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how to remove wedge anchor?

PoorOwner

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Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
5,032
Location
CA
I hammered a 5/8" wedge anchor drilled about 2.75" deep.

I had 4 and trying to pull any of them back out, I drove them but they had NOT expanded.
I tried a slide hammer and pry bar, air hammer, nothing seemed to work. I am able to get it to come up a bit, it even wiggles, but the wedge (about last 1") won't come out. I hoped one of them would come out.

I drilled one of them crooked so I couldn't get my fixture over the studs.
Much better to put the fixture before hammering.
I ended up cutting the crooked one and then pushed the remained portion inside the dirt, the slab is thinner than expected and seemed to poked through when I drilled.

Everything hammered down again and tightened ok.. not a real structural so not too concerned

But there has got to be a way to do this?
 
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pbon

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May 14, 2017
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I cut them flush when I removed my lift and sold my house. A little epoxy around them to seal and level would be good. I used a grinder with cutoff wheel but a saws all with long blade you can flex would also work. You can tap them a little further down if you drilled deep enough originally and then fill over. Or you can cut or drill out and then fill in larger holes but you might need a small coresaw for that.
 

Monza Harry

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Dec 29, 2018
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Location
Windsor ON
They are designed to tighten with upward pressure, so short answer is, no the will not be easily removable. About the only way I could see is to use a "Core" drill/cutter [Annular cutter for concrete] and go bigger, or with some kind of epoxy anchor (or?). Harry
Yeah what he said
 
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mark#3

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Feb 2, 2014
Messages
404
I told you the wrong answer, wedge/rock anchor were used for putting anchors in rocky ground thru rocks,(installed with a track drill).There was no removing, dig down, cut off the anchor rod, then bury with dirt.I might have the wrong anchor in mind.
This is from my lineman experience.
 

gmwelder86

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Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
463
Location
Oakdale , ca
Get a 5/8 rebar eater. Preferably an sds but don’t don’t use your roto hammer in hammer mode. Had to drill out 3/4 hilits at work when apprentice pounded them in without checking depth. It **** but doable. Just be glad they aren’t stainless.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,741
Location
SE Michigan
If you drilled thru the slab they can be hammered thru with a 3 or 4lb hammer. If you drilled close to thru the slab, a 10 to 20 sledge hammer may be able to break out the bottom of the slab.

You can drill the steel with a twist bit, you could use a magnetic drill press on a piece of steel plate, flat bar or channel to fixture it.

In the future if there is any way to set the fixture and drill thru that's great. If one stud is holding you out, can either hog out the thru-hole in the base or give the stud a sharp side whack with the head of the hammer skating along the concrete floor. Block of aluminum to cushion the threads somewhat. The stud can be bent slightly without thoroughly destroying its functionality.

Unless its gotta be "right there" many things are moved over 2 inches and re-set there.
 
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