How to remove pulley from old planer motor?

[remagenman]

This is a vintage motor from a 220v cast iron bench mounted planer. It was heavy, loud and not too useful since I have a modern planer.

The motor itself is about 100 lbs and I want to use it to make a 20" disc sander. I can't see a set screw on the pulley so dont know if I would use a gear puller or insert 2 screws to screw off the wheel?

The 2 bigger holes on the first wheel just go through the larger pulley and the 2 smaller holes are very small.

 

[Jarwop]

Are there set screws in the two holes of the pulley? Might be two piece pully with allen screws pulling them together to tighten to the motor shaft.

If not, I'd use both methods, three arm puller, only through the inside of the pulley. Pulling from the outside will likely break it. Put a spacer behind the bolt holes to spread the force across the casting of the motor. Go slow only after a day of so of soaking with Kroil or your favored Penetrating fluid.

 

[619DioFan]

Probably a press fit. A three jaw puller pulling on the center as stated above a,harmonic balancer puller using the 4 holes in the middle might also work.

 

[Milton Shaw]

The small holes are the holes for screws to remove the flange from the pulley. Usually something like a 1/4 20 thread. They are there to force the taper apart and then the pulley and flange come off easily. Those are standard browning type pulley and flange. Flanges are available in many different sizes so that the pulley is a multi fit. No puller necessary just use the screws to separate.

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes it pays to read technical literature.

The small holes are the holes for screws to remove the flange from the pulley. Usually something like a 1/4 20 thread. They are there to force the taper apart and then the pulley and flange come off easily. Those are standard browning type pulley and flange. Flanges are available in many different sizes so that the pulley is a multi fit. No puller necessary just use the screws to separate.

 

[mitusa]

What Milton said......the inner hub is cone shaped and use the screws to push the outer hub off the inner hub. After it comes off, the inner hub should come off with a little pulling.

These are used a lot on farm equipment.

 

[rkevins]

remove the set screws and thread them in the other holes they will separate the sheave from the taper then you can remove the taper from the motor shaft. You may want to soak it all with penetrating oil first.

 

[remagenman]

The small holes are the holes for screws to remove the flange from the pulley. Usually something like a 1/4 20 thread. They are there to force the taper apart and then the pulley and flange come off easily. Those are standard browning type pulley and flange. Flanges are available in many different sizes so that the pulley is a multi fit. No puller necessary just use the screws to separate.

Thanks, exactly a 1/4 bolt separated the big pulley from smaller wheel. Really easy. The big pulley wheel is a few inches towards the motor, loose now.

ps, the smaller wheel is still on, does it matter if I pull or push it back or forward to remove? I don't know if it a tapered key and should only come off in one direction?

 

[gorilla]

The inner bushing should have slots that you can expand by misusing a screwdriver. use some penetrating oil and it should tap right off. Tapered key is highly unusual.

 

[Spareparts]

Just tap a flat tip screwdriver into the split, just be easy with, if you go to far it will snap
the inner hub in two pieces, from experience, use some WD-40 or something like that

 

[remagenman]

The inner bushing should have slots that you can expand by misusing a screwdriver. use some penetrating oil and it should tap right off. Tapered key is highly unusual.

Thanks, never seen misusing used as a proper way to do something!

 

[matt_i]

Said in other words earlier but that's a classic taperlock sheave with a -QD- hub on it (the flange).

Figure out what screws go into the tapped holes and carefully tighten those incrementally to jack the taperlock apart.

When reassembling the sheave this is not a place to go Captain America on the bolt torque, the outward pressure from the wedge action is well within range of splitting (exploding) the center hub on the sheave. Typically split lock washers are used (could also use loc-tite) to keep the relatively low-torque fasteners engaged.

 

[nadogail]

I suggest you tighten jacking screws a quarter turn at at a time after they begin to push on the locking cone.

 

[larry_g]

https://www.baldor.com/mvc/DownloadCenter/Files/MN4049

The above has the installation instructions for tapered QD bushings.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The small holes are the holes for screws to remove the flange from the pulley. Usually something like a 1/4 20 thread. They are there to force the taper apart and then the pulley and flange come off easily. Those are standard browning type pulley and flange. Flanges are available in many different sizes so that the pulley is a multi fit. No puller necessary just use the screws to separate.

X2. Must have removed/installed hundreds over the years. Make sure you tighten the screws EVENLY as you press the sheave off the hub. 1/4-20 bolts shear pretty easy...

Tommy

 

[rburke65]

That’s why I like this f9rum…ya learn something everyday