How to store logs for later use?

[NC357]

Last year I bought some acreage and the winter storms have taken a handful of really big hardwood trees down. Eventually, I would like to get my own bandsaw based sawmill and see what kind of lumber I can make from these and other trees I need to cut down.

Before the trees that fell just start to rot, what do I need to do to preserve them and start to dry them out? I'll cut them into probably 10' sections to make it easier to handle. Should I just leave them out in the weather? Should I cover them? Leave all the bark on?

I'm mainly wondering what the best way is to start to dry them without getting a bunch of cracking and warping in my lumber?

 

[four.cycle]

I haven't attempted to store "logs", but sealing the end cuts will help to prevent splitting and checking. I just used candle wax, but that was on some small diameter stuff that I used for a project.

 

[matt_i]

Probably worth more research as there are entire communities of people who mess around with this. You might be able to hire someone to band-mill your timber for you if you didn't want to make the investment right now.

But, in a general direction, I'd try to keep the wood dry and off the ground. There are products like Anchorseal for slowing evaporation out of the end grain, other people claim multi coats of latex paint works too.

 

[A_Pmech]

Logs for dimensional lumber cannot be allowed to dry before processing. In lumber mills, they are kept wet with water sprays. The reason for this is that as the log dries, the outer growth rings shrink over the inner wet wood and crack. A dry log will yield lumber that is severely checked.

 

[NC357]

Logs for dimensional lumber cannot be allowed to dry before processing. In lumber mills, they are kept wet with water sprays. The reason for this is that as the log dries, the outer growth rings shrink over the inner wet wood and crack. A dry log will yield lumber that is severely checked.

Is it possible to dry a log CORRECTLY so that it does not crack? Like sealing the ends with something? I know commercial outfits keep the logs wet but they also don't have time to dry them all.

I also have a creek with lots of cold clear running water. Should I just store the logs in there?

 

[A_Pmech]

Unfortunately, not really. To prevent structural failure of the log, the circumferential rings must be severed.

Lumber is sawn wet, then dried. This minimizes checking.

 

[jimgood]

I'll bet you can find a local person with a portable mill that would be willing to mill the logs and split the yield with you.

 

[flat tire]

unless you need the trees for lumber for a project, there might be more money in firewood
buying a log splitter is a lot cheaper than a saw mill

 

[rlitman]

unless you need the trees for lumber for a project, there might be more money in firewood
buying a log splitter is a lot cheaper than a saw mill

Some woods split better than others. In any case, if you're going to make them into firewood, cutting into rounds will make handling easiest.

 

[bczygan]

What species and sizes?

Get them milled and sticker and cover them. Times a wasting.

 

[NC357]

I'd really like to turn them into posts/beams and shop siding if I cut down enough trees. They are mostly old growth hardwoods, so it should make some pretty nice lumber. Seems like a shame to burn that, and I just think it's cool to have a shop made out of lumber from your own land.

For now I just want to preserve the trees that have naturally fallen as best as possible rather than letting them rot or turning them into firewood. Should I throw them in the creek and keep them submerged?

 

[jimreed2160]

The value of these logs is questionable because the trees were culled by a storm. A violent storm takes down lots of trees. A minor storm often culls old and weak trees. Your trees may have internal defects that will severely minimize your harvest. In addition, the logs started drying and cracking right after they fell. As they stay on the ground these defects will increase and reduce your harvest.

You could submerge them in a pond to keep them wet until cutting. But that will take a lot of effort. You could use agricultural sprayers as has been suggested but that would be expensive.

I realize that your dream is to harvest some nice hardwood lumber from your new place but I think your chances here are slim with these particular dead trees. But everyone has to start somewhere. At least these trees would provide you good practice while you learn how to use your new mill. Good luck.

 

[NC357]

A minor storm often culls old and weak trees. Your trees may have internal defects that will severely minimize your harvest.

Most of the trees that fell are along the banks of the creek, during raging conditions along with wind it undercut the banks and knocked some trees over. I've already cut the root ball off a couple and they are solid.

