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How to save money when building.

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
This is a start of a thread purely on cost control and timing whether it be new construction, alterations, major repairs of just plain upgrading. The idea is for all to add their ideas and tell anecdotes. We begin with this:

How do you save money when building?

Hint: not by hiring the cheapest subs or buying the cheapest materials. But wait, there’s more — and we'll get to cheap later.

Have a carefully prepared plan in place. Stick to the plan.

The goal for any job is to do it on time and within the budget. Things always seem to cost more than estimated and the way to limit time and cost overrun is to understand cost control as well as hitting the figure. This takes thorough advance planning.

I recently had a client that added to the rough electrical not once, but 3 times. The cost of the additions, which were minor in nature compared to the big picture, cost him almost as much as the initial bid. Don’t think for a minute that contractors do not lie in wait for changes as such. Most changes are done time and materials (which I like*), but there is no ambition to do the extra work as efficiently as the original. Another client changed paint colors in the middle of the work. That resulted in additional labor and time running the job past the completion date. When the client makes changes, the original completion date goes out the proverbial window. Not to mention the planned budget. *I’ll talk more about cost plus later.

Shopping well before a job will save money and time. Eliminate out of stock or delayed delivery circumstances. Keep shopping for the best price for what you want, not what you’ll accept. Shop long and shop smart. Many businesses that are successful are so because of their buying habits.

Another client didn’t order tile soon enough (it’s never too soon) and by the time the tile was delivered, the preferred installer was too booked up to do the job in a timely manner. Had to settle for another, not as good and higher in price. Cost went up unexpectedly.

One additional subject I will touch upon is duplication of services (if others don't get to that with an explanation). I recently advised someone getting ready to build to understand where one trade leaves off and the next begins. But what if 2 trades need a backhoe? No need for one to be leaving the job while another is in route. If there's a LOT of excavation needed during construction, you can consider renting a machine to stay on the job. Backhoes can lift trusses to a certain height. They all have a bucket for scooping and simple grading.

Weather can play a part in the completion on-time process but shouldn’t affect the cost. Carry insurance on the project. Damage should not be a cost.

That's just the start. What do you have to say? Theory is fine as are rules.

(I'm a contractor with 44 years of experience.)
 
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willymakeit

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Springfield Mo.
These rules apply no matter size.
I have completed several 30-50 million dollar projects and owners still aren’t sure what they want.
Somes budgets budgets are so big it doesn’t matter,
Most seem to be visual and make decisions after they see it.
Designers are just as bad.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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Canfield, Ohio
I look for materials on Craig’s list. I have saved a lot of money by keeping my eyes opened. Not afraid to dumpster dive, and of course I’m a do it yourselfer.
 

Greywarrior07

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Jul 9, 2017
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Southern Minnesota
Multiple quotes that you can compare apples to apples. Especially if your GCing it yourself, you can save a lot of money. But being in the construction industry it seams like a pretty simple thing to get multiple quotes, but a lot of people don’t. Or they get multiple quotes and they can’t be compared apples to apples, seams to happen a lot on here with concrete I’ve noticed.

I built my garage with 95% my labor, got quotes for almost everything and couldn’t justify the price of them knowing I could do just as good of job or better and paying and arm and a leg.
The only thing I paid to have someone do on mine was roof it and drywall it, which just happens to be the two things I hate doing...


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

MushCreek

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Upstate South Carolina
I saved the most money by DIY, but that isn't an option for everyone.

Shop carefully for everything. Big box stores aren't always the cheapest, and in some cases, they're stupid expensive. Smaller stuff can be found on-line. I saved a ton on electrical components, for example. CL is great if you have the time to go get it. I bought ten matching antique doors for $10 each.

Try to stick with standard designs that work without crazy engineering. That massive I-beam is gonna cost you.

Work with the land. If you have a sloping property, a walk-out basement might be cheaper and easier (and look better) than a zillion yards of fill.

Try to stick with a design and materials that local builders are familiar with. Teaching them a new technology can be expensive and result in poor results if they screw it up.

Think small (does NOT apply to garages and shops!). Do you really need 6000 square feet? A smaller house will cost less to build, less to HVAC, less taxes, and less to maintain. Use the money you save to build a bigger, better shop.

I could go on and on. I'll add more as I think of them.
 

Captain Spaulding

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Feb 13, 2017
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Southern Indiana
My number one tip for saving money is to ask your preferred contractors what you can do to save money without cutting corners. These folks do it every day and know where people are wasting money.

I built an RV garage and asked the builder if there was anything I could do to save some money or if he had any recommended changes from my plan. He did make some suggestions on dimensions that made the building 2ft wider (80sq-ft more) for just a couple of hundred extra. The biggest savings were for waiting on him and being ready to start with little warning. I live just up the road from him, and he told me if I was willing store the materials on site and to let him start "sometime before the end of the year with a call the night before" he could knock $1100 off the cost. Worked out great for both of us, since 7 weeks later he dug up a city sewer line in an unexpected place and had to delay a big job. My build paid his crew while that was sorted out.
 

