bolt and after it cooled I could screw it out by hand.

Make sure if you drill out the bolt you first punch a starting point that will align the drill bit to go straight in without wandering.

 

[BD1]

Might be tough without a welder. I welder a flat washer to the recessed bolt
first, then weld a nut to the washer. The heat does help. Good luck.

 

[nicksnothereman]

I was taking apart this old Briggs and Stratton engine today when I realised that the last bolt on the crankcase had it's head missing.

I have spent ages trying to find ways to remove it but they usually involve needing to have the bolt head.

Can someone please tell me what tool/s I would need to be able to perform such a task?

You're going to have to drill it out (looking at the picture somewhat)...I think. It's possible if you heat and use penetrating oil you could get enough of a grip on the end to pull it out but it will take a long time.

They say the acetone/atf mix will penetrate the best so try that with heat prior.

 

[Givl Reggin]

I'd bet you would be fine without a bolt there, put a washer under the heads of the bolts adjacent to it and put it back together... it's a splash oil system, so you're essentially building up no pressure in it and the risk of a leak is minimal. Trying to fix it could lead to more problems than it's worth... been down that road many times... while drilling and trapping new threads isn't all that hard, it's requires some precision and attention to detail. If the motor isn't critical and want to use this as a learning experience, than go right ahead and give it a try, otherwise my vote is don't mess with it.

 

[Pumpman1968]

Looks to me that the easiest would cut a groove on the end on the bolt that is exposed and turn the damn thing back out the way it came in with a flat screwdriver.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Put some Kroil, blaster, or an ATF/acetone mix on it and soak it for a day or so. Then Use a transfer punch to mark the center of the bolt. Then use progressively bigger left handed drill bits until it comes out or only the thread section is left then pull the thread section out with needle nose pliers.

With a little practice it does work.

Chris

These were on my wife's car.

 

[steveo3002]

throw the engine in the back of your car and take it somewhere that can weld to it , shouldnt cost alot

 

[Danglerb]

Be happy, nice cheap soft bolt, easy access so you can work on it comfortably with good light etc.

Soak with the ATF/Acetone mix, then center punch and SLOWLY drill out the center with a left hand drill and work up the size until you can try a bolt remover.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I don't see enough of the bolt sticking up if any to get an extractor on it or enough to tac a nut on the end.

Just drill it. You can try oils and elixirs, but it will only delay inevitable. Usually I try extractor first and drill second. Very rarely have I had success with penetrants and vise grips unless the bolt is much longer out the top.

 

[Cadillac fan]

Thanks guys, I think I'll just stick with an extractor. I am looking at these: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...w-Extractor-Set-7-Piece.aspx?pid=104279#Cross

Anyone ever used them? to me they look like rubbish but the only other ones I can get in a store around here are $80+ for a set.

 

[jetmech09]

http://store.snapon.com/Multi-Spline-Extractors-Extractor-Multi-Spline-1-8--P635483.aspx

Going to be your best bet. These, I find, work the best. If that's too small, REX105A calls for a 5/32nd drill. The one I linked is 1/8" drill (typically used on #10 and 1/4 screws/bolts)

 

[Cadillac fan]

I did what Pumpman said and it worked. All I had to do was hit an old screwdriver to make the groove and just undid it.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[1steve]

Here are the pics of the bolt. the photos might be quite big so sorry about that.

Looks like an alignment pin NOT a broken bolt.......see if it will drive out with a punch.

 

[Transman304]

Looks like an alignment pin NOT a broken bolt.......see if it will drive out with a punch.

That is dowel pin Take a punch and drive it through.
You wont have sump bolts that close together. Going to be another pin on opposite side.

 

[lakota]

This
QuikCenter Broken Bolt Remover

WWW.QUIKCENTER.COM
use promo code YOUTUBE for 10% off order from webste

 

[BajaBound]

I would still soak the pin and the punch it through

 

[e-tek]

THAT picture was certainly worth a THOUSAND (previous) words now, wasn't it?!

 

[Wakefield]

To answer some questions

I do believe that this is a cast iron bore as it is about as old as one of the other B&S engines I have that is made of iron.

Unfortunately I do not own a welder at this time.

The bolt is missing the head and about 5mm off the top.

sorry, I am new to this stuff so can someone explain what a left handed drill bit is?

Are you sure that there wasn't a dowel in that hole rather than a bolt? If so should be able to continue with taking the engine apart-the dowel will usually stay in the top half of the engine as I recall--is important to get that crankshaft clean and smooth where it goes through the oil seal/main bearing area before pulling through.

 

[Cadillac fan]

*Facepalm*

I realised it was a dowel pin. I wondered why it came out so easily. When I first saw it might of been the pin but then saw the other side, the pin was missing so that is what led me to believe that it was a broken bolt. Luckily I looked where I put the engine and found it just lying there (no idea how it fell out).

Thanks again guys.

 

[oldldh]

Obviously---

After the profanity...

 

[Wakefield]

Probably would be a good idea to have both of them in whet putting it back together-alignment insurance

 

[Justanoldguy]

Well that was exciting..