How to remove this broken exhaust stud?

[atikovi]

Has 4 or 5 threads remaining from an M10 stud and I've sprayed it with Kroil. Not welding a nut to it. I do have a Mini Inductor if I should heat it up. Would any of these stud removers work?

 

[GTA Matt]

You're going to need to heat the flange with a torch until that corner is glowing, the best extractor would probably be a twist socket.

 

[pajibson]

Miniductor, kroil, beeswax repeat a few times and then try the removers from the 2nd picture. Had pretty good luck with that technique.

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[theoldwizard1]

The secret is wax after heating. Stud remover would be required because I don't think there is enough exposed threads for adouble nut.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

If you have a mig (best) or stick welder, find a nut that fits the thread, get a couple of threads engaged, weld inside the nut, welding the stud to the nut. Let it cool down and wrench it out. The heat from welding will break the molecular bond between the stud and the manifold.
If you don't have access to a welder, heat the area on the flange surrounding the stud until cherry red, then use vice grips or a small pipe wrench on the stud and back her out.

 

[FullRaceMerc]

Anything that grabs it will probably work. Vise grips should work with that much sticking out.

Typically the real trick is patience. Not applying too much force & breaking it off before it is ready to go. Days of soaking sometimes helps. Heat applied to the metal around the stud sometimes does too. I use a map gas torch (whatever the new not so hot replacement for old MAPP gas is called). Multiple heating & cooling cycles can do it. Don't use water to cool it. Just let it cool naturally or you can make it brittle. Tapping gently on the stud with a hammer might help vibrate & loosen or work the penetrant into it.

As for which penetrant, I used liquid wrench for years. More recently PB Blaster has been doing fairly well. On one job I tried Sea Foam Deep Creep with great success in a tough situation, but haven't had the chance to use it since, so I don't know if I got lucky once or if it always works like that.

I have the best success working the stud back & forth barely at first. Once it moves at all you know you will eventually get it if you stay patient. Once it moves, soak it more & work it back & forth, trying to increase the travel little by little, & working the lube down the threads. Still don't rush it. Walk away & soak it more if it seems to be taking too long.

If you still break it, avoid using an e-z-out. A stud that won't turn with that much to grab hold of can result in a broken e-z-out, which makes drilling & tapping a lot harder.

 

[Murphy4570]

That is cakewalk with the right tools.

Easy way:

Weld a nut to the stud.
Heat flange around stud dull cherry red with oxy-acetylene torch.
Zip stud off while it's still hot with an impact wrench.
Cool it down and chase threads with a tap.
Done.

Anything that doesn't involve heat is gonna involve a drill and a lot of cussing.

 

[Bobioz1]

No need to weld a nut on that one. Just heat the manifold with a torch and use a visegrip on it. Looks like an easy one.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

if you use heat, do like others have said and keep the heat on the manifold, if you get the heat on the stud you'll twist it right of

 

[mrobins297aaa]

The secret is wax after heating. Stud remover would be required because I don't think there is enough exposed threads for adouble nut.

what does the wax do?, I've never heard that before

 

[ihateminimumwage]

what does the wax do?, I've never heard that before

Heat the stud/bolt and touch the wax to it, the wax runs down the threads and the stuck piece threads right out. I have a small box with some birthday candles in it in my toolbox.
Works like a charm.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

really i'll have to try that

 

[pajibson]

what does the wax do?, I've never heard that before

Beeswax is gods penetrating oil. It'll creep in there better than anything else. Again patience & multiple cycles of heating & cooling are gonna be the key to getting that out without a drill & creative application of harsh language.

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[1982fxr]

On the last pic what are those sockets called?

Also, with some heat on the manifold would s regular stud extractor take that right out? I have a stud extractor like in the second pic but never had to use it...yet.

 

[risc]

I had good luck with the first tool on a similar stud, so go in fact I couldn't get the stud out of the tool. It sat in the back of my tool box for 10 years until I finally threw it away.

 

[warweapon762]

I had good luck with the first tool on a similar stud, so go in fact I couldn't get the stud out of the tool. It sat in the back of my tool box for 10 years until I finally threw it away.

Yeah you gotta be careful with that style of removal tool. I always use some sort of grease on mine because I learned that lesson the hard way.

 

[doogdoog]

Aloha,
Kroil is one of the best so I would make a dam around the stud using clay or putty and fill it with some Kroil and let it sit for a day. Heat the flange and try to turn the stud and if it doesn't come out, fill with Kroil and let stand for a couple of hours and repeat procedure.

Mahalo,
doogdoog

 

[rlitman]

Beeswax is gods penetrating oil. It'll creep in there better than anything else. Again patience & multiple cycles of heating & cooling are gonna be the key to getting that out without a drill & creative application of harsh language.

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+1 Wax is just an oil with a higher boiling point.

Penetrating oils are designed to be used at room temperature. Wax is a better choice if you'll be heating the part.

 

[montanafordman]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192639

check this out.

 

[mbshop]

No one use 50/50 acetone and atf ? Anyway as many have mentioned, use a torch to heat up the manifold and repeat as necessary while working stud back and forth. Never failed.