How to Remove RotaBroach Bit

[ericlar80]

I'm wondering how you guys remove a rotabroach bit from the shank? I used one of the larger bits the other day and had a hell of a time trying to get the bit back off again. I used the spacer nut like you are supposed to. I ended up having to use a pair of channellocks in a rag to get it off, but I'm worried that I am going to damage them.

BTW - I cut a 1-3/8" diameter hole into 1/4" mild steel plate as if it was going through wood. Pretty impressive to do that with a drill press, especially when you are used to hole saws.

 

[rsanter]

I use channel locks with the rubber/vynal jaw covers

 

[Worsedog]

Me too.

 

[Samh]

This may help

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...tuck-jammed-weldon-bit-annular-cutter-353257/

 

[Wood'nMetal]

Are you putting the flat sided washer under the broach?

 

[Showkey]

Vise and rag........

 

[PelicanPines]

I keep my shaft lubed.

Rubber tip vise grips and vise

 

[mv213]

I keep my shaft lubed.

TMI !!!!

 

[metalmagpie]

Loosen set screw. Put on welding glove. Remove cutter.

metalmagpie

 

[ericlar80]

Are you putting the flat sided washer under the broach?

I did it per the instructions, which I don't think mentioned the washer. I'll have to look again tonight when I am home.

The idea with the paracord is unique; I'll keep it in mind if it ever becomes stuck.

 

[22george]

Even with the washer that comes with the rotobroach kit I still have to use vise gripsznd a rag. That goes for the smaller cutters too.

 

[astroracer]

Use the washer "nut" to loosen the bit. I clamp the shank in a vise and then use an open ended wrench to turn the washer nut in the CCW direction. The bit should loosen up and spin off by hand.
Mark

 

[Nexussian]

Thanks Astroracer, never thought of using the flats on the washer as wrench flats (got mine years before directions were available online, and with no printed directions. :shrug:

I've used small pieces of lath in a vice to grip the sides of the cutter (place the sharpened end beyond that) with the mandrel still in the drill motor and use the chuck for a handle (insert chuck key if necessary).

 

[Showkey]

Use the washer "nut" to loosen the bit. I clamp the shank in a vise and then use an open ended wrench to turn the washer nut in the CCW direction. The bit should loosen up and spin off by hand.
Mark

So that’s what the nuts is for...............

 

[22george]

Use the washer "nut" to loosen the bit. I clamp the shank in a vise and then use an open ended wrench to turn the washer nut in the CCW direction. The bit should loosen up and spin off by hand.
Mark

DUHHH. So simple. Why didn't the rest of us think of it

My washer doesn't have flats, but easy enough to do.

Thanks from the rest of us for the tip

 

[ericlar80]

Use the washer "nut" to loosen the bit. I clamp the shank in a vise and then use an open ended wrench to turn the washer nut in the CCW direction. The bit should loosen up and spin off by hand.
Mark

When you say CCW, does that mean tighten down against the arbor? I'm going to have to try this next time; thanks for the tip.

 

[astroracer]

When you say CCW, does that mean tighten down against the arbor? I'm going to have to try this next time; thanks for the tip.

No, I mean to turn it the same way the broach would turn to come off the arbor. Looking at the broach end of the tool, turn the "nut" CCW to loosen the broach. This works every time for me on the larger arbor. The small arbor doesn't use the "nut" but I am thinking about making one for that purpose...
Mark

 

[ericlar80]

I did try that initially, but I felt like I was going to break the threaded shaft on the arbor since the nut essentially becomes a jam nut.

 

[Buickspec6231]

Make sure the cutter is on there good and tight before using it to cut. If you don't it gets extra tight, the same way you take a hammer to a wrench to smack a stuck nut loose. It makes coming off easier.

 

[astroracer]

Make sure the cutter is on there good and tight before using it to cut. If you don't it gets extra tight, the same way you take a hammer to a wrench to smack a stuck nut loose. It makes coming off easier.

