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How to set up new compressor

gary300

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Hello all. I am brand new to this forum and from what I have read here so far looks like a lot of very knowledgeable people.

Monday I am getting delivered (from Home Depot) a Husky VT6315 26 Gallon Verticle oil lubed compressor for occational use in my home garage. I also ordered the CH ultimate home air tool kit and a 50' 3/8 inch rubber hose.

My question is what else should I get in the way of filters, dryers etc? I don't have a spray gun yet but I eventually want to get one to use with the oil lubricated air tools.

:headscrat
 
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Kev442

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Welcome Gary. If you are not painting or sand blasting, there is really no need for a dryer. A few drops of oil in the inlets of your tools not only keeps them moving freely, but avoids the corrosion any moisture would cause. The tank on your compressor will collect most of your moisture, so drain it after use. The most important thing is to set the regulator on your compressor to match the rating on each tool, 90 PSI is the most common.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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If you plan on using a spray gun, do not use an oiler on the system. When you do get the sprayer, buy another hose to use with the sprayer only. Oil will ruin a paint job and has a tendency to get everywhere in an airline system. Once you get a sprayer, I would get a filter to use with it.

What is the CFM of your compressor? You might need to pay close attention to the CFM requirements of the spray guns you are looking at to find one that will work with your compressor as some of the HVLP guns take a LOT of air to run them.

Other than that, get some air tools and get to work!!!!
 

rodnok1

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I second not using an oiler, a few drops when you use one and that's that. It mucks up sand blasters, paint guns, plus I don't like the **** spraying on me when the system is under pressure at a quick release.
 
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gary300

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Thanks for replies. One other question though. Should I get a filter or perhaps a filter/regulator?
 

ZRX61

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The first order of business should be removing the drain it comes with & swapping it out for a 90deg street elbow & a ball valve.. maybe a bib between the two for easier reach.
 

Torque1st

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I use a short swivel hose whip for my air tools with an inline oiler. HF has a hose for $7 and a lubricator for $5-7 from HF and other locations. This setup keeps my tools lubricated without any mess.

A lubricator will only keep the oil in suspension for a short distance. The oil drops out of suspension and coats the inside of the hose or pipes making a real mess. "Central lubricators" are for use on an individual machine in a factory environment.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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gary,

I think that compressor has outlets that are regulated. If not, I would add a regulator/filter with a quick connect that attaches at the outlet. That will make it easy to use and drain.
 
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BoostedOne

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I never use inline oilers on my own stuff. I would like to say I oil them before each use, but honestly I rarely remember to buy oil and just use them. I use the heck out of my tools I, on averge oil them once every 10-20 times. I rarely have problems.Maybe Im lucky, maybe its because the tools i use regularly are name brand, non chinese tools..
The company I work for uses alot of 3/4 to 1.5" impacts and each one has its own whip with an oiler, but thats because they can get used sometimes for 10 hours out of a 12 hour shift, and the crews wont bother to oil them so they would wear out real quick. But for home use.. I dont bother.

On the subject of dryers, I do use those especially if I am spraying. Im a fan of the cannister types that take a roll of toilet paper. I think you can get them at Harbor Junk now. Yes, while the tank will collect a major amount of the moisture, if you are running the tools hard they will be spitting water without a dryer shortly especially if you live in a humid climate. Even with a dryer they will get moisture in them, but you do want to decrease it as much as possbile.
 

jnt412

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I was planning on purchasing the same compressor a few weeks ago. Decided to go with the 60 gal. for $20 more at $399.99. Lowes did a price match and took an additional 10% off their CH 60gal VT6275 I just bought last week for $360. If portability isn't a concern and you have the room, I would opt for a 60gal..

Also, do you have a dedicated 15amp circuit for this compressor?..
 
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gary300

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I am planning a few major backyard projects, so I want the portability. Just installed a dedicated 20A 120V for the compressor.
 

peterj

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Get a TIP tool catalog or maybe even on their web-site and look at their diagrams. They are well laid out and easy to follow.
 

BoostedOne

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Depending on what you do, you may avoid the "big tank" attraction...
When I was shopping for a compressor about 9 years ago, I was looking for something to run impacts, spray guns, DA sanders, etc.. Various car stuff. Most of the 60 gallon setups are between 5hp and 7hp.

I stumbled apon a 5hp unit that had only a 20 or 25 gallon tank and thought about it. I figured why the heck do I want a 60 gallon tank if I can get the same compressor head on a 25? I bought the 25 gallon unit and couldnt be happier. It pumps up in a fraction of the time. Takes up alot less space. Yeah, when you use it the compressor kicks on sooner than it would with a large tank, but when you are sanding a panel, a 60 gallon kicks on only a few seconds later, but the small tank builds pressure faster.
Seems like when I used to use my dads compressor which was a 60 gallon of the same specs, I spent alot of time working in the 60-75psi range because once the compressor kicked on, unless I totally stopped what i was doing for a few minutes the compressor never built up pressure. it could maintain it, but not build any because I would only stop for 10-20 seconds here and there. With the small tank, that 10-20 seconds goes a long way to pressurizing the tank, and I find myself working with my compressor in the 80-90 psi range ALOT.

Yeah, they make 60 and 80 gallon compressors with two stage heads and all that, but I dont think thats what were talkin about here.
 
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gary300

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Well, they delivered the compressor today instead of Monday. Good thing I happened to be home, since the forwarder never bothered to call. One of the first things I noticed is how close the drain valve is to the ground. I have to put both hands under the unit and use one finger from each hand to open the petcock. So, the first thing I am going to do is take the suggestion from ZRX61 and put in a 90 degree elbow, six inch nib or so and a ball valve. Why did they design the drain to be so close to the ground when it is supposed to be a frequently used item?

:wtf:
 
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