How to sweat copper pipes without getting "drips"
- Thread starter bmwpower
- Start date
DIGGER_DAVE
Well-known member
bmwpower said:
LOTS of practice!!
(don't mean to be "glib"; but it's an "art!" )
DIGGER_DAVE said:
I figured it was technique. But are there any tips for getting the joints to look this way?
Certain kind of solder?
Certain type of gas?
How long do you heat the joint up?
Where to place the solder?
What else to use?
etc
etc
Make sense?
I was a plumber apprentice for three years and it can be done with lots of practice but the easiest way is to get a pair of wells lamont or jersey gloves. After you apply solder to the joint just wipe the joint with the gloves. Perfect looking joint every time.
thefairlaneman
Banned
use connectors that already have the correct amount of solder in them
kartracer55
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2005
- Messages
- 5,317
wipe them with a slighty damp rag right after. My sweat's look like **** but my dads are awesome
Jim
Jim
The time you have to wipe the joint just depends on how hot you get it. I prefer to just get it as hot as needed to pull the solder into the joint. You can always reheat the joint if it cools before you get the excess wiped away.
PAToyota
Well-known member
Heat from below and touch at the top point of the joint - when it is hot enough the solder will flow around the joint, start pulling back on the heat, and then pull back on the solder as it almost completes the joint. That way it will be starting to cool and won't have too much solder in the joint to drip. Hopefully that is a good enough explanation for you to try it - then it is just a matter of getting the hang of it.
Itzkwik
Well-known member
It also helps to make up as many of your connections on the bench (or floor, etc.) before you put the pipe up on the wall. Easier to get to and keeps those ugly burn marks off your walls.
Satatic
Well-known member
Hmmm I never thought nothing of it. Just heat up the center of the fitting untill it ***** the solder in and stop when its done.
I've been around the plumbing world since I was born.
There is already some good advice in this post. I personally would not use a wet rag to even out the solder...cool water on a fresh hot joint can cause cracking of the solder bond from cooling it too rapidly. I always wait a bit if I am going to use a wet rag to cool off an area.
Don't try to apply the solder until the joint has been heated evenly, then do as the above poster said and hold the heat at one side and the solder at the other and it will flow right in. Make sure you have applied flux to the parts before soldering. And, when the joint is still hot, swap the joint with a flux-covered acid brush. This will eliminate any globs.
There is already some good advice in this post. I personally would not use a wet rag to even out the solder...cool water on a fresh hot joint can cause cracking of the solder bond from cooling it too rapidly. I always wait a bit if I am going to use a wet rag to cool off an area.
Don't try to apply the solder until the joint has been heated evenly, then do as the above poster said and hold the heat at one side and the solder at the other and it will flow right in. Make sure you have applied flux to the parts before soldering. And, when the joint is still hot, swap the joint with a flux-covered acid brush. This will eliminate any globs.
TNToy
Well-known member
Good tips. The most important one being that the solder will flow toward the applied heat, even if that's "uphill".
Your brain wants to heat the spot where the solder will be introduced. Ignore it. Heat the joint from the far side, and when the whole joint is hot enough, you'll be able to add solder that will wick deep into the joint instead of puddling around the seam. In other words, you heat the area evenly and keep the hot spot away from the actual visible seam where you'll add the solder.
The 'wipe with a leather work glove' trick works too. I haven't used a wet rag because I didn't want to cool the joint too fast, but I've been guilty of the work-glove trick before.
Remember, a little bit too hot is much better than a little bit too cold. Cold joints are bad.
Your brain wants to heat the spot where the solder will be introduced. Ignore it. Heat the joint from the far side, and when the whole joint is hot enough, you'll be able to add solder that will wick deep into the joint instead of puddling around the seam. In other words, you heat the area evenly and keep the hot spot away from the actual visible seam where you'll add the solder.
The 'wipe with a leather work glove' trick works too. I haven't used a wet rag because I didn't want to cool the joint too fast, but I've been guilty of the work-glove trick before.
Remember, a little bit too hot is much better than a little bit too cold. Cold joints are bad.
Ryan Wilke
Well-known member
Wiping the hot joint with a dry rag is the ticket, to prevent cooling the joint too fast. I prefer a heavy, 100% cotton terry-cloth type rag. No old tee-shirt material (to thin) and no synthetic rags (blends of polyester/rayon/nylon) because they'll melt!
By wiping the joint, not only produces a nicer looking solder joint, but by wiping any drips/runs of melted flux will prevent it from cooroding the joint/pipe green days later.........
RW
By wiping the joint, not only produces a nicer looking solder joint, but by wiping any drips/runs of melted flux will prevent it from cooroding the joint/pipe green days later.........
RW
toolfreak said:
I have a friend who is a union plumber and have seen him sweat 100s of joints. Listen to the plumbers......he buys the wells lamont gloves by the case and uses them to wipe the joints like toolfreak says.
BEECHFRONT
Active member
ived used the rag, flux and steel wool pad they all work good.