Notgrownup

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Snow Hill NC
I bought products myself before I started building and told the contractor to knock the costs off the total, he was open to that. I was traveling and would stop at Lowe’s , Home Depot and other places and pick up fans, lights, sink. Etc..
I painted myself and I also ran my cable,, phone and speaker wires before they did drywall.
I did pick value products like doors, windows and flooring. I should’ve got better windows and doors but it helped me stay within budget and actually get better plumbing fixtures and a garage instead of carport..
Goodman instead of Trane saved me like 2 grand.
Planted my own bushes, finished my own laundry room.
Insulated my garage myself.
I’m not a tradesman, just DIY’er
 
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Falcon67

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Have a carefully prepared plan in place. Stick to the plan.

Yes - race car build, shop build, bath remodel - don't even lift a screwdriver until I'm clear on what-the-hell and a good picture of the end result. Like the shop I have - I spent about 3 weeks with graph paper at the kitchen table and used a bundle of grade sticks and 500' of string, along with "are you ever going to start on your shop?" before I hit the Go button. I learned a few things that I'd do different if there is a do-over, but I had a firm plan, layout, etc and stuck to it. That also helped with bid on materials. Showing up at a supplier with a folder full of drawings, floor plan, elevation renderings and a bill of material immediately sets you apart from everyone else.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
I saved some money by:

- renting a mini excavator and digging my own foundation trenches. Was $300 for the day and I doubt I could have touched that with any bid. I also cut and removed the sod, I think that was a $50 rental fee for the day.
- providing all labor except for concrete finishing of the floor.
- there I set everything up: level & compact stone, set forms, rebar on chairs & tied, vapor barrier, snapped lines. I estimated the volume (by measuring) and scheduled and ordered the concrete. So the concrete people I hired just showed up at the same time as the trucks and started placing and then finishing. It was a 1 day cash job for them and I feel like I saved over having them do the other preparatory projects.
- I measured my rough opening for the garage door down to 1/16" and went to the local door company's shop (small salesroom) with a sample of the vinyl siding to match. They ordered the door, I picked it up and installed it. Seemed to save ~$1000 over the bids I was getting to do the turnkey process of just write a check and have a finished door installed.
- the local roofing and siding place also had a machine to roll seamless gutters at their yard. I felt like I saved ~$500 over the bids I got to turnkey install them + 4 downspouts. I ended with one tradeoff which was a lap joint in the center of a 42ft span.

I'm sure that I blew all of the savings above on "better materials" but I feel like it was a good tradeoff long-term.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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West central Indiana
I saved big, or should say got top notch stuff for cheap **** price mainly on electrical stuff from eBay.

I purchased nearly all the receptacles on eBay. I bought hospital grade ones which are really big $$ but uber constructed for about 1.50$ each. You have to be patient and typically buy in full cases or even two cases to get the deals.

You have to know brands and check part numbers in catalogs before purchasing.

I bought a large (600+) pieces of 1/2" and 3/4" emt connectors of various sizes. All for maybe a 1/6th of retail. Bought a couple lots of left and right LB's. Most of the connectors I have used but have a few LB left for another project I have in the plans. Between savings here and carefully buying THHN wire on sale (found no good deals on eBay for it) I was able to do all my electrical in the new house and garage in emt for about the same cost as Romex (my labor for bending and installation)

Another big saver on eBay was hospital grade 5 ball bearing stainless hinges. They are 30-40$ a piece retail per hinge. Buying larger lots on eBay I paid ~10$ a hinge. Is insane how quiet and effortlessly a door closes on these and they won't rust though the nickle plating after some years of exposure. They have non removable hinges as well for out swing doors.
Warning, they close so easy your family may slam doors unintentionally for a while.
 

Jackfre

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N CA
Back in the 70's when I was in the P?H and Electrical contracting business in the Napa Valley I had all these clients who came to the valley to build their dream homes. A couple times, because I had a chance to get to know them before things kicked off I would say, "Okay, you have your architect and plans, your builder and bank." They would affirm this. I would then tell the guy to take his lovely wife on an around the world trip. They laughed and said for what is costing they can't afford that. I would tell them that if they follow my advice and take the trip and not come back until the place was ready to move into they will have had a wonderful trip and can come back and start the re-model if they want. Most importantly however, they would still be married and in the end would save money. Each of these people told me they should have listened to me. Change orders, disagreements, divorce cost a lot and really slow things down.
Plan your work. Work your plan!
 
