How to seal this concrete issue?

[D45]

Exterior wall in the attached garage (addition) seems to have pulled away from the concrete floor

Gaps are 3/8" to 5/8" in spots

The entire length of the outer wall.....about 45' long

Try to fill it in with concrete?

Buy alot of concrete caulk?

 

[RV77]

self leveling concrete seam/crack sealer and possibly some foam backer

 

[D45]

Does the foam backer rod just get stuffed into the crack...... and then the sealer on top?

 

[Stinger]

Yes, just stuff the backer in (below the top surface) and then cover it with the sealer. The backer just keeps from needing so much sealer, and keeps it from getting too thick (which causes it to bubble while drying).

 

[Richard Cranium]

Plus the foam backer also helps take up some of the expansion and contraction..

 

[nicksnothereman]

Exterior wall in the attached garage (addition) seems to have pulled away from the concrete floor

Gaps are 3/8" to 5/8" in spots

The entire length of the outer wall.....about 45' long


Try to fill it in with concrete?

Buy alot of concrete caulk?

You don't want that man. It'd be like 40-50 tubes of the ****.

I agree with "backer rod" and something "elastometric" patch wise. It'll look like **** though. I see the professional jobs all the time and they also look like ****. I guess it's a repair for utility not repair for cosmetic decision.

 

[Andamo]

How about using Oakum first and setting it below the surface level and then filling the balance of the gap with something that flexes ?

 

[ConCretin]

Backer rod and a decent caulk will work just fine. Backer rod does more than just take up space - it's purpose is to create a proper joint profile. You want the top and bottom of sealant to have a concave shape. This provides a large contact area with the joint sides to maximize adhesion and a thinner section in the middle so the material can stretch as the joint moves. The backer rod establishes the thickness of the caulk and creates the bottom shape, tooling takes care of the top.

Ask a simple question - get a windy answer.

 

[Andamo]

Wow, never saw or heard of backer rod. It looks like a much better solution.

 

[wssix99]

Exterior wall in the attached garage (addition) seems to have pulled away from the concrete floor

Great answers above. No need to worry about the addition. As concrete cures, it shrinks. So, its probably that your slab shrunk and pulled away from the wall. (The wall shouldn't be moving.)

 

[D45]

OK thanks for the info

I'll look into the backer rod and the caulk

 

[D45]

More pics.....I pulled a chunk of the current joint seam material and it feels like fiber

 

[D45]

Silkaflex seems like a good produce also.....I like that it is self leveling

How wide of gaps is it capable of filling though?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex...veling-Sealant-91065/202527281#specifications

 

[D45]

Sonneborn NP-1; $23 for a 4 pack

How much linear foot with each tube yield?


Sonneborn NP1 10.1 oz. Gun-Grade Polyurethane Sealants (4-Pack) Limestone-181250 at The Home Depot

Sonneborn NP 1 Polyurethane Sealant is a one-component high-performance gun-grade moisture-curing polyurethane sealant designed for a wide range of sealing and caulking applications in active exterior joints.

With 800% elongation, 350 psi tensile and +/- 35% joint movement capability, NP-1 handles most every exterior application up to 1-1/2" wide.

NP-1™ requires no mixing and typically bonds to many materials without a primer, including concrete and masonry.

NP1 dries with a smooth finish and is paintable.

 

[stage20]

i would use backer rod and sealant if you plan to keep the floor bare. anything else will get into the pours of the concrete even if you wipe it clean, you may end up with a stain from where you troweld or poured leveler/cement/etc into the gap.

 

[D45]

Silkaflex and 3/4" closed cell backer rod did the trick

 

[stage20]

looks good from my house