How to rip a 2x12 into 1x

[ddurrett896]

Looking at wall options for garage and set on 1x12x10 vertical pieces of lumber.

1x12x10 = $25
2x12x10 = $14

2x is cheaper and yields 2 pieces, netting to $7/board vs 1x12 at $25/board.

What is the best method to rip the 2x12? My first thought was to cut down my table saw, flip and repeat, but the blade comes out 4", making that not possible. Thanks!

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Sawmill. You are wanting to attempt something far from easy. Probably cheaper to buy the 1x. Its probably a better grade of lumber...

 

[lutter94]

A wood planer?

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[ynned]

A wood planer?

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Pretty hard to get 2 pieces.

 

[colt zantop]

Yeah I thought table saw and flipping but your left with the middle section. :/

 

[hh76]

There are bandsaws that could do it, but I can't imagine it would be worth the time and effort.

 

[Kaizen]

nope not worth it any way you do it. besides when you cut it the 2x is going to twist and bow. that's why the 1x is so much more expensive. 3/4 ac plywood not good enough?

 

[maxpower_hd]

Another option is to find a local small lumber mill that might be able to mill what you need in rough cut. It's usually fairly cheap because the lumber is typically local and not graded. But for your use it really doesn't need to be.

 

[MoonRise]

That wouldn't be a "rip cut".

A "rip cut" on a 2x12 could turn it into a 2x10, or a 2x6, or a few 2x4s, or some 2x2s.

That is "resawing" a 2x12 into two 1x12.

Which wouldn't end up being actual 1x lumber (3/4") anyway, because of kerf loss from the cut.

To resaw a 2x12 into two almost 1x12s, you can either use:

- a pretty darn big bandsaw

- start the cut with a tablesaw, flipping the board and keeping the same reference face of the board against the rip fence (with appropriate auxiliary fences and feather boards and such to help hold and control this 2x12x10 while you try and resaw it) and probably have to take several passes for each edge before you can get to full cut depth anyway. All while hoping that the 2x doesn't warp or twist while doing this resawing operation. And than you go in and have to finish the cut with a handsaw anyway (because the tablesaw can't resaw the 11-1/4" width of the 2x12, leaving a 'web' left in the middle of the wood). And then clean up the saw unevenness with some hand planes. Or end up running it through a surface planer.

- go all Roy Underhill or Chris Schwarz on it and resaw it with a hand saw. Hand plane to the desired flatness and size and surface finish, unless going for the rough sawn look or you will just keep the rough sawn surface as the 'back side' of the boards.

Or skip the entire resaw method and turn a 2x12 into a 1x12 by running it through a surface planer until you get the wood thickness down to your desired 3/4" thick. The 'other' 3/4" of wood gets turned into sawdust and shavings. Which means LOTS of sawdust and shavings. Oh, and obviously you'd need a surface planer to begin with. Still, each 1x12 that you end up with (not accounting for any 'production' losses from warp and twist and cupping) would only cost $14 instead of $25. Not counting any time and effort on your part. And dealing with and disposing of all those planer shavings.

How much is your time and effort worth? Those 'expensive' 1x12 boards that have been planed and surfaced from the mill already to be consistent in size (hence the S4S designation) now don't really look all that 'expensive'.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Some people.... WTF

 

[Whitworth]

Complete waste of time, energy and money. You'll be at a net loss with wasted material; bowed and twisted stock, knots falling out, uneven thickness, etc. A 2 by is about 1 &3/8" thick. Divide by two and you get about 5/8" under ideal circumstances. Add jointing and planing if you want a smooth surface and consistent thickness, now you're at 1/2" or less.

A large bandsaw (2 HP or greater) would do it, but an enormous amount of work still.

 

[UpstateNY]

Some people.... WTF

Agreed, good lord.

 

[Zeke]

Agree that to make this even feasible you would need to start with dry lumber.

Silly thought: if 2X lumber is half the cost, why not just use the whole 2X?

$25 seems a bit high. You need to do some shopping. If you're pricing this at a home improvement store, that's a problem starting out. Lumber is sold by the board foot. A 1X of the same species and grade should be near the price of 2X from a BF point of view.