OP
Z

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Back in the 70's when I was in the P?H and Electrical contracting business in the Napa Valley I had all these clients who came to the valley to build their dream homes. A couple times, because I had a chance to get to know them before things kicked off I would say, "Okay, you have your architect and plans, your builder and bank." They would affirm this. I would then tell the guy to take his lovely wife on an around the world trip. They laughed and said for what is costing they can't afford that. I would tell them that if they follow my advice and take the trip and not come back until the place was ready to move into they will have had a wonderful trip and can come back and start the re-model if they want. Most importantly however, they would still be married and in the end would save money. Each of these people told me they should have listened to me. Change orders, disagreements, divorce cost a lot and really slow things down.
Plan your work. Work your plan!
That's great!

P?H , what's that?
 
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RocketScott

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Jul 20, 2016
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Lexington, KY
Several years ago I had a client that wanted to build a garage. 24x24 IIRC

They told me they wanted T1-11 because they assumed it was the cheapest way to go

I priced it out for T1-11 as well as OSB sheeting and Hardi lap siding. Turned out to be cheaper to do the Hardi, even with the labor to install it.
 

toolmiser

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La Crosse, WI
I didn't save a bunch of money, but we installed all the wall insulation, all of the tear out (sheetrock etc), and all of the cleanup. I think the workers enjoyed that I would tell them at the end of the day that the cleanup was ours. And it was, the place was pretty much spotless each morning. Thing is that if you commit to these things they are yours.
 
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Zeke

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I didn't save a bunch of money, but we installed all the wall insulation, all of the tear out (sheetrock etc), and all of the cleanup. I think the workers enjoyed that I would tell them at the end of the day that the cleanup was ours. And it was, the place was pretty much spotless each morning. Thing is that if you commit to these things they are yours.

I agree that a clean site is a better place for many reasons — safety being a primary one — however, I find that clean up by the individual trades is never included with the bid. So, there's not much savings there unless you have to keep a labor on hand to do it. Large projects I've worked on had clean up labor and dumpsters as part of the general contractor's bid.

Something to think about when building a garage, barn or out building.
 

Homerr

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Mar 16, 2012
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Seattle, WA
In the high-end suburban residential market I work in there is a definite yearly escalation in 'need-to-have-for-resale' things that not everyone wants but thinks they need. I usually tell people to build just what they want for themselves and tell them that the next owner can add all those gotta-have items in.

Another area that is getting pushed beyond lately is floor joist spans - a dimension of 16' used to be large for a room. Now rooms frequently need to be 18', 20', 24'. Really just numbers that clients pull out of their asses largely based on ego. Well, it drives the structure cost up when that basement theater needs to be 24'x30' with no posts or beams hanging down. We're doing more and more floor trusses these days.

Every few years it also now seems that we have to add a foot to the plate height of a home. Ten years ago a 10' plate was top of the line, now it's more like 12' or more. Secondary bedrooms are pushing beyond 9' now, so that usually means the room X and Y dimensions have to grow to not make the room feel over-tall.

Make design decisions by talking with your designer, contractor, and/or engineer about where the practical limits of what they can do are within a budget. Too many times I've dealt with clients where their ego won't let this conversation happen, or happen in a real and meaningful way, and then when bids come in I hear the bitching about why does it cost so much.

One last hit at ego. There are some clients that can afford anything, really. Then those that think they can - they tend to want 'the best' of everything and go over budget in the end and are disappointed in the project (really themselves probably, but won't usually admit this). Sometimes 2nd, 3rd, or 9th best is still pretty good with some materials, appliances, cabinets.

I really appreciate clients who already know what they can afford and have backed out an amount for contingencies.

TLDR:
- build what you need, no more
- work within the means of structural materials
- bigger is more $, even for so-called 'cheap square footage' in many cases
- listen to experience
- the best will cost you
 
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K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
V.E. (Value Engineering)-

Since this is an open forum and the heart of conversation is "garages", there's not a lot of "VE" that can go into building a "garage"- but, as the ol' adage goes- "every penny counts"!
 

yeldogt

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Picking both builder and architect based on the project -- you don't hire a mid century guys to do a traditional farm house. Gut rehabs are the most problematic -- it's important to have someone who understands the project and makes decisions according to what the project require .. otherwise the project goes off the rails.

It's human nature to want the best price .. but, all too often people hire contractors not able to do the work that needs at the quality level required. It's happened to me ... becomes a mess.

Building is not a science -- stuff happens .. things change. Good contractors don't take advantage.
 

Falcon67

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Several years ago I had a client that wanted to build a garage. 24x24 IIRC

They told me they wanted T1-11 because they assumed it was the cheapest way to go

I priced it out for T1-11 as well as OSB sheeting and Hardi lap siding. Turned out to be cheaper to do the Hardi, even with the labor to install it.

Hardi should also qualify for a lower insurance rate - depending on the company.
 

bwringer

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Indianapolis
Much of what I do for a living is building websites.

These exact same principles apply, except that every vendor has a completely different concept of what various plain english words mean, so it's incredibly tough to compare apples to apples.

I guess it's somewhat the same for builders, but generally people can picture what a "sink" or a "door" looks like. But when someone is convinced they need a "portal", what the hell is that exactly?

What we end up doing a lot of times is showing clients a variety of the sites we've built, point out various features and discuss the tradeoffs, benefits, etc., and after some time we can develop a very accurate picture of what they actually want and need.

And then about 2/3 of the way through, the CEO will read an article and start demanding changes... same old problem builders have, I guess.

Same thing happens when a website is nearing the end of the build -- it suddenly becomes "real" to some types of people, then they start paying attention for the first time and agitating for changes...

As noted above, have a plan and work the plan. However, you can also save a lot of money and time by knowing when it pays to be flexible and change the plan.

Hire contractors you can trust, then trust them.
 

dutchgray

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Dorset. England.
We did a big residential construction job for a family that probably broke all the rules mentioned above, they probably spent double what they could have, we didn't mind, got 5 full years of work out of that job, all on day rate.
 

Falcon67

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Same thing happens when a website is nearing the end of the build -- it suddenly becomes "real" to some types of people, then they start paying attention for the first time and agitating for changes...

Real request - "We don't want it to be too webish."
 
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MushCreek

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Probably the biggest cost savings for us was simply moving to a cheaper area! We could not have afforded what we have if we hadn't moved to rural SC. From land costs to permits to contractors, it is much cheaper to build here. Our long-range plan was a place to retire, so relocation isn't for everyone, but it's something to consider.
 

FordTruckWench

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Don't be penny wise but pound foolish: Sure, you saved a bunch buying that entry door lock set on eBay. But you're losing a lot more when the job is stalled two weeks waiting to secure the structure before starting plumbing and electrical.
 

Firebrick43

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Hardi should also qualify for a lower insurance rate - depending on the company.

It lowers your insurance rate but increases the replacement cost. When I asked my insurance company it was basically a wash. My be in high risk wildfire areas it would make more of a difference.

Don't be penny wise but pound foolish: Sure, you saved a bunch buying that entry door lock set on eBay. But you're losing a lot more when the job is stalled two weeks waiting to secure the structure before starting plumbing and electrical.

That's why you buy the stuff weeks or even a month in advance. Many things, including the custom door the lockset goes in has to be special ordered in advance.
 

ITGuy1998

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Northern Alabama
Be willing to listen to advice and compromise, if needed.

When building our current house, one of my requirements was to have a garage just for me. It came with an attached 3 car garage. We originally wanted to do a carriage garage for my garage. The builder suggested I could go bigger and still come in cheaper if the additional garage shared a wall with the house instead. We ended up going this route, and I have no regrets.
 

Fixed

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Ontario, Canada
Very interesting thread. I'm a young guy with a dream shop in mind, but whenever I start to look into what'd it'd cost to build, I end up depressed!

So following this thread closely for future referencing, thanks.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Falcon67

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Very interesting thread. I'm a young guy with a dream shop in mind, but whenever I start to look into what'd it'd cost to build, I end up depressed!

So following this thread closely for future referencing, thanks.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I wanted a tunnel ram on my car when I was 18. I'm 62 and the tunnel ram should be on the car this winter. Patience young grasshopper, stay focused on the goal. :lol_hitti
 

Fixed

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I wanted a tunnel ram on my car when I was 18. I'm 62 and the tunnel ram should be on the car this winter. Patience young grasshopper, stay focused on the goal. [emoji38]_hitti
Yes sir, patience is the name of the game... I really can't complain though, I'm grateful to have the 1-car garage space that I have now.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

gunguy

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Currituck Co. NC
The better the plan, the more thorough the due diligence, research and attention to the details, the greater the chance the project will come in on time, and on budget.

I am always amazed when I see a thread here that begins with something like, "The concrete truck is coming tomorrow and I need to know if...." WTF! Seems like many of these questions should have been asked and answered waaaay before that point!

Spend a little money up front in the planning stage if you have to and it will save a ton in unexpected expenses and delays later. You may not be able to eliminate every nasty surprise, but you can certainly minimize them. That's why you set aside a certain percentage of the budget for such contingencies. Am I wrong? Am I over simplifying the process?

Jim
 

engineer2

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Chicago burbs
For DIY projects I learned not to buy the material until you actually need it. By that I mean stuff that is commonly available and rarely goes on sale, like lumber. Too far in advance and you have to store it, might move it again, and plans/priorities might change.

I also learned to try to move materials only once. Unload it, stack near where you are going to cut it and/or install it.

For one-time-use tools, CL is your friend.

The Habit for Humaity store in our area is a cheap source for elecrical fittings and just enough flooring to do a bathroom.
 
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