At the Compressor you will need a Vibration Isolation Hose. I use this type from McMaster Carr.
https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-isolation-hose/thread-type~npt/extreme-temperature-air-and-steam-hose-with-male-threaded-fittings/
You can thread this into the Compressor and then into the hard line on the wall. You will need to solder in a Union so you can connect/disconnect from the Air System.
I only use Copper, Brass and Stainless never Galvanized Pipe when doing any sort of Air System Plumbing. This keeps contamination down due to rust.
A hose going from the System to the Hose Reel should be good enough but I would suggest a premade Hose Assembly with Quick Disconnects. I stay away from Hose Barbs where ever possible. They do come loose over time. Tekton has premade Hoses as short as 36 inches. Others are available as well. I use Good Year if I can find them.
I came home after a long weekend to find my Air Compressor running wide open because a Hose came off the Barb. My fault for leaving the compressor on but I have no idea how long it had ben running.
Put Drip Legs on your system so you can drain the moisture from your lines. Always go up off the main before going down so the moisture stays in the main leg and can be drained. Never coil Hoses going from the System to a piece of equipment. This leads to moisture developing in the low spots in the Hose...but then think about a Hose Reel...it is a coil...
Vibration Isolation Hose:
Filters and Regulator (No Lubricator):
Drip leg on the left, Air Drop on the right (note it goes up before going down):
Drip leg on the left, Air Drop on the right:
