How To: Remove a Jacobs chuck arbor

[s_ontario]

I have a related question. My Milwauke 3/8" drill has a Jacobs 2A tapered chuck. I removed it for cleaning.

How do I reset the chuck on the drill?? I don't want to apply much pressure on the chuck or it might ruin the drill's bearings. Will it hold with only a couple light taps? Should I use locktite?.

Don't use locktite

wipe all mating parts clean and hit it on a block of wood

 

[A_Pmech]

I have a related question. My Milwauke 3/8" drill has a Jacobs 2A tapered chuck. I removed it for cleaning.

How do I reset the chuck on the drill?? I don't want to apply much pressure on the chuck or it might ruin the drill's bearings. Will it hold with only a couple light taps? Should I use locktite?.

Hi Dave,

A couple of solid taps with a non-marring hammer will be sufficient. Not light, but not wailing away on it. If the thrust bearings are in good shape they will not be affected. Both halves should be surgically clean and lightly oiled.

Don't use Loctite, it's unnecessary.

 

[i4ni]

A simple way to remove a threaded chuck that is only secured by the threads. Usualy a (non reversible) drill or drillpress is to insert the chuck key as if you were going to use it to tighten the chuck, but instead give the chuck key a good hard smack counter clockwise to the rotation of the drill with a soft hammer. Works every time.

 

[Nomechanic]

Does anyone know if I can use Jacob wedges to remove a Almond (Asburnham, MA) chuck? I'm trying to remove a 3/4" chuck from a Bradford drill since one of the jaws will not extend out, but I am having trouble removing the check. BTW -- it's an old drill. Thanks.

 

[onewaydave]

I've been had by my own inattentiveness. I read;

How To: Remove a Jacobs chuck arbor, by

A Pmech

and thought, WTF. This guy is young, compulsive, focused, sharper than a whip, an AP mech and probably a master machinist and he doesn't know how to work on Jacob chucks?

As usual, I open one of APmech's threads and learn a lot. I now realize there is no "?" in the title!

Thanks for the lessons,

Dave, yeah I see it is an old threat but thanks are thanks.

 

[oldtools]

Interesting info. Thanks for spending the time to educate us on how to remove a taper from a chuck. I bought an old CP air drill with a Jacob chuck for $3. Unfortunately, I didn't pay attention to the condition of the chuck before I buy it. Now I need to replace it with a working chuck, but I am having some difficulty removing it.

 

[A_Pmech]

Does anyone know if I can use Jacob wedges to remove a Almond (Asburnham, MA) chuck? I'm trying to remove a 3/4" chuck from a Bradford drill since one of the jaws will not extend out, but I am having trouble removing the check. BTW -- it's an old drill. Thanks.

Have a look up inside the chuck. Is there a screw of some sort right in the center between the jaws? If so, you have a threaded mount chuck and the screw needs to come out before you can unthread the chuck. It will have left hand threads.

If there's no screw, you have a taper mount chuck and appropriate wedges may work for you depending on the arbor size. If the arbor shoulder doesn't give you enough bite, I'd drill and press the chuck like I show in this thread.

Thanks for the lessons,

Dave, yeah I see it is an old threat but thanks are thanks.

lol Dave, I've done that before. Then I have to re-read the thread to figure out just what's going on.

You're welcome!

Now I need to replace it with a working chuck, but I am having some difficulty removing i

Usually putting a 3/8" allen wrench in the chuck (after removing the retaining screw) and tapping it with a hammer in the correct direction (left hand threads) will work. If that doesn't work, get out your 1/2" drive allen keys and use an impact gun. Warning: You can damage the reduction gear in the drill so be gentle.

 

[Nomechanic]

A&P Mech

Thanks for your reply against an older thread. My chuck (made by Acorn Mfg) doesn't have the screw so it appears to be tapered and stuck inplace fairly well. I was worried about a FUBAR situation if I started drilling the center out, but since I probably wont repair the old chuck....I got nothing to lose. I will try to get my hands on some Jacobs wedges and see if that route works frist -- there seems to be plenty of room against the drill housing. BTW -- the Bradford 7.0A drill is a beast....turns at 260rpm at full throttle....I purchased it for $1 in an auction a few years back and it works wonders for stuff that I can't get under the drill press. Thanks again for your help.
Nomechanic

 

[JayL]

Thank you very much for this informative thread.

Currently hunting for a 14N and am now more informed after reading this.

 

[rockchucker]

Thanks for the write-up! Very informative!

Nice Hammer! I see you have chosen the weight of the Steel Face and the non marring quality of the Nylon! I like being able to choose from Steel, Brass or Aluminum depending on how much head weight I want the Hammer to have and what Striking surface to couple with it. I usually leave the Piston Installation Nylon with the Nylon Face for installation of Seals. Of course the 3 other Faces are always close by... =)

 

[porphyre]

Since this thread has been necro'd maybe I can ask some advice here....

Just got a drill press. 3/4hp, 12 speeds, etc etc. Pretty standard.

However, it's got no chuck because it was previously used with MT drill bits. It's MT2 and the nameplate says 5/8" capacity, so it's not designed for huge chucks.

I have no clue what chuck to buy, nor where to buy it. I understand I need a chuck and a Morse Taper adapter.

My main use will be woodworking stuff. Mostly Forstner bits and I may get some sort of mortising attachment. I'm not planning on doing much (any?) metalworking with it. Slow speed is still 320rpm.

