how to remove quill from drill press?

[tommydog35]

I have a drill press where the teeth have shattered on the quill. (shown by red arrow in photo) I obviously need to remove the quill, but can't see how you can do this on the press I have (see photos)

Other drill presses I have had in the past, you just remove the spring and then pull the handle out of the press complete with gearing - like in this video ( at 3:05 minutes):

Any idea how I do this with the press pictured?

 

[matt_i]

Somehow the pinion that drives the quill down has to be removed.

In picture #1 and picture #2 above there's a little square-headed jobbie which looks like it has threads. Does the pilot-point of that go into a square groove in the pinion shaft?

Its just a guess, look all around for setscrews. Pic #2 has some sort of raised thing up inside the casting on the left side of the photo which looks like it could be a setscrew internal hex....but it seems like a longshot due to the difficulty of actually drilling and tapping that hole...

 

[tommydog35]

Somehow the pinion that drives the quill down has to be removed.

In picture #1 and picture #2 above there's a little square-headed jobbie which looks like it has threads. Does the pilot-point of that go into a square groove in the pinion shaft?

Its just a guess, look all around for setscrews. Pic #2 has some sort of raised thing up inside the casting on the left side of the photo which looks like it could be a setscrew internal hex....but it seems like a longshot due to the difficulty of actually drilling and tapping that hole...

Thanks for your reply. The "square headed jobbie" you refer to was just something to keep the spring in. I have removed it now. As for the raised up thing inside the casting, that was just a bit of Greece that I have cleaned. I really cant see any set screws. I have taken a couple more pictures, the one with the arrow shows the end of the quill, so it really is just a matter of removing the pinion and it should come out easily.








free jpeg images

 

[Spareparts]

On the 3rd picture down the shaft has a hole in the top of it, maybe a pin type spanner wrench fit's there and it turns out to release the pinion shaft so it can slide out. It was put together it has to come apart. I bet that pinion is keyed on the shaft. This is going to get interesting. I have seen collars like that on other old machines, not only to capture the shaft but to adjust tension and side to side movement. chip the paint around the boss and see if their is a set screw buried in there.

 

[tommydog35]

On the 3rd picture down the shaft has a hole in the top of it, maybe a pin type spanner wrench fit's there and it turns out to release the pinion shaft so it can slide out. It was put together it has to come apart. I bet that pinion is keyed on the shaft. This is going to get interesting. I have seen collars like that on other old machines, not only to capture the shaft but to adjust tension and side to side movement. chip the paint around the boss and see if their is a set screw buried in there.

I scraped away at the paint and got a very high powered light and managed to find a recessed set screw on the underside. Here are the pictures of it and the quill and pinion out:







I now need to decide what to do about the damage

 

[matt_i]

Personally I think that might be a tough weld. I'm guessing here that the quill is hardened, and not being very thick, this goes almost all the way thru. If you are quite used to the preheat, weld, and post-heat drill, then you may be OK, but its sort of high stakes in not having a spare part available.

I would disassemble the quill and extract the bearings and buy new ones, clean everything up with brake cleaner or parts washer. Then I would use some flux coated bronze brazing rod to fill in the damaged area (oxyacetylene heat). You could start with a dremel tool and finish with a file in re-shaping the teeth in this area. Probably will take some tuning of reassembling the pinion and the quill-tube a few times to check for any binds or little errors in the new teeth that need a slight bit of material removed. You can use a sharpie marker to color in an area and then mesh the parts and roll gently, if there are interferences this will scrub off the marker or leave a more visible imprint as to where you need to work.

 

[tommydog35]

Thanks Matt. I will have a go at doing what you said, although I think this is going to be a tricky repair.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Weld in the damaged teeth area with brass. Then use a file to reform the missing teeth. If this is an HF drill press, do yourself a favour and scrap it. It may have been a good idea to check the quill for run-out before it was taken apart. If the run-out is more than .001" and you have some expectation of accuracy, it will never happen.
You need to buy an inexpensive parts wash solvent tank. I have had the same Canadian Made parts power wash tank since 1964. Three years ago I had to replace the submergible pump.
Check eBay for parts. What is the make of this drillpress??

 

[Spareparts]

Someone was rough on that to shear it like that, I know someone in KC that could build a new one for you. Is there any chance of getting a new one. Glad you got it out.

 

[matt_i]

I know someone in KC that could build a new one for you.

I would think it wouldn't be very cost competitive for 1-off repro. Machine new tube on lathe plus bearing seats, snap ring groove(s) to likely specific length dimension, build form cutter for rack to match likely stub-tooth form, mill rack, send for case-hardening, possibly grind OD and bearing seats back to dimension because of the carburizing "growth". Easily a $500-1000 part....