I will also eventually need to remove some trees with nothing wrong for a building site, and I want to make use of that wood as well.

 

[bczygan]

Dam the creek and submerge them. How do you keep them from floating?

 

[Kaizen]

whoa on the creek. poor guy will have the epa out there fining him.
op you have not said the diameter or specific wood. if its less the 2 feet I wouldn't bother.
just stack them and paint the ends to stop drying.
I second the suggestion of a local sawyer. imo their prices are reasonable and he'll be able to tell you if they can be used for posts or such. you know you're going to have to dry them for about a year average for 1inch material right?

 

[Jeepster04]

Logs for dimensional lumber cannot be allowed to dry before processing. In lumber mills, they are kept wet with water sprays. The reason for this is that as the log dries, the outer growth rings shrink over the inner wet wood and crack. A dry log will yield lumber that is severely checked.

Seems a local lumber yard CONSTANTLY has water spraying on their logs. Its several LARGE sprayers also. Ive looked on an aerial map just to see if they have a large pond. They have a pond but it sure doesnt seem large enough to supply the water they use. Cant imagine turning a profit using city water. They even water when its raining... Wild...

 

[6PTsocket]

In response to your exact question I searched for "coating to prevent wood from checking" and got many hits on sites for saw mill users and ads for products. The name Anchorseal popped up a lot. There are a lot of people involved with milling wood that are discussing this problem on other threads. Many seem to have a lot of experience.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[TractorJeff]

Take those logs, cut them 6 inches longer than your finished dimension (10'), hire the local bandsaw mill guy to cut them for you. Don't drop the investment into a mill yourself as it never pays back. I personally raise them 18 " off the ground and seal the ends with beeswax and try not to hold them for more than 6 months before the local bandsaw guy cuts them for me.

 

[Radix2]

Take those logs, cut them 6 inches longer than your finished dimension (10'), hire the local bandsaw mill guy to cut them for you. Don't drop the investment into a mill yourself as it never pays back. I personally raise them 18 " off the ground and seal the ends with beeswax and try not to hold them for more than 6 months before the local bandsaw guy cuts them for me.

+1

Put your effort into getting them sawn now instead of a bunch of work to maybe get them to stay wet - and under the wrong wet conditions they could rot as well in the time period you are looking for.

 

[Radix2]

Any Amish in your area? Around here they have mills and are always up for a job.

A local guy had a similar storm fall and they came in with horses and cleaned all the good logs out without ruining the landscape trying to get in with tractors or loaders.

 

[73RR]

+1

Put your effort into getting them sawn now instead of a bunch of work to maybe get them to stay wet - and under the wrong wet conditions they could rot as well in the time period you are looking for.

+2
Cut them up into the longest pieces you can.

 

[jimreed2160]

In response to your exact question I searched for "coating to prevent wood from checking" and got many hits on sites for saw mill users and ads for products. The name Anchorseal popped up a lot. There are a lot of people involved with milling wood that are discussing this problem on other threads. Many seem to have a lot of experience.

That's the problem with Mr. Google--he is not a logger. The products you are bombed with are probably used by saw mills for coating the ends of FINISHED lumber. After wood is cut, it begins to lose moisture. Natural wicking means that moisture moves quicker from ends and that causes end checks. Applying almost any paint product to the cut ends will slow down wicking and reduce the amount of lost yield.

 

[SteveCh]

Last year I bought some acreage and the winter storms have taken a handful of really big hardwood trees down. Eventually, I would like to get my own bandsaw based sawmill and see what kind of lumber I can make from these and other trees I need to cut down.

Before the trees that fell just start to rot, what do I need to do to preserve them and start to dry them out? I'll cut them into probably 10' sections to make it easier to handle. Should I just leave them out in the weather? Should I cover them? Leave all the bark on?

I'm mainly wondering what the best way is to start to dry them without getting a bunch of cracking and warping in my lumber?

I assume you are in Texas, and it makes a good difference where you try to do this. My brother in law in east Texas had a bunch of large, beautiful cedars and some oaks and tried to do this, store logs for a year in one case and two in another.