So what chuck should I buy and where should I buy it? Brands? Styles? Order from McMaster or Grainger? I'd really like to keep chuck + adapter in the neighborhood of $100.

 

[Monte]

Brands?

Rohm for example:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2

or therse from Albrecht - the best ones:

http://www.nolansupply.com/superth.asp?supercategory=Drill+Chucks

 

[A_Pmech]

My main use will be woodworking stuff. Mostly Forstner bits and I may get some sort of mortising attachment. I'm not planning on doing much (any?) metalworking with it. Slow speed is still 320rpm.

So what chuck should I buy and where should I buy it? Brands? Styles? Order from McMaster or Grainger? I'd really like to keep chuck + adapter in the neighborhood of $100.

I would look for a Jacobs 14N used on Ebay. It is a 0 - 1/2" capacity ball bearing chuck. Buying a nice used example will keep you around the $100 range shipped. New, the 14N is around $190 and a new arbor is around $60.

Keep in mind that all the new Jacobs chucks are made in China. The Jacobs company was purchased by a Chinese outfit several years ago. Their quality is as you would expect: Poor.

Rohm and Albrect are also good choices, although I am not familiar with their product offerings.

 

[porphyre]

I would look for a Jacobs 14N used on Ebay. It is a 0 - 1/2" capacity ball bearing chuck. Buying a nice used example will keep you around the $100 range shipped. New, the 14N is around $190 and a new arbor is around $60.

Keep in mind that all the new Jacobs chucks are made in China. The Jacobs company was purchased by a Chinese outfit several years ago. Their quality is as you would expect: Poor.

Rohm and Albrect are also good choices, although I am not familiar with their product offerings.

Thanks for the specific recommendation.... but your recommendation provides a certain bit of schizophrenia...

Are you saying the old Made In USA Jacobs brand chucks are decent quality but the new Made In China ones are junk?

 

[A_Pmech]

Are you saying the old Made In USA Jacobs brand chucks are decent quality but the new Made In China ones are junk?

Correct.

You can differentiate USA made "Super Chucks" from the Chinese versions by the following:

1) All USA chucks that I am aware of are roll marked. Roll marking, much like stamping, is a metal displacement operation which results in a deep, indelible mark. The Chinese chucks are etched. The etching process used on the new chucks is a surface treatment which can be rubbed off with Scotch Brite.

2) USA chucks will be marked with the location of the plant and "USA". The Chinese chucks have no country of origin marking.

 

[porphyre]

Perfect. Differentiating between PRC/USA was going to be my next question. I'm just finishing up the cleaning/lubing/repairing, so it's definitely chuck time.

 

[JayL]

Notice anything on the front end of this chuck? Are the 2 grooves originally there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250971255962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

[JayL]

Anybody tried this chuck below? Will be used on a drill press drilling mild steel max 1/2" thick. Forward direction only as reverse is not needed.

I found one new being sold for around $48 w/ a MT2 arbor included.

http://www.machinetools4sale.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=3299

Thanks

 

[Provincial]

I was cringing looking at the pics of you drilling out the chuck..

Why don't Jacobs drill them out from new, knowing that the hole can be required for arbor removal?



*giggles*

Since this thread seems to have revived, I'll answer this question: The chucks have a solid web (not drilled through) because under heavy use the drill bit tends to slip down the jaws and seat against the back of the recess that holds the jaws. If the web was drilled and the bit shank was the same size or smaller, any end pressure would transfer directly to the arbor, which isn't bad. If the drill shank was bigger than the hole, the pressure would transfer to the chuck body, but across a much smaller area. If the drill shank happened to be slightly larger than the hole, it might be forced into the hole and jam there, which would be a nuisance.

A drilled web allows the drill pressure to transfer directly to the arbor. A solid web applys the drill pressure to the chuck body, and it then presses the body tighter onto the arbor taper.

The manufacturer assumes that the arbor will be installed on the chuck and remain there for the life of the chuck. In practice, the holding end of the arbor (the end that goes into the machine tool) gets beat up from handling and is discarded when the chuck wears out.

 

[JayL]

Finally found a New Old Stock Jacobs 16N w/ an import MT2 arbor freebie

I'm not so sure yet if it's a good idea to use this import arbor or to hunt a Jacobs made one ... MT2 to JT3.

Many thanks to John for the selection tips.

 

[porphyre]

JayL - Mind sharing where/how much you got it for? I'm still looking around for a steal on a 14N as APMech suggested. A package deal, chuck and arbor, is right up my alley.

 

[JayL]

JayL - Mind sharing where/how much you got it for? I'm still looking around for a steal on a 14N as APMech suggested. A package deal, chuck and arbor, is right up my alley.

I'm in the Philippines and purchased this locally. NOS by chance for $101. The other ones they had were Made in China already.

However before I got this I was watching a few 14 and 16N in Ebay.

This one looks to be US Made. It has been relisted 2 times as far as I know.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130631901736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140678581689?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

This one below is Chinese made

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180801083335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Lots of used and slightly used 14 & 16N in Ebay.

Hope you find a good deal.

 

[porphyre]

Ah, purchased locally. There are a number of retailers that sell the chucks used for less than $50. If I could find a NOS one in the $80 range, that'd be perfect.

 

[JayL]

Ah, purchased locally. There are a number of retailers that sell the chucks used for less than $50. If I could find a NOS one in the $80 range, that'd be perfect.

I think that would be a good target range. This Super Chuck is a really serious tool. I'm glad I purchased one.

 

[A_Pmech]

Looks like you did well Jay!