How to remove a broken off 1/8" npt.....

[bad_idea]

Sooo ahh... Today at work I noticed the 50 hp motor we just had rigged into place has a broken off piece of 1/8" npt pipe for the front grease pipe. The pipe is broken off flush with the housing of the motor. How do I get that back out? I have had bad luck with easy outs in the past trying to remove a broken off pipe thread before. Any ideas?

 

[Alchymist]

Might try this:

 

[ScottS]

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Pipe-Extractor

Thes just work for pipe and work well for me for your situation. They will exert more force as you crank on them to get the pipe out of the hole.

Scott

 

[theknurl]

Alchymist;
its 1/8" NTP.....i have the same ones for 1/2" and 3/4" pipe
i doubt them make them for 1/8"

ScottS;
your link doesn't work

 

[OccupantRJ]

A proper size cold chisel driven into the remains of the fitting can be used as a remover, turned with a wrench.

 

[kbs2244]

First, will you need the hole in the future?
Maybe just plug it and forget it?

Otherwise, can you get a left hand twist drill?
Nowdays,.battery powered drills make it easy to drill “backwards.”
If it doesn’t un-twist it’ self, you will have a nice new hole to tap and plug.
But you need to be real careful where the chips go!

 

[BD1]

1/8'' is a little rough. Get a small diamond point or cape chisel. Try to collapse the ****** inward so you can grab and turn with needle nose.
Depending on location, I have welded a flat washer to the flush pipe stub
with a tig welder. Then weld a nut to the flat washer.

 

[Sticks]

1/8" pipe is itty bitty.

Try to drill the bore a little larger so you can get a small extractor in it. If all else you may need to drill it out, or at least to the point you can get it to collapse in on itself with a center punch.

 

[ScottS]

ScottS;
your link doesn't work

Thanks

Fixed it.

Scott

 

[joe49]

there are easy outs that are straight with wings and are not tapered. Try mcmaster-carr

 

[diesel research]

 

[Spareparts]

Be careful putting grease in a motor, it only takes a pump ot two otherwise it will push the seal out of the bearing, remember a little dab will do ya.

 

[Jagmandave]

With small fittings like this I've had good luck sticking the tapered end of a file into the remains of the fitting - give it a couple of taps to get it to bite the fitting - then use a crescent wrench to twist it out. I've found most easy outs tend to expand the fitting tighter into the hole....

 

[bad_idea]

A file huh? Interesting. I will give that a try. I think I will buy the Ridgid pipe extractors too. I have had this problem before with diff sized pipe threads and think the set would come in handy. I found the pipe extractors on ebay for $50, free shipping. Anyone know where I can pick them up cheaper?

 

[N.I.]

1/8" pipe threads are easy peasy and considering it is a grease fitting, it probably won't even be seized in.

The hole drilled out to the correct size for an easy out should take it out no problem.

If not, use the correct size drill bit for the minor thread diameter (or one very near it) and remove the remaining sliver with a punch / pliers.

Remember the fitting has a perfectly aligned pilot hole which makes it easy.

 

[bad_idea]

I would have already done that N.I., BUT, it is a freshly rewound 50 hp motor. The fitting is for the front bearing. The slightest, SLIGHTEST, bit of foreign material dropped into the bearing is a big deal. Drilling into it isn't an option. Tomorrow I will try Jagmandave's file trick and probably order the Ridgid pipe extractors even if I get it out w/ a file. The extractors look good and I can see myself needing them again. I work in ship repair and between the sailors and yard birds they could rip the horns off a bull.

 

[N.I.]

I would have already done that N.I., BUT, it is a freshly rewound 50 hp motor. The fitting is for the front bearing. The slightest, SLIGHTEST, bit of foreign material dropped into the bearing is a big deal. Drilling into it isn't an option. Tomorrow I will try Jagmandave's file trick and probably order the Ridgid pipe extractors even if I get it out w/ a file. The extractors look good and I can see myself needing them again. I work in ship repair and between the sailors and yard birds they could rip the horns off a bull.

Ahh, that kinda mixes things up.

The file trick is probably your best punt. I have had good luck with the proto tapered type extractor, which may be slightly better.

Hopefully the grease has kept the corrosion at bay.

 

[rslaback]

In terms of shavings, can you flip the motor over to drill? Otherwise you could also load the bit with grease to catch the shavings. that trick is used when putting in a spark plug insert without taking the head off.

 

[bad_idea]

The motor weighs 1200 lbs. Flipping it over is a bit of a feat!

 

[pop pop]

I've done similar with the end of a file also. Use grease to catch any filing/slivers if there isn't already grease in the pipe. If on the bottom, better, if on top, tap the file several times, rack it side to side, then rap it a few more before putting the adj. wrench on it. You may have to shorten the file. Dont' let it extend too far and damage something important.

Of course you have priced files lately too??

 

[Fixnair]

I've turned wrenches for 50 years now ant the best screw extractor for the money is the tapered square type. It won't expand the broken bolt as much as the reverse threaded type. don't skimp on cost here. Get a good quality one that is made from good hardened steel.
One thing you have to remember is if the bolt broke because it was fractured or over torqued, the threaded portion of the screw is probably still good and an easy out will remove the broken part.
But if the screw broke because it bottomed out or the threads became galled up, realize the strongest method of removal wasn't strong enough to remove the stuck thread in the first place. IE the bolt head. So any form of removal system will never be as strong as the original. Your best bet is to drill out the original bolt and retread it. I know this sounds like a lot of work but it is less than removing a broken easy out.

 

[bad_idea]

With small fittings like this I've had good luck sticking the tapered end of a file into the remains of the fitting - give it a couple of taps to get it to bite the fitting - then use a crescent wrench to twist it out. I've found most easy outs tend to expand the fitting tighter into the hole....

You sir are the MAN. I looked like a Stud this morning when I went in with a file and pulled that broken fitting out inside of 3 minutes. Garage Journal made me look good again. Thanks guys.