He lost most of his wood to termites, even though he had the logs atop cinder blocks stocked two high. Here in Colorado, I've stored logs for five or six years with no noticeable problem. However, it is very low humidity so no fungus and I haven't yet seen termites in my area in forty years. So, it depends.

 

[rburke65]

I would not think it would behove you to buy a mill. If you can get the logs to a sawyer, this will be to your greater advantage.

 

[kbs2244]

I second the idea of getting them sawn to size and the drying.
You should seal the ends while drying if milled or not.

 

[lakeroadster]

The Waltons ran a sawmill... they didn't seem to rich.. did they?

I agree with the previous posts. If you want to use the trees for lumber, get a sawyer out to look at them to tell you if they are worth the hassle.

My family had a "Frick" sawmill when I was a teenager. A real deal 5 foot diameter blade with replaceable teeth, motorized carriage, overhead crane, diesel Minneapolis Moline powered.

Logging was the hardest part... back breaking on both man and machine.

Dad sold it after all the "free help" moved out and then bought a Norwood band saw mill.

Lots of work, considerable investment. It was educational, but in no way profitable.

The most money Dad made was during the "woodstove boom of the 70's". People paid top dollar for slabwood to burn in their horribly inefficient home made wood stoves.

 

[justanengineer]

We always simply piled them in the yard but to be fair my home area is fairly wet/rainy aside from a month or so in summer, during which we simply hosed them down once a week. We also usually cut them within 2-3 months of logging.

Regarding mill costs and payback, that all depends on what you buy and how you run it. You wont get rich cutting someone else's wood for cash but if you can get a good buy on a used mill and put in some effort you'll make money. My grandfather became fairly wealthy running his mill but he also worked hard running it and the woods crew professionally, specializing in custom cutting large beams and higher end lumber starting long before box stores became common.

 

[NC357]

Lots of work, considerable investment. It was educational, but in no way profitable.

Who said anything about profit? You could probably say the same for any question somebody asks here. "It would be easier to just hire a guy to do it". No need to buy any tools. Never would need something like a lift, or an air compressor.

Not everything is about profit. I love how when you ask a question everybody else thinks they can come tell you to do something else instead. I was never asking for any advice about whether to get a sawmill or not. That's not up to you to decide and not everything is about profit. I have not posted enough information for you to decide whether it's a good idea or not for me.

As for bringing somebody in now, no, it would not be worth the effort for 5 or so trees and I'm not even sure what kind of lumber I want yet. Like I said, just trying to save the trees from rotting into garbage on the ground.

you know you're going to have to dry them for about a year average for 1inch material right?

So those 2x4s I see at Home Depot for sale basically dripping wet have been drying for almost 2 years??

 

[NC357]

I assume you are in Texas

Where in the world would you get that idea?

 

[UpstateNY]

Where in the world would you get that idea?

Why don't you put your location so the location assumptions will cease ? Easier than berating him for asking.

As for the wood, cut it into round pieces for eventual splitting and burning.

 

[sberry]

I know 3 guys with mills, after they get them they figure how much work it is, can't remember last time one of them cut a board.

 

[Kaizen]

So those 2x4s I see at Home Depot for sale basically dripping wet have been drying for almost 2 years??

You have some attitude for a guy that don't know diddly. Those are kiln dried. You going to buy a kiln now? no. so you would have to air dry them which is average about a year for 4/4 depending on species.
Unless you're talking about wet pt which is a completely unrelated thing.
Everyone above has given good information. unless you have actually used a mill you just can't understand what kind of work it is. you got a lot of opinions because your original question leads to how and when they are going to be milled.
I am changing my earlier suggestion. take this wood that you have no idea what it is and make firewood. it. then go get a book on trees to figure out what you are talking about. you can even sit around the fire reading your book.

 

[Tikijim]

Well the first thing you need to do is get the logs up off the ground. Use Anchorseal on the ends of your logs. Then go to The Forestry Forum and learn more what to do from there. There all kinds of knowlegable folks there that will help you out.

