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How to remove a metal box in a finished wall?

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
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Northeastern CT
I need to remove a metal box in a finished wall, and was wondering if there is any magical tricks that will make the job easier. The box is attached to a stud with a metal strap that is welded to one side of the box. I don't want to damage the wall, and there is only one wire in the box. This is why, I need to remove the box, because when the carpenter nailed it to the wall, he didn't put the wire under the clamp, and knocked out the 1/2" knockout on the top of the box, and just pushed the wire in through that hole. I wrongly assumed that he knew enough that he would have done it correctly, so I didn't check it till today, when I was going to put the outlet into the box. Once I get the metal box out, I will replace it with a plastic box with the tabs that swing out when you tighten them, or another metal box with Madison straps.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
 
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Dustball

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Hudson, WI
Use a plastic NM push-in connector in the 1/2" KO hole.

3650978.jpg
 

CJ7VFR

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Central New Jersey
Use a plastic NM push-in connector in the 1/2" KO hole.

3650978.jpg

+2.

I have used these same push-in connectors to protect/hold some of the wiring that the former owner of my house did. These connectors are cheap, easy to put around existing wiring push into the box, and help secure the wires.

Jim
 

Gotcha640

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Houston TX
I guess I'm not understanding the concern. I've lived in several houses where I've replaced outlets, putting in child safe sliders or decora style or usb, and I've seen several with metal boxes and the wire just dropped through the hole. I don't know what it's supposed to look like, so I assumed it was acceptable.
 
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J

Junkman

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Thanks for the suggestion and picture. I will pick up a package of them on Monday, when the supply house opens. Glad that I don't have to knock myself out trying to remove that box.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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South of omaha
+2.

I have used these same push-in connectors to protect/hold some of the wiring that the former owner of my house did. These connectors are cheap, easy to put around existing wiring push into the box, and help secure the wires.

Jim
They're made to be installed outside/in,its a little tougher to get the wires in them the other way.
 

CJ7VFR

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They're made to be installed outside/in,its a little tougher to get the wires in them the other way.

I know, but they can be placed over the sheathing on the wires and "slid" into the box from the outside and snapped into the box if you pry the wire holding tabs open just a bit and then spray some WD40 on the wire holding tabs before you put these on the wires. Once they are in place the wire holding tabs will slowly go back to their original position and clamp down on the wiring.

I had several boxes that I found the PO just ran the wiring into an open hole in the box. The wires were all stapled less than a foot from the box, but I wanted to protect the wires from coming in contact with the sharp edges on the hole in the box. These worked perfect for that.

Jim
 
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cybrdyke

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USA
This one is made to install from the inside of the box to do exactly what you want.
Raco #4714
4714_zpsg16uehfi.jpg
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Good luck
CD
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
I guess I'm not understanding the concern. I've lived in several houses where I've replaced outlets, putting in child safe sliders or decora style or usb, and I've seen several with metal boxes and the wire just dropped through the hole. I don't know what it's supposed to look like, so I assumed it was acceptable.

Wire is suppose to be secured to the box.

Plastic boxes have tabs that secure the wire.

NM cable clamps are suppose to be used on metal boxes.
 

PugetDude

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Mar 13, 2013
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Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
They're made to be installed outside/in,its a little tougher to get the wires in them the other way.

With only one wire, you can collapse the split clamp tightly around the wire, push it into the knockout hole "upside down" from the inside of the box with a pair of bent-nose needlenose pliers. Release it when the upper locking tabs clear the box; it will open up on its own into the correct position. It's really more of a bushing than a clamp, anyway.
 
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Junkman

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Northeastern CT
Thanks for all the replies with suggestions and help.
I tried the first plastic NM connector, with no success. I fought with it for about a half hour, and finally admitted defeat. I then tried to pull the strap loose from the wood to get the whole box out. That didn't work very well, since it was attached with sheetrock screws. Finally bent the box to the point that I was able to remove half of it, and the wood that it was secured to, came loose. I was finally able to maneuver the wood to a place where I could pull it through the hole. I installed a blue plastic old work box, and all is good. The only thing that I have left to do with it, is to install the receptacles and put on the cover.
 
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