That's a good point right there... I do tighten the broach up a bit before I start cutting with it. The nut will be pretty tight after use and it usually takes one or two full revs before you can feel it loosen up. At that point the broach should just about spin off.
All of these parts are hardened so you aren't going to hurt anything by forcing the "issue" a bit...
Mark

 

[ndnchf]

I really like how well they cut, but they really need to come up with a better way to remove them. I've had the washer turn without unscrewing the cutter, it just slips. I've ended up using vise grips which I hate doing.

 

[astroracer]

I really like how well they cut, but they really need to come up with a better way to remove them. I've had the washer turn without unscrewing the cutter, it just slips. I've ended up using vise grips which I hate doing.

That's what it's supposed to do. "Slip". It may take 3 or more full revolutions of the washer to loosen the cutter enough to spin off. Once the washer is spinning freely the cutter should spin right off. Unless you have a boogered thread on the arbor or cutter.
Mark

 

[Farmallgray]

I just clamp the cutter in a vise with aluminum jaw caps and turn the shank with pliers.

I only have a small set and I haven't used them for a while, but I don't remember the washer or nut you guys are talking about. Anyone got pics?

 

[ericlar80]

I really like how well they cut, but they really need to come up with a better way to remove them. I've had the washer turn without unscrewing the cutter, it just slips. I've ended up using vise grips which I hate doing.

Recently I have been clamping the shaft in a soft jaw vise. Then I turn the washer with a wrench while also turning the cutter with my hand. It makes it come off really easy. The only issue I ran into with a tight cutter was that the washer broke in half because it was brittle. I ended up making my own from a grade 8 washer and it works fine.

 

[ericlar80]

I just clamp the cutter in a vise with aluminum jaw caps and turn the shank with pliers.

I only have a small set and I haven't used them for a while, but I don't remember the washer or nut you guys are talking about. Anyone got pics?

It's basically a washer that has two flat spots instead of being a full circle. You are supposed to put the washer on before the cutter.

 

[astroracer]

The smaller set of broaches does not include a washer.
Mark

 

[ndnchf]

My small Blair set came with the flat sided washer.

 

[astroracer]

Really? How long have you had it? I've had mine for a long time and it didn't have the washer...
Mark

 

[ndnchf]

I bought mine last summer.

 

[plinker]

I've found if you put the large flat spring washer on opposite of the way the instructions say, the cutter comes off easier.

The washer has flats for a 3/4 wrench, I usually used either a 7/16 (IIRC) or a Vise grip 7LW locking wrench on the arbor. Sometimes channellocks if it was a smaller cutter with the shoulder (grip on the shoulder).

 

[bobs409]

I just bought the small sets in SAE and Metric and can't believe they don't have a better way of removing these dang cutters! This is ridiculous.


Turning the flat sided washer does nothing, it just keeps spinning and does not loosen the cutter. Why didn't they put flats on the cutters or something?


This company is well known and sells expensive tools, not something I'd expect in this case. I'm just amazed on this...


I guess I'll have to clamp the damn thing in my vise to get it off!

 

[ericlar80]

I just bought the small sets in SAE and Metric and can't believe they don't have a better way of removing these dang cutters! This is ridiculous.


Turning the flat sided washer does nothing, it just keeps spinning and does not loosen the cutter. Why didn't they put flats on the cutters or something?


This company is well known and sells expensive tools, not something I'd expect in this case. I'm just amazed on this...


I guess I'll have to clamp the damn thing in my vise to get it off!

While turning the washer, hold the bit and turn it too.

 

[mikegt4]

Today I used my newly purchased RotaBroach to drill some holes (7/8" and 1") in 3/8" hot rolled strip. Followed the directions in the box, slid the flat washer with flats on to the shank then screwed on the cutter finger tight. Drilled the holes then before removing the bit from the mill used an 11/16" wrench to turn the flat washer about a 1/4" turn which loosened the cutter. Easy peasy. I suspect that many have over tightened the cutter on to the shank, it just needs to make contact with the washer, no more than finger tight. The cutter isn't going to fall off so no need to crank it on the shank.

BTW, it drilled some very nice, clean holes.

 

[walrus]

I use Blair holcutters all the time. Knipex cobras with the holcutter chucked in drill, no issues getting them off