 

[G-ManBart]

Who said anything about profit? You could probably say the same for any question somebody asks here. "It would be easier to just hire a guy to do it". No need to buy any tools. Never would need something like a lift, or an air compressor.

Not everything is about profit. I love how when you ask a question everybody else thinks they can come tell you to do something else instead. I was never asking for any advice about whether to get a sawmill or not. That's not up to you to decide and not everything is about profit. I have not posted enough information for you to decide whether it's a good idea or not for me.

As for bringing somebody in now, no, it would not be worth the effort for 5 or so trees and I'm not even sure what kind of lumber I want yet. Like I said, just trying to save the trees from rotting into garbage on the ground.


So those 2x4s I see at Home Depot for sale basically dripping wet have been drying for almost 2 years??

Holy moly dude....you may not realize it, but your posts are coming across with a pretty unpleasant attitude. That's a bad way to start for someone just joining.

Folks here are trying to be helpful and you have to realize they won't always know exactly what you're asking since the printed word isn't perfect.

As you said, you haven't posted enough information for anybody to know exactly the right answer.

One thing people seem to forget, or don't know, about forums is that you can't dictate the scope of the answers you'll receive. Some will go off on tangents, or address things you aren't interested in. The only reasonable thing for you to do is ignore them, or clarify your position so folks understand.

Just to show it's not all negative, I'm reading this thread because I've got a lot of trees down and have only been collecting them for firewood, but have considered setting some aside for lumber, and even toyed with the idea of a mill. My neighbor just finished building a 36' long wooden boat from trees we took down mostly on my property, so the raw materials are available and it's not exactly a crazy concept to me.

 

[jake00]

I've got a woodmizer, Generally yes, cut the logs sooner than later, but I have a customer that had me cut some decent sized (28" diameter) white oak logs for him that were cut down 10 years ago. Much of the log was still very "green" 40+% MC. Sure we found some defects, but with the logs sitting around for a decade, the guy didn't care much about max yield .

 

[James-W]

Around here we have people who have portable band-saw sawmills. They will come to where you have the logs and saw them for you. They charge by the hour, not sure what their hourly rate is, but they can cut quite a few boards in an hour. Check around and try to get someone right away if you can. Usually in the Winter months they aren't real busy and if you give them a call they may be able to get working on your logs in just a day or two.

Once cut you can have the boards kiln dried, or you can air dry them if you have a place to do it.

 

[sberry]

some logs

 

[finn]

I have my logs sawn into boards and kiln dried by a local retired high school shop teacher. I've done cedar, birch, and one large spruce.

There are also guys who advertise portable sawmill services, who will bring their rig to your site.

I've observed that there is often used equipment for sale in the area too, but it's been enough work for me just felling, delimbing, cutting to length, skidding, loading, hauling, and unloading to put all ideas of buying a sawmill to rest.

What I've found is that blow downs usually have core rot and are suitable only for firewood.

Right now I have about eight 100" birch logs at the mill waiting for spring when he reopens the mill. The logs will be milled and kiln dried, then brought to a millwork place to be finished into tongue and groove flooring.

I like to have the logs milled within a few months of cutting, depending on what season they are cut.

Hot climates would reduce that time, I presume, unless remedial steps like regular sprinkling are taken.

 

[lakeroadster]

NC357,

In response to your my advice was based on being around and working in / with sawmills.

Profittable means a return on your investment. Most of us at least hope for that when we buy tools.

Let's try a new approach that is more in tune to you and your responses above..

Hey new guy... leave your smart *** attitude at the door. People here are trying to help you and answer your question based on their experience,

Also, attributing quotes to people who never said them will place you into “The Douche Hall Of Fame”

Kaizen, not lakeroadster, stated the following:

you know you're going to have to dry them for about a year average for 1inch material right?

 

[sublime68charger]

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=forum#c2

is a great source for info.

for my off hip get them stacked up off the ground. if you want 10' usable board cut the logs at 12' then you can cut off 1' each end before you run them through the mill.

How long are you gonna have them rough cut before running them through the mill?

also your location of these logs will help in response?

good luck