How To Start Tile On Wall - What's Your Preference?

[LonestarLando]

Howdy Y'all,

So I'm nearing the end of my guest bathroom remodel and looking to start the tub/shower tile. After some searching and video watchin' I've seen people start the tile with 2 different methods:

1. Ledger Board - Screwing a strip of straight-and-level wood so that the first full-tile row sits on top of it to support the weight. Then, remove after the thinset is cured, fill holes and then do the bottom row.

This method seems tried and true and the way to do it if you don't have a laser setup. However, putting more holes in your backer-board seems to be something that is best avoided.

2. Laser Level/Bottom Row First - Alternatively, I've seen where you put up a laser level and set the bottom row that sits on the tub. After the thinset is cured, you then use that bottom row as your support and move up the rest of the wall.

This method seems to be more common since laser setups have become more available.

From your experience, what's your preference/experience? (btw....I'm planning to do a stacked 8x24 ceramic tile with a vertical glass mosaic. Using Ardex X77 thinset)

 

[brownbagg]

so if your doing a shower do you lay floor first or **** the floor tile to wall tile

 

[LonestarLando]

From my understanding....if it's a full shower, you always do the pan and floor first and then the wall tile goes over that.

In my case this is a tub shower and I have installed Wedi backer board. I'm leaning towards putting up the bottom row since it will be alot of scribe cuts and shimming to get it level (will use laser) and then move upward after that cures.

The real reason for my question is because of all the searching I did, I haven't really found anyone talking about installing the bottom, let that set/cure and then build up from there.

 

[PCustoms]

Why isn't your tub level to act as the ledger?

 

[The Cobbler]

I've always just worked off pencil lines . I have precut some of the first row to get started , as well as laid the second row & filled in the first row.

 

[LonestarLando]

Why isn't your tub level to act as the ledger?

The tub was set level when installed but the ledge of the tub dips in the center along the rail. So the center of the rail is about 1/8" lower than the corners. This is by design so the water from the shower runs back into the tub and doesn't sit stagnant.

 

[PCustoms]

The tub was set level when installed but the ledge of the tub dips in the center along the rail. So the center of the rail is about 1/8" lower than the corners. This is by design so the water from the shower runs back into the tub and doesn't sit stagnant.

Got it.

Cat you put a ledger on the and shim the low spot? Wouldn't need to screw through the backer....

 

[Keep]

Use a level, laser level etc, you want to set the bottom first. 1/8 of an inch is nothing and your chalking will cover that up.

 

[bucolic]

Ledger board is the way to go and then cut the bottom row to fit. It would be very very rare that that first row is perfectly level and then when you get to the top you are way off. Do the tried and true method. Use the laser level as you go to make sure rows are level.

Start of shower.




In Progress using laser level to keep everything in line.




Tub surround being tiled. The better half wanted retro pink.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ wow, I had a bunch of those tiles in 4x4, tossed them several years ago. shoulda known they'd come back into style!

 

[Bruce 993 SEA]

I've done about 10 tub and shower surrounds in tile.

I always use the tub or shower pan as I set it level. Period.

Cement board is set to top of flange. Tile starts 1/8 (only one had a 1/16 grout line) off of the ledge with spacers. I use 12 x 12 tiles or 12 x 24 tiles...never have done retro 4 x 4 tiles.

I do not let the bottom row set...I just stack them up. Same thing with small tiles on backsplashes. I just stack them up...no need to let the first row set overnight.

This:

Why isn't your tub level to act as the ledger?

This is sounding more complicated than it should be...

 

[flat350]

When I did mine I did the floor first and then started with the second row of wall tile. The premade base had pitch built into it and by doing the first row last I made any cuts with a slight horizontal angle at the floor and wall meeting area. When you look at it your eyes are never drawn to the floor they look up higher

 

[bucolic]

I've done about 10 tub and shower surrounds in tile.

I always use the tub or shower pan as I set it level. Period.

Cement board is set to top of flange. Tile starts 1/8 (only one had a 1/16 grout line) off of the ledge with spacers. I use 12 x 12 tiles or 12 x 24 tiles...never have done retro 4 x 4 tiles.

I do not let the bottom row set...I just stack them up. Same thing with small tiles on backsplashes. I just stack them up...no need to let the first row set overnight.

This:



This is sounding more complicated than it should be...

This would probably work in most cases but in my case on the one bathroom, it would have been much more difficult. I needed to end up at the top without having to make any cuts due to the black trim and border.

I needed a full black 3x6 tile, a full 4x4 tile, and the black pencil trim below. As you can see in my picture the bottom row by the tub is less than a full tile and that tub though perfectly level when my level was placed on it was not perfect the entire length and had small bows in it so not all the tiles were cut the same.

I am sure a pro could have figured this out without the ledger board and that there was an easier way to do it than I did but this was my very first time tiling anything and it came out about dead on following the ledger board technique. I guess I just feel that though the ledger board may not be needed that using it really only adds a small step and in my case, I don't think I could have been that close at the top without it due to the flaws in the tub that really are not visible to the eye. Of course, if the top of your ledger board is not perfectly square you could end up with the same issue.

 

[Angelfire]

I set the floor/pan first (in a shower), then use a ledger board for the walls. Come back later and do the bottom row of tiles cut to perfectly sit over the floor tiles. There are many ways to do this and no way is "wrong", I just found the ledger really helps to get a good bottom row of wall tile.
Cheers.

 

[Firstram]

A pro taught me to lay out for the finish and use a ledger to start off with. Nice work!

 

[LonestarLando]

Thanks y'all. Looks like a pretty even mix of answers. Since this is my first shot at shower tile, I think I'm going to use the ledger board and use the laser as I go.

 

[csp]

Use the tub as a ledger with a straight, level line for where the top of that first row of tiles should land. Shim as necessary to get them to line up.

There's no need to put holes in your backer. Silicon wedge tile shims make this easy.