 

[Falcon67]

Old school lumber yard with a huge saw and yes, waste of time and effort. Wood is high $, just deal with it. Here a 2x12 runs about $1~$1.25 per foot, maybe a bit more if it's a #2 grade/not regular white pine.

At our old house, I spent a lot of time resawing 1x4s to 1/2" width or less for window trim on retrofits. Everything in an old house is almost a custom cut. Anyway, my 2 HP 10" table saw could only run one side without a rest unless the blade was new, carbide and thin. And those dull after several boards.

 

[ford33]

Not worth the effort.

The finished board cut on a bandsaw would be twisted afterwards and unless you have a steady support guide the cut would be uneven.

Buy plywood and cut it into 12" widths.

 

[ez-duzit]

Complete waste of time, energy and money...

This.

 

[archirelic]

If your time isn't worth anything, then embark upon this endeavor. However, if you value your time...just buy the 1x12 from the start.

 

[AnthonyJ124]

I'd call a few actual lumber yards or mills if you have one close and tell them what you want and how many feet of it.

I can't even fathom how awful handling and resawing a 2x10 would be as a DIY project.

Never mind the resawing, have you ever ripped a 10' board? That's a nightmare alone on a regular table saw, now flip the board on its side. I'm mad just thinking about the struggle.

Call a mill. With boards like that if you're pricing at lowes, the cost could easily double.

 

[Milton Shaw]

The price is for different grades of wood, one construction and the other is finish woodworking (trim.) Cutting the 2x12 in half is still going to be construction grade not what you want. Bite the bullet and get the 1x12 and even then you have to look through the pile or you might get construction grade rejected by someone else that has picked the pile already.

 

[MoonRise]

Wall lumber or another actual lumber yard.

Pine, 4/4 10" or wider is listed as $1.65/bd ft in 100 bd ft lots. Not including shipping IIRC.

http://www.walllumber.com/soft.asp

So a pine 4/4 x 12 x 10 is going to run you about $16.50 each or so, plus shipping. Close to your listed price of the 2x12s.

 

[Jess]

Is this for vertical siding? If it is, just go to local mill and they will saw what you need, in the species suitable for your area. I couldn't see resawing 2" lumber and getting the quality you could get having it done for the specific purpose.

 

[AnthonyJ124]

Now that I've thought about this more, will you be putting a batten over all the joints? Even quality lumber will end up with gaps over time. Can't think that would be ideal in a garage if you plan on any grinding or welding unless you have drywall that's already hung and you're going over it with the wood.

Why not a shiplap or tongue and groove run vertically? That all comes in 1" thickness already and gives you some leeway to hide the fasteners.

I'm sure you're already thinking about it, but you'll also need to run a handful of levels of horizontal studs between your existing vertical studs to hang any lumber vertical.

 

[BongRipper]

It will take ******* forever but this will work.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Why not a shiplap or tongue and groove...

Why not plywood?

 

[jives]

After you figure out how to do one board you will kick yourself on how much time and energy you wasted. Best bet? Find a local sawmill (if one is available) and have them provide surfaced on 3 sides or 1 side lumber. Kiln dried or it will warp excessively on your wall.

Think seriously about 1 x 8 shiplap.

 

[Mandres]

Dude, plywood.

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[ItsNemo]

I'd call a few actual lumber yards or mills if you have one close and tell them what you want and how many feet of it.

I can't even fathom how awful handling and resawing a 2x10 would be as a DIY project.

Never mind the resawing, have you ever ripped a 10' board? That's a nightmare alone on a regular table saw, now flip the board on its side. I'm mad just thinking about the struggle.

Call a mill. With boards like that if you're pricing at lowes, the cost could easily double.

What kind of crappy table saw are you using? I've done what's being talked about on 2x4's quite a few times on my table saw (A little Dewalt DWS745) and it's no big deal. It only does a 3 1/4" cut (and can do that depth in one pass) but a quick flip and through again works.

In case of the OP, if 2x12's are that much cheaper, I vote just use them as is...talk about nice sturdy walls.

 

[PugetDude]

Here is your answer:

2x12x10 = $14!

 

[pattenp]

That wouldn't be a "rip cut".

A "rip cut" on a 2x12 could turn it into a 2x10, or a 2x6, or a few 2x4s, or some 2x2s.

That is "resawing" a 2x12 into two 1x12.

But, resawing is done by making